Is the CX-5 Dip Stick Calibrated for Hot Oil temp? It would explain a lot

Now that I think of it, I seem to recall that on my first oil & filter change I added the contents of a 5 quart jug, ran the engine for a few minutes and checked it later that afternoon. The oil was at the lower dipstick mark. It took another half quart to hit the top mark
So you're saying the amount of oil between the midpoint and top mark of the dipstick is...
ONE QUARTER of one quart! 0.25 quarts.

This supports my argument that it is a completely useless waste of time to worry about precisely hitting the top mark on the dipstick at every oil change.

Especially considering the dipstick is not an accurate/precise measurement device.
 
So you're saying the amount of oil between the midpoint and top mark of the dipstick is...
ONE QUARTER of one quart! 0.25 quarts.

This supports my argument that it is a completely useless waste of time to worry about precisely hitting the top mark on the dipstick at every oil change.

Especially considering the dipstick is not an accurate/precise measurement device.
C'mon now,can I get an "AMEN"
 
So you're saying the amount of oil between the midpoint and top mark of the dipstick is...
ONE QUARTER of one quart! 0.25 quarts.

This supports my argument that it is a completely useless waste of time to worry about precisely hitting the top mark on the dipstick at every oil change.

Especially considering the dipstick is not an accurate/precise measurement device.
Actually, from mid-point to the MAX line it's 0.5 qts. It's 1 qt from the MIN to MAX lines
 
I changed the factory fill at 1000 miles and changed it again at 5000 miles. I n the engine for a few minutes and checked it later that afternoon. The oil was at the lower dipstick mark. It took another half quart to hit the top mark That was my first indication that the Mazda manual was in error.
I'll repeat the experiment upon my next oil & filter change.

I don't worry about it much but I am curious as to why the manual seems wrong. A typo? conversion error? Maybe they have some motive?
 
Actually, from mid-point to the MAX line it's 0.5 qts. It's 1 qt from the MIN to MAX lines
Not according to ole' Dwight...

"I added the contents of a 5 quart jug,
The oil was at the lower dipstick mark.
It took another half quart to hit the top mark."
 
Are we talking about specifically 2.5L turbo? But the most burning question I have is why this ain't locked yet lol
 
Are we talking about specifically 2.5L turbo? But the most burning question I have is why this ain't locked yet lol

The discussion should apply to both as the oil reading procedure between the two engine variations is the same.

The thread is still open for discussion because Steve88 hasn't replied back with what Mazda said, and nobody has reported back with what Steve88 requested (posting your oil reading 5 mins after shutdown, and posting your oil reading when the engine is cold).

So I will call Mazda corporate tomorrow to get a straight answer for ‘Is the CX-5 calibrated for hot oil or cold oil temperature.” I’d also like to make sure the GTR has a different dipstick than the non-turbo since it states it has a slightly larger capacity. If any of you have a good contact number let me know.

A quick Google search shows that the 2.5 Turbo engine uses P/N PY8W10450 for the dipstick, while the 2.5 N/A engine uses P/N PY0110450.
 
I just checked the oil level on my 2017 2.5L Mazda 6. It hasn't been turned on in two days and I always use 5qts of Mazda Moly Oil

View attachment 226159

I'll take another pic tomorrow after running around town and letting it settle for 5 min
Ok, here is the oil level after 2 hours of freeway driving and waiting 10 min. It's actually a smidge lower than the level after sitting for 2 days (pic is a few posts up). I'm guessing that this is because all of the oil hasn't flowed down yet

View attachment 226207
Although I’d already tested and verified this, but thanks to dunhillmc who verified my point again stated earlier in this thread at post #3:

“You may be thinking that when you measure the engine oil hot, the level should be higher due to the thermal expansion. But if you wait for the oil been drained back to the oil pan over-night, you also get more oil to raise the level. These 2 factors basically cancel out each other and the oil level measured in hot and cold conditions would be very similar.“

And if you measure the oil level in cold, you only need one pull to see the clear oil mark on dipstick for the watery 0W-20 oil, no wipe and re-insert the dipstick necessary!
 

I will stand on my recommendation of following the oil reading procedure in the owner's manual. I'm not willing to risk a warranty claim denial because someone on the internet said that letting the oil drain into the sump for 5 mins is "technically the same" as letting it sit overnight.
Yeah but you conveniently deleted the wording “at least” from the manual.

Says in Mazda owner’s manual:
“Turn it off and wait at least 5 minutes for the oil to return to the oil pan.“
 
Are we talking about specifically 2.5L turbo? But the most burning question I have is why this ain't locked yet lol
Just because people expressed their opinion differently and couldn’t reach an agreement and we want to lock this thread up?

At least this thread generated many posts and more traffic which is good to the website. I haven’t seen this kind of heat discussion in this community for a long time!
 
I don't worry about it much but I am curious as to why the manual seems wrong. A typo? conversion error? Maybe they have some motive?
Most people use 5 quarts instead of Mazda specified 4.8 quarts (even said this in Mazda Factory Workshop Manual) for oil change on 2.5L. This already means they don’t trust Mazda’s specs and use whatever the amount they feel comfortable.

People defending the Mazda say the fluid capacity specified is approximate. But based on my experience all vehicle I’ve owned the engine oil capacity has always been the amount to the FULL mark of the dipstick. From specified 4.8 quarts to 5.3 quarts in real-life to the FULL mark on engine oil capacity is 10.4% difference. But from specified 0.48 quarts to 0.8 quarts real-life on rear differential gear oil that’s 66.6% difference, and exact 0.48 quarts between specified value and real-life on front transfer case. I simply can‘t agree on specs which are approximate but show too many inconsistencies. A common mistake caused by these inaccurate fluid capacities is people bought 1 quart of SG1 gear oil for both front transfer case and real differential lubricant changes, and ended up they need somehow find a way to get another quart!
 
