The color of oil is not a good indicator of how much life is left in it. Getting darker doesn't mean it's necessarily breaking down. It just means there's most likely carbon in suspension and it's doing its job.
The color of oil is not a good indicator of how much life is left in it. Getting darker doesn't mean it's necessarily breaking down. It just means there's most likely carbon in suspension and it's doing its job.
i didn't mean that it was time to be changed just because it got dark ...
i just did a comparison and the mobile 1 was many shades darker at the same mileage as the pp ... i don't think that just because the oil is darker it is working better ... to me i thought it could be creating more shearing wear and tear or less resistents to burn off from vascosity breakdown and fuel dilution.
I have heard many good things about the PP, but have stuck with M1 since I have heard the rumors that Penzoil causes sludge/wax build up or used to. I have had a few cars go for a very long time on M1.
According to penzoil's site, the do use parafins in their products. I know some parafin products do have the ability to cause a wax like build up. The are very popular in the exterior paint industry where sometimes this is desired. Has anyone had this issue with the PP?
sorry op for tread jacking .... this discussing is kinda dragging on .. but its interesting.
oil was not compared at time of change .... said in my previous post it was checked at 1000 miles for both.
also in the other post it was said that its carbon and blow-by from combustion, wouldn't that also include some fuel in that blow-by?
fuel in oil = fuel dilution = break down in viscosity, no?
break down in viscosity = more wear and tear = more s*** floating around/burn off
and i know without an oil analyses, you will not know ...
sorry op for tread jacking .... this discussing is kinda dragging on .. but its interesting.
oil was not compared at time of change .... said in my previous post it was checked at 1000 miles for both.
also in the other post it was said that its carbon and blow-by from combustion, wouldn't that also include some fuel in that blow-by?
fuel in oil = fuel dilution = break down in viscosity, no?
break down in viscosity = more wear and tear = more s*** floating around/burn off
and i know without an oil analyses, you will not know ...
My opinion is buy the cheapest stuff that gets the best reviews based on third party analysis.
sorry op for tread jacking .... this discussing is kinda dragging on .. but its interesting.
I'm still not convinced we've proven that this fuel dilution is a consistant problem with this motor. I've seen quite a few oil analysis from MS3's, MS6's and CX7's over at BITOG that would show otherwise (all <1.0%). The few that did show it being a problem had owners who had admitted being hard on the car. Constant stop and go, short distance commuting. These conditions being hard on oil are common to every other car on the road, not just ours. Being a high performance turbocharged motor compounds the issue by shearing oil down a weight (or two) from flowing through a turbo that's heating up well over the highest flashpoints of even the best synthetics. Most analysis show that a 5W-30 is closer to a 0W-20 by 5,000 miles in this motor with fuel dilution <1.0%, so how else can this happen? Heat. The only way to deal with this issue is to change the oil more frequently, which for some people who don't drive very much is probably the best option, or use a heavier oil, ie: a 5 or 10W-40. The Australians' owners manual for the MS3 shows being able to use a 10W-40 for this car. We don't have this option. Why? Fuel and emissions standards our cars in this country have to meet, which is why you see thinner and thinner oils being used and marketed. Mobil has 0W-20 synthetics on the shelves claiming they save gas. You might as well pour water into your motor.
From looking at UOD's over at BITOG, PP seems to be a great oil for the price. Walmart's got the 5 quart jugs for $22 (they were $19 a week or so ago). I'm still a firm believer that as long as you change your oil at intervals that work for you and your motor (and this really can't be determined without analysis), you can take any of the brand named oils off the shelf, whether it be M1, Castrol Syntec, PP, Valvoline, Quaker, etc and use them for 100,000+ miles without an oil related failure. Lots of people lose sleep over picking brand X over brand Z because of what they've heard here or there. Chances are, you will have sold this car long before your motor suffered from failure attributed to the brand of oil you used. My opinion is buy the cheapest stuff that gets the best reviews based on third party analysis.
So I would like to start the rumor that using M1 will definitely get you laid...
