Seeking advice for keeping aging CX-5

[Gambit05]

Hello I'm new here. Have a 2015 CX5 176K on the clock. I just put some money into it (new control arms, radiator, starter, plugs, tires, and fixed an exhaust leak. I am hoping I can drive this to 250K. The engine and transmission are still smooth and strong and it honestly still feels like the day I bought it (CPO with 26K)

Do I have too much faith, I know some drive for quite a whiles. reports of over 300K on some.

I live in New England so rusting is problematic when I do my own repairs - but I manage. I don't beat on it, I use Mobile 1 synthetic high mileage oil and filters changing every 7K or so.

My concern is I haven't really followed the service manual or used the dealership. So I have possibly missed some key things. I have a K & M air filter installed. I also just recently changed the MAF sensor as I accidentally gunked it up with the air filter oil by applying too much. I picked one from a salvage yard and that fixed my CEL, it was very clean and no issues running it so I believe its fine. I also cleaned the throttle body at the same time.

I am wondering what else I should consider as a preventative? I am thinking the differential fluids at a minimum should be done soon as they have never been changed. If you were me, what would you recommend if planning to keep this vehicle alive?

Side note, shopping for a car for my wife. We tested a 2023 CX-50 today, the nicest trim. I liked it but it you could definitely feel the wheels and the interior felt tight as in you are close to the dashboard, cup holder in an odd spot. The turbo felt nice though! We have a hold on a 21' Tiguan which drove very nice but VW gives me pause in general, I got comfortable with it but the wife got cold feet as I was researching different issues. She seems to have her heart on a newer Forester, but in my mind Subaru has also gone downhill. I'm regretting not trying a newer model CX-5 while were at the dealer. She really loved the CX-70 for all the wrong reasons (paint color, LOL) but that just looked huge to me in the showroom which isn't my speed. Not to mention that's not really in our budget, the CX 70.

I am glad to have found this forum, it will be a helpful resource for me moving forward to hopefully keep my CX-5 going for another 2-3 years.

TY

 

[wlong01]

What about transmission fluid? Has it ever been changed?
Also transfer case fluid.

 

[Gambit05]

No, neither has been changed.

 

[Lazy2.5]

I have a 2015 Mazda 6 with over 200k miles on it.

Yes, you can very likely to expect yours to last as long as, if not longer 250k miles.

Transmission service (Pan dropped, cleaned along with magnet, new filter(strainer), clean fluid is essential.

Check your belts. They should not be dry or cracked. They should spin straight and smooth with the engine running. Listen for belt noise on a cold start.

Check the belt tensioner for signs of excessive oil leaking (Some oil sweating I don't think is that serious.)

Those are the two essentials, esp. at your mileage.

 

[Gambit05]

Thank Lazy 2.5. I will look into transmission service, and differentials front/back. I assume transfer case is the front. And will also have the belts looked over. Still open to more suggestions but this puts me more at ease moving forward.

 

[Gambit05]

Differentials I am comfortable doing myself, just not sure how to get rid of the used oil. The transmission I would defer to the dealer I think, but hopefully they are thorough as I know to properly clean the pan/magnet and put new seals is a bit involved.

 

[Lazy2.5]

The transmission I would defer to the dealer I think,

Do not.

but hopefully they are thorough

They are not.

as I know to properly clean the pan/magnet and put new seals is a bit involved.

If you choose not to do it yourself, I highly recommend a transmission shop, but any good mechanic should agree to do it.

a Drain and fill is not enough. I highly recommend that the transmission pan is dropped.

Mazda 6 GJ ATX Transmission Pan & Filter Replacement!

Turns out these cars have a Metal transmission pan! For starters you got a little spot in the corner for your nice big pan magnet, which you can see at the top of the pan. Mileage was at around 103,000 miles when the service was done. I don't think the bottom of the pan looks too dirty for the...

www.mazda6club.com

 

[Lazy2.5]

Thank Lazy 2.5. I will look into differentials front/back. I assume transfer case is the front.

Someone else will have to chime in regarding the AWD system on the CX-5.

will also have the belts looked over.

You can easily do so yourself. the belts, and the tensioner are clearly visible from the passenger side of the vehicle, in the engine bay.

Still open to more suggestions but this puts me more at ease moving forward.

So long as all your suspension components are tight, be sure to check your rear strut mounts. You should be able to clearly seem them at the top of each rear strut. Ensure they are not excessively corroded, loose or developing cracks.

