What have you done to your MSP today?

No that's the shift selector rod, it's the other bar that bolts to the transmission itself. It doesn't move it just holds the shifter still so it can actuate the other rod to shift gears.
 
hornsfan, is this something under the console or under the car? Sorry for the newbie question. A pic would be awesome.

edit: Is this what you're referring to?

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Are those the CS bushings ? I have the 3rd link kit in the MX3 and looks similar besides the bronze oil bushings..?
 
Are those the CS bushings ? I have the 3rd link kit in the MX3 and looks similar besides the bronze oil bushings..?

No idea. I got the photo off the net. Looks like a kit from Ford (or is that part no just for the bolt??)

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There's also this kit from Kia.

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If it's a BP flywheel for a Miata or early Protege I am not certain that it will work. I have never used one but I would say find an FS flywheel to be safe.
 
I checked and my stock flywheel says FS01 on it, and the blocks with the studs where the clutch bolts on don't seem as tall as the BP flywheel.

Today I bled the clutch in 1574, the pedal is slow to retract and has to be pumped up to get adequate pressure. It helped some but it is still too soft. Going to try to vacuum bleed it and then replace the slave and master if it still is soft. Need to go to the JY to find a 'controller' for the rear defroster, whatever is mounted to the stock sub box bracket that is missing in #1574. I purchased a non-cracked Callaway manifold that I plan to install in the car, then I may replace the AC compressor and the car will be ready to sell. I bought a clothes steamer at goodwill for $7 to remove the purple window tint on the rear. Side windows came off easily in one piece but the rear window has given me trouble. Going to try ammonia to eat the adhesive and get the bottom layer of tint off without using a scraper.
 
I checked and my stock flywheel says FS01 on it, and the blocks with the studs where the clutch bolts on don't seem as tall as the BP flywheel.

Today I bled the clutch in 1574, the pedal is slow to retract and has to be pumped up to get adequate pressure. It helped some but it is still too soft. Going to try to vacuum bleed it and then replace the slave and master if it still is soft. Need to go to the JY to find a 'controller' for the rear defroster, whatever is mounted to the stock sub box bracket that is missing in #1574. I purchased a non-cracked Callaway manifold that I plan to install in the car, then I may replace the AC compressor and the car will be ready to sell. I bought a clothes steamer at goodwill for $7 to remove the purple window tint on the rear. Side windows came off easily in one piece but the rear window has given me trouble. Going to try ammonia to eat the adhesive and get the bottom layer of tint off without using a scraper.
My tint guy said use ammonia window cleaner like you said. Also he said they use ss razor and stainless steel wool. Because ss will not scratch the glass.

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thanks for the info. you selling the stock flywheel by any chance?
I have two stock flywheels in my garage I don't plan on ever using. You can have it, the only issue is shipping a 21lb. Flywheel may be expensive.
My tint guy said use ammonia window cleaner like you said. Also he said they use ss razor and stainless steel wool. Because ss will not scratch the glass.

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Cool, I was planning to use a credit card or plastic scraper. Don't want to damage the defroster lines.
 
I have two stock flywheels in my garage I don't plan on ever using. You can have it, the only issue is shipping a 21lb. Flywheel may be expensive.

Cool, I was planning to use a credit card or plastic scraper. Don't want to damage the defroster lines.
You do need to take care with them. But I was successful they still work.

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I have two stock flywheels in my garage I don't plan on ever using. You can have it, the only issue is shipping a 21lb. Flywheel may be expensive.

yeah, i know. they're some heavy sob's. let me look up usps priority flat rate boxes after work to see if it would fit in one of those. are you running the fidanza in both of your msp's?
 
No just in the forged one. One of the replacement transmissions I bought had the flywheel and stock clutch in it still. The clutch is probably no good, it has 99k miles on it. You can have that too if you want it.
 
My dad has a membership to Harris Hill Raceway which is a track south of Austin. I have been out there several times but we went out today for a track day. I brought my forged MSP and he had the Bullitt. It's amazing how well that car handles with the full aftermarket suspension and slicks all around, the grip is insane. My MSP is fast on that track as well, even with the really old and worn G Force Sport tires I have had for about 3 years now. My Corksport muffler came loose, mostly because I had the rear hangers rigged with hose clamps to help drop the muffler down so it wouldn't interfere with the rear lip. I purchased some 12mm polyurethane exhaust hangers for a Subaru that are a lot longer than the stock hangers, originally I thought they wouldn't fit but I installed them tonight when I got home and they fit perfectly and lowered the muffler enough to clear the bumper and lip. It overheated too, must have had air in the cooling system. I will flush and burp the system tomorrow and hope it fixes it. I have never had a problem with the car overheating in the past.

And for #1574 I went ahead and ordered a new Exedy clutch master and clutch slave. Both parts were about $30 shipped total, and they both have specific part numbers only for the MSP so I am assuming the master has the delay valve like the OEM part and the slave has a one-way valve like the original.
 
whats this delay valve in the master and one way valve in the slave for? driving both msp and non msps, they both feel the same?
 
I guess the delay is to keep from shocking the drivetrain too much when the clutch is dumped. