Hi All. My First Post! 
After searching the forums for information on spark plugs quite a bit, I've boiled it down to three plugs that work, and several that are commonly recommended and should be avoided.
The available plugs for the Mazdaspeed 6 are:
Plug_____________ Factory Gap (in) ____ Price ea ___ Hot/Cold ____ part #
Stock OEM:
NGK Laser iridium ______ .032 ___________ ~$14 _______ 0 _______ ILTR6A-8G
Denso Iridium _________ .031 __________ ~$10 _______ -1 _______ ITV22
Denso Iridium _________ .031 ___________ ~$10 ______ -2 _______ ITV24
Anything else is Gapped Incorrectly. Adjust at your own risk
- Available on the Internet -
Denso Iridium _________ .044 ___________ ~$10 _______ 0 _______ ITV20
NGK iridium IX _________ .044 ___________ ~$14 ______ -1 _______ LTR7IX-11
NGK Laser iridium ______ .052 ____________ ~$12 _______ 0 _______ ILTR6A-13G
- Prescribed by your Local Parts Store. Don't let them sell you this junk -
Autolite Dbl Platinum __ .051 ___________ ~$6 _________ 0 _______ APP5364
Autolite XP Iridium ___ .051 ____________ ~$7 _________ 0 _______ XP5364
Pulstar Pulse __________ .025 _________ ~$25 ________ 0 ________ EF-1
What I Know:
- 1 step colder per 100 HP increase is a good rule of thumb, and is only recommended for those who drive hard and have increased the Horsepower/Boost
- A colder plug should be gapped smaller to about.28 to avoid knocking
- The Manual recommends a gap of .28-.31
- Gap should never be adjusted with a coin style tool, to avoid breaking the delicate tip.
- Tolerances for adjusting gap are only about .008 each way.
- The NGK LTR7IX-11 and Denso ITV20 are gapped at 0.44, close enough to adjust to .35, but this is almost 2x the recommended max adjustment distance, and may or may not work. This is because of stress tolerances in the metal and more importantly, the angle created when bending the tip. The anode (ground electrode) should be parallel to the tip to ensure even sparking around the perimeter of the tip directly upward. If you want to go colder, get a Denso that is already properly gapped.
- The plugs (autolite, etc) available at all three local auto supply stores are gapped to .050-.054 in. Don't even think about it.
UPDATES
So, I've since learned that the factory plug is NGK ILTR6A-8G, .032 gap
Also, NGK has some excellent documentation on their plugs. They have charts showing application for every vehicle, comparing other brands to their equivalent, and their naming convention. Just search for it.
The part number indicates the type of plug, temperature, thread size, and gap.
NGK Part naming chart
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/partnumberkey.pdf

After searching the forums for information on spark plugs quite a bit, I've boiled it down to three plugs that work, and several that are commonly recommended and should be avoided.
The available plugs for the Mazdaspeed 6 are:
Plug_____________ Factory Gap (in) ____ Price ea ___ Hot/Cold ____ part #
Stock OEM:
NGK Laser iridium ______ .032 ___________ ~$14 _______ 0 _______ ILTR6A-8G
Denso Iridium _________ .031 __________ ~$10 _______ -1 _______ ITV22
Denso Iridium _________ .031 ___________ ~$10 ______ -2 _______ ITV24
Anything else is Gapped Incorrectly. Adjust at your own risk
- Available on the Internet -
Denso Iridium _________ .044 ___________ ~$10 _______ 0 _______ ITV20
NGK iridium IX _________ .044 ___________ ~$14 ______ -1 _______ LTR7IX-11
NGK Laser iridium ______ .052 ____________ ~$12 _______ 0 _______ ILTR6A-13G
- Prescribed by your Local Parts Store. Don't let them sell you this junk -
Autolite Dbl Platinum __ .051 ___________ ~$6 _________ 0 _______ APP5364
Autolite XP Iridium ___ .051 ____________ ~$7 _________ 0 _______ XP5364
Pulstar Pulse __________ .025 _________ ~$25 ________ 0 ________ EF-1
What I Know:
- 1 step colder per 100 HP increase is a good rule of thumb, and is only recommended for those who drive hard and have increased the Horsepower/Boost
- A colder plug should be gapped smaller to about.28 to avoid knocking
- The Manual recommends a gap of .28-.31
- Gap should never be adjusted with a coin style tool, to avoid breaking the delicate tip.
- Tolerances for adjusting gap are only about .008 each way.
- The NGK LTR7IX-11 and Denso ITV20 are gapped at 0.44, close enough to adjust to .35, but this is almost 2x the recommended max adjustment distance, and may or may not work. This is because of stress tolerances in the metal and more importantly, the angle created when bending the tip. The anode (ground electrode) should be parallel to the tip to ensure even sparking around the perimeter of the tip directly upward. If you want to go colder, get a Denso that is already properly gapped.
- The plugs (autolite, etc) available at all three local auto supply stores are gapped to .050-.054 in. Don't even think about it.
UPDATES
So, I've since learned that the factory plug is NGK ILTR6A-8G, .032 gap
Also, NGK has some excellent documentation on their plugs. They have charts showing application for every vehicle, comparing other brands to their equivalent, and their naming convention. Just search for it.
The part number indicates the type of plug, temperature, thread size, and gap.
NGK Part naming chart
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/partnumberkey.pdf
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