That's all I can think of now. You can be rest assured.

Nearly 335k KM and counting on my 6.

 

[7eregrine]

I know we like to bash dealerships here...and pretty much every car forum...but to say "No dealer can be trusted with a tranny flush" is a bit much. I would trust my dealer to do this.

 

[Lazy2.5]

I know we like to bash dealerships here...and pretty much every car forum...but to say "No dealer can be trusted with a tranny flush" is a bit much. I would trust my dealer to do this.

As per my understanding, the 6 speed auto found in these cars does not even have transmission cooler lines which would be necessary to perform a full flush.

Anyone can do a drain and fill, but that is not a full and sufficient service for a higher mileage transmission. I have heard of a Mazda dealer agreeing to do a pan drop once, and even then, I would not trust their technicians to do it right, and it was for an absurd price.

 

[Gambit05]

I would attempt the pan drop myself, I saw a very good video detailing. It does look like it would take some prep and the measuring of the new fluid vs what you were able to pull out is kind of involved. It would be easier with a lift but I can see how this would tie up a mechanics shop for awhile. I'd also like to check the dipstick, not sure how true but if the fluid is in really rough shape sometimes its better to leave it as its the only thing not causing slippage at that point. Hopefully that is not the case for me.

 

[kendel7]

I know we like to bash dealerships here...and pretty much every car forum...but to say "No dealer can be trusted with a tranny flush" is a bit much. I would trust my dealer to do this.

I also! I'm considering a trans fluid change (2016, 80K) and would consider a dealer to do it.

 

[Lazy2.5]

I would attempt the pan drop myself, I saw a very good video detailing. It does look like it would take some prep and the measuring of the new fluid vs what you were able to pull out is kind of involved. It would be easier with a lift but I can see how this would tie up a mechanics shop for awhile.

It's not that difficult, mechanic who did the original pan drop on my car (From the post on mazda6forums) Had it done in about an hour. It's not that difficult, but it is something that I personally would not DIY.

I'd also like to check the dipstick, not sure how true but if the fluid is in really rough shape

It will be dirty.

sometimes its better to leave it as its the only thing not causing slippage at that point. Hopefully that is not the case for me.

If it was, you would know!

Amazingly, the guy with the 400k mile Mazda 6 has never serviced his transmission, and claims it is still in "good shape." Absolutely never go for this long with no transmission servicing, (Most transmissions would have been dead at less than half that mileage) But this is a true testament to the durability of our 6 speed auto's and proof that it's not too late to drop the pan.

It is imperative for the longevity and smooth operation of your transmission and would be at the very top of my list if I were to take ownership of a higher mileage skyactiv with no prior transmission service history.

For what it's worth, the trans in my 6 has had 4 pan drops, full transmission services and is in great shape.

 

[7eregrine]

I am a big believer in long life tranny fluids. Not lifetime, of course not. I love how you say he "claims his transmission is in good shape"... I'm sure he knows. I personally know many examples of very old tranny fluids and I've seen countless examples online. Here's the thing about tranny fluid and why I believe EVERY car company today says not to change it unless a) you tow or B) its acting up: bad trans fluid isn't going to explode your transmission. Its not like it will be fine one day and then dead the next and your mechanic says ..."Yep, it was because the transmission fluid got too old"... Failing tranny fluid is VERY symptomatic. Very very. Your trans WILL start to slip and miss letting you know WELL in advance that something is wrong.

MY 16 CX5 is also at 80K @kendel7 ...I am not considering a change yet. And I do and have taken immaculate car of this car. I'm waiting until at least 100K.

 

[Lazy2.5]

I love how you say he "claims his transmission is in good shape"

lol.

... I'm sure he knows.

Right? Bro thought his transmission is sealed and cannot be serviced.

I am a big believer in long life tranny fluids. Not lifetime, of course not. I personally know many examples of very old tranny fluids and I've seen countless examples online. Here's the thing about tranny fluid and why I believe EVERY car company today says not to change it unless a) you tow or B) its acting up: bad trans fluid isn't going to explode your transmission. Its not like it will be fine one day and then dead the next and your mechanic says ..."Yep, it was because the transmission fluid got too old"... Failing tranny fluid is VERY symptomatic. Very very. Your trans WILL start to slip and miss letting you know WELL in advance that something is wrong.