Look at this pdf from the factory service manual for oil changes on the 2.0L engine. It says: Engine oil capacity (approx. quantity)

Also, if you look in the owner's manual in the "specifications" chapter, at the beginning of the "capacities" section, it says "Capacities (Approximate Quantities)"
 

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Although I’d already tested and verified this, but thanks to dunhillmc who verified my point again stated earlier in this thread at post #3:

“You may be thinking that when you measure the engine oil hot, the level should be higher due to the thermal expansion. But if you wait for the oil been drained back to the oil pan over-night, you also get more oil to raise the level. These 2 factors basically cancel out each other and the oil level measured in hot and cold conditions would be very similar.“

And if you measure the oil level in cold, you only need one pull to see the clear oil mark on dipstick for the watery 0W-20 oil, no wipe and re-insert the dipstick necessary!

For one, the 2.5T (which is the engine being discussed) uses 5W-30 oil. Second, if you have trouble reading the dipstick, you just need better lighting.

IMO, your justifications for reading the oil level this way are miniscule at best. If your method works for you and your engine, great. But you need to understand that it may not work for others (especially when you have a 2.5NA and the conversation is regarding the 2.5T).

Keep in mind that by insisting that reading the oil level while hot and reading it after the car has been sitting overnight is the same, you are undermining Mazda and the procedures their engineers have outlined. You'd need to make a pretty convincing case for me to take your word over theirs.

Everyone is free to make their own decisions and do whatever they want, as long as they understand the potential consequences of those decisions.


Yeah but you conveniently deleted the wording “at least” from the manual.

Says in Mazda owner’s manual:
“Turn it off and wait at least 5 minutes for the oil to return to the oil pan.“

1. I wasn't quoting the manual

2. at least
Synonyms: at the minimum, at the very least, not less than

What is the point you're making here? Are you trying to say that "at least 5 mins" is the same as 5 hours?


Just because people expressed their opinion differently and couldn’t reach an agreement and we want to lock this thread up?

At least this thread generated many posts and more traffic which is good to the website. I haven’t seen this kind of heat discussion in this community for a long time!

I agree that there is nothing wrong with some healthy discussion. Those not interested in the discussion are not being forced to participate in it.

With that said, not all "heated" discussions are productive, so if/when the conversation reaches that point, moderators will act accordingly.


Most people use 5 quarts instead of Mazda specified 4.8 quarts (even said this in Mazda Factory Workshop Manual) for oil change on 2.5L. This already means they don’t trust Mazda’s specs and use whatever the amount they feel comfortable.

People defending the Mazda say the fluid capacity specified is approximate. But based on my experience all vehicle I’ve owned the engine oil capacity has always been the amount to the FULL mark of the dipstick. From specified 4.8 quarts to 5.3 quarts in real-life to the FULL mark on engine oil capacity is 10.4% difference. But from specified 0.48 quarts to 0.8 quarts real-life on rear differential gear oil that’s 66.6% difference, and exact 0.48 quarts between specified value and real-life on front transfer case. I simply can‘t agree on specs which are approximate but show too many inconsistencies. A common mistake caused by these inaccurate fluid capacities is people bought 1 quart of SG1 gear oil for both front transfer case and real differential lubricant changes, and ended up they need somehow find a way to get another quart!

Using .2 quarts more than what Mazda specifies automatically means that that person doesn't trust Mazda's specs?

Your experience may be different from others.
Mazda is not the same company as Honda or Toyota.
 
I will say that I ran into something similar with my 6 after the engine was replaced. I checked the oil and it was reading WAY over max line....then I checked another time and it was fine. In both cases the car had sat for hours. This was the first time I had ever seen this. Prior to the engine replacement, the level was just at the max line and never over.
 

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I have noticed a significant change in level depending on temperature and how long it's been off.

It is definitely an advantage to have a full sump when starting a long trip. The more oil the more thermal mass.

I just checked mine, and checked my log. Almost a year exactly and I've only driven about 3000 miles!

I guess according to the manual I'm supposed to change it anyway. It is almost clear on the dipstick. Kind of amber colored.
 
I wish I stil worked for Tesla and had a bunch of lab equipment at my disposal. I would take a walk over to the lab building with a quart of 5W-30 synthetic oil and have them pour it into a graduated cylinder. Then heat the oil to maybe 240 degrees F and measure the thermal expansion on the graduated cylinder. I'll bet it isn't enough to make much difference.
 
I wish I stil worked for Tesla and had a bunch of lab equipment at my disposal. I would take a walk over to the lab building with a quart of 5W-30 synthetic oil and have them pour it into a graduated cylinder. Then heat the oil to maybe 240 degrees F and measure the thermal expansion on the graduated cylinder. I'll bet it isn't enough to make much difference.
There is possibly data on the web.

Maybe Mazda had some reason for publishing the specs they way they did.
 
Oil temperature won't significantly affect the oil level on the dipstick. There is some thermal expansion, but the width of the oil pan cancels it out. Think of how much water it takes to raise the level in a narrow glass verses how much to raise the level in a 5 gallon bucket.
What might happen is measuring while the oil has not drained back into the pan completely, or measuring when oil has been pulled into the dipstick hole from suction of the snug fitting o-ring and getting a smear of oil giving a false measure. Personally I add 5 quarts plus 425cc's to be at the max line.
In Unobtanim's case, somehow the dealer is adding more than 5 quarts. The oil level can not reach the full mark with only 5 quarts.
 
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