Has Anyone Had Their Fuel Pump/Cover Leak?

[CheeseHelmet]

I personally don't have this problem...yet...but great read.

I had been chasing a P0300 for a few months, and was starting to think it was fuel filter/pump/sending unit related...but i never had any gas smell inside the car, and only outside when the missing started when idling (it ended up being a bad coil, despite numerous 'tests' that it checked out fine with). Anyway though, i looked at the infamous top of this stuff...and the screws are so corroded and rusted that it felt as if i could simply pick them off with my finger...but everything is perfectly dry. i'm not one to usually fix things before they are broken, but considering the rust under there is something that will only get worse...i'd love to do something about it so that when i finally do start leaking gas, its a quick job to fix.

so those of you with rusted screw heads...I've read all the posts in this thread, and am a little confused. I can get access to an impact driver, or 'grab it' screw extractor relatively easy. My questions are more for those that ended up having to chisel or drill out the screw heads (as i'm fairly certain thats what i'll be faced with). You say the studs do not extend into the actual tank? Like i said, it seemed as if i could let my finger nail grow for a sick ass month, and just pop the heads off with that, leaving a stud underneath. Was it easy to grab the studs with vice grips or something to back it out? And is there no threat of dropping the studs into the exposed tank after the assembly is removed?

I've got a laundry list of stuff to do to the car over the winter (it doesn't get driven much then anyway), so i'll try the pb blaster daily routine for a week or so...and try the normal way, just trying to get a heads up on what to do if that doesn't work...as again, i'm pretty sure it won't be that easy as simply using an impact driver. honestly i can't see how those screws are even holding it in place currently...

To get those screws out, I'd recommend the method I used (with a bit of modification). For a week before you do it, every day or two spray the screws with PB blaster, brush away any loose rust, and tap the heads of the screws with a hammer and a #2 philips.

Then I'd just use a grab-it screw extractor to remove them all. If you come across one that's really bad, chisel the head off and remove the rest of it with a pair of vice grips (you'll have about 5-6mm to grab onto). Inside the tank the threads should still be in decent shape, you shouldn't need to do any drilling.

 

[Installshield 2]

Sounds good man, thanks. As i said, nothing is wrong so far...so not sure when i'll do this just yet...but its only going to get worse, and the leaking is bound to happen sooner or later. Car nearly has 155,000 miles haha.

 

[MTec007]

I'm facing this very problem now. I went ahead and ordered the McMaster-Carr stainless screws. No amount of PB Blaster will free the rusty mess I'm facing. I've sourced the fuel filter and tank seal on rock auto, I guess I will be visiting the dealer for the plate as I cannot find one anywhere online, and the McParts store for an o-ring. Can anyone report that the "coffee-can-lid gasket" actually made a difference?

Wish me luck.

 

[CheeseHelmet]

Can anyone report that the "coffee-can-lid gasket" actually made a difference?

What are you talking about? A literal coffee can lid as a gasket? If so, then the answer is no...

 

[MTec007]

I am referring to people mentioning using a coffee can lid between the plate and the top side of the fuel filter body, to prevent this issue from happening again, not between the bottom of the fuel filter body and the tank, my apologies.

 

[njaremka]

I am referring to people mentioning using a coffee can lid between the plate and the top side of the fuel filter body, to prevent this issue from happening again, not between the bottom of the fuel filter body and the tank, my apologies.

adding an extra gasket in that area won't have any impact. its the actual housing that develops a leak over time, not the gasket. replace the housing (the white piece that the fuel lines connect to), and you should be all set.

 

[MTec007]

The reason I asked was because it seems a bit like snake oil to me. was just curious if there were any positive results any way.

 

[Rudyvardon]

All the info you need is in the second post in this thread: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...p-Cover-Leak&p=4049945&viewfull=1#post4049945

Thanks for the reply, I did follow up and am still in a fog ..... I know I need the metal cap with screws and also the plastic plat that goes next to it.
I have been trying to locate replacement from the junk-yards. So far no luck.
I guess I will pull the unit apart and take the defective parts to one of the dealers and try to get replacements.
Unless someone knows a better route.
Thanks.

 

[Rudyvardon]

Could you give me a lead on where I might be able to get a used one too.

 

[CheeseHelmet]

^Get new parts, any used stuff you find will be in a similar rusty/rotten state. You can get everything you need from Mazda and it'll be less than $100.

 

[Rudyvardon]

Thanks. I like the idea of safe and not sorry. Next time the weather breaks I will pull it apart and take to a dealer to get the parts.

 

[JesseM]

The white cap on the housing of my sending unit has cracked and leaks fuel. I just bought the darn thing, 2003 Protege5. The dealer wanted $485 for an entire fuel sending unit, then $280 for just the plastic housing which is all I need. Could someone please tell me if the part GY01-13-ZE0 is just the black plastic housing under the white cap, or does it include the white cap also?

 

[pcb]

Rock Auto has a replacement "Fuel Filter" which is just the housing piece that cracks it doesn't include the pump. It is $27.04 plus shipping. I'm pretty sure this is the part that all of us will eventually need.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?a=G-mazda

BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0433010

 

[mtnbiker26]

The white cap on the housing of my sending unit has cracked and leaks fuel. I just bought the darn thing, 2003 Protege5. The dealer wanted $485 for an entire fuel sending unit, then $280 for just the plastic housing which is all I need. Could someone please tell me if the part GY01-13-ZE0 is just the black plastic housing under the white cap, or does it include the white cap also?

It's all one piece...not a separate cap and housing. The white part is bonded to the black part. The fuel pump enters from the bottom. Here's the photo from Rockauto:

 

[JesseM]

Thanks for the replies! The thing is I called Rockauto and she said its just the paper fuel filter that goes in the housing, not the housing itself. She said they had that picture because it contains the filter, but does not come with the housing. The girl on the phone could have just been clueless though.

What gets me is why is it called the fuel filter at rock auto for 27$ (which is also what the mazda dealership also sells just the filter for), yet elsewhere its called the housing/body (which is more appropriate) and for 70 bucks?https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned), its actually called the body, not the filter. And the mazdea dealership wants 280$ for the body/housing, so that compared to 27$ is really strange because thats a hugeee price difference.

Has anyone actually ordered that specific part from rockauto? Maybe I'll just have to take a risk and order it , the price seems almost too good to be true

 

[BRIAN_MP5T]

I called Rockauto and she said its just the paper fuel filter that goes in the housing, not the housing itself.

"She" is misinformed.

 

[rit14623]

Thanks for the replies! The thing is I called Rockauto and she said its just the paper fuel filter that goes in the housing, not the housing itself. She said they had that picture because it contains the filter, but does not come with the housing. The girl on the phone could have just been clueless though.

What gets me is why is it called the fuel filter at rock auto for 27$ (which is also what the mazda dealership also sells just the filter for), yet elsewhere its called the housing/body (which is more appropriate) and for 70 bucks?https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned), its actually called the body, not the filter. And the mazdea dealership wants 280$ for the body/housing, so that compared to 27$ is really strange because thats a hugeee price difference.

Has anyone actually ordered that specific part from rockauto? Maybe I'll just have to take a risk and order it , the price seems almost too good to be true

Yes, I just bought that part last week from rockauto. The phone operator does not know what she was talking about.
When you order that $27 part, you get the four items you see in that image (counter-clockwise order from the top): 1. the big black and white housing, 2. the white cap that goes on the bottom, 3. a rubber thing that seats the low-pressure fuel strainer between the fuel pump and the white cap, and 4. a rubber grommet that goes on top the fuel pump.

Within the black housing is the high-pressure fuel filter material. I bought the low-pressure fuel strainer too. That's a cheap part.

Oh yeah, I also had problems with the Phillips screws just like the OP and four of them were rusted and got stripped. I used the Grabit tool to remove those screws. It takes M4-.7 screws. I couldn't find short ones that were just like the original ones so I bought 10mm length ones and used washers to shorten the length.

 

[JesseM]

I freaking love you all. THANK YOU! I will probably need new screws also, and I was having trouble finding out what to replace them with.

edit: and **** dealerships. $280 is highway robbery. They wanted almost $700 total to fix it, and a second shop that was highly recommended wanted to charge me $500. Do honest repair garages even exist anymore?

 

[bikingpro5]

I freaking love you all. THANK YOU! I will probably need new screws also, and I was having trouble finding out what to replace them with.

edit: and **** dealerships. $280 is highway robbery. They wanted almost $700 total to fix it, and a second shop that was highly recommended wanted to charge me $500. Do honest repair garages even exist anymore?

LMK if you need a hand at all, I work in Fredericton and have replaced the same part already myself as well as a few others.

 

[JesseM]

Awesome thanks!! I'll see if these screws give me a hard time.