I generally agree that the transmission fluid in itself typically is not the cause of transmission wear and damage. When the transmission is breaking in, in particular, and throughout the life of said transmission, fine debris will accumulate from the following sources:

• Planetary Gearsets: The primary source of fine metal shavings. They consist of multiple gears (sun gear, planet gears, ring gear) that are constantly meshing and rotating under load. Even with proper lubrication, there's always a microscopic amount of friction and wear between these moving metal surfaces.
• Other Hard Parts: Besides planetary gears, other hard metal components like bearings (roller bearings, needle bearings), splines, and thrust washers (which can be metal or plastic, but metal ones will wear) will also contribute tiny metallic particles as they wear over time.
• Clutch Packs (Friction Material): While not metal shavings, clutch packs are a significant source of debris in automatic transmissions. As the friction plates engage, a fine powder of friction material (which can be dark and gritty) is shed. This also accumulates in the pan and filter.

The bottom of our transmission pans have a strainer. It plays a crucial role in separating this fine debris from crucial transmission components and the fluid circulating through it. This sludge material will first begin collecting on the magnet. Then, it will sit at the bottom of the pan. Eventually enough of it will accumulate to make its way past the strainer and contaminate your transmission fluid. Allow this process to continue, and eventually you will see transmission wear, then damage, then complete failure.

Therefore, you cannot simply deduce your transmissions condition as "fine" without seeing what the bottom of your pan looks like.

The pan in my AT was dropped at just over 160,000KM. The bottom of the pan and fluid was dirty, not enough to begin placing undue stress onto the transmission,(I think.) but not far off either.


Regarding manufacturer suggestion not to service your transmission. What do people do when their transmissions act up? Bring it to the dealer. What does the dealer say? thousands of dollars for a new transmission.

They pull yours out, refurbish it, swap another refurbished transmission in from another unsuspecting customer, make thousands of dollars off their "recommendation."

BMW recommends that the fluid is lifetime. Sure it is, as long as you don't drive it! ZF, the manufacturer for nearly all of BMW's transmissions on the other hand states: "ZF recommends a oil change at regular intervals for its transmissions, especially In operating conditions with high temperatures and loads, or with unknown vehicle use in the past."


A failing transmission (which, if not caused by a defect, will often be due to contaminated fluid and will not begin to show symptoms "in advance" of something going wrong. In this case, it will begin happening after you have driven for long enough with significantly contaminated and degraded transmission fluid.

In short, and not to sound like a broken record here, but I reiterate that these pans can and should be dropped for very good reason. If you want to know what condition your transmission is in, this is non negotiable. Simply doing regular transmission fluid flush and changes will not clean out the gunk sitting at the bottom of your pan.

 

[Gambit05]

Does anyone have any idea how much OEM transmission fluid I need to obtain from the dealer for my service tech to replace the fluid after dropping the pan? I was thinking about 5 quarts based on the YouTube video but it appears that that was is a smaller vehicle. I believe a good amount of the overall system fluid stays in the gear assembly when performing this service.

 

[Gambit05]

Maybe its a bit more than that.

 

[GFrosty]

Does anyone have any idea how much OEM transmission fluid I need to obtain from the dealer for my service tech to replace the fluid after dropping the pan?

From the 2015 Mazda CX-5 Owners Manual @ Section 9-4 Specifications:

• Manual transaxle oil API Service GL-4 / SAE 75W-80
• Automatic transaxle fluid Mazda Genuine ATF FZ
• Transfer case oil API Service GL-5 / SAE 80W-90
• Rear differential oil API Service GL-5 / SAE 80W-90
• 
  
• Manual transaxle oil 1.65 L (1.74 US qt, 1.45 Imp qt)
• Automatic transaxle fluid 7.8 L (8.2 US qt, 6.9 Imp qt)
• Transfer case oil 0.45 L (0.48 US qt, 0.40 Imp qt)
• Rear differential oil 0.45 L (0.48 US qt, 0.40 Imp qt)

 

[Eazeeette]

Go for a overhaul.

 

[Lazy2.5]

Does anyone have any idea how much OEM transmission fluid I need to obtain from the dealer for my service tech to replace the fluid after dropping the pan? I was thinking about 5 quarts based on the YouTube video but it appears that that was is a smaller vehicle. I believe a good amount of the overall system fluid stays in the gear assembly when performing this service.

Yes 5 quarts should cover it. Possibly 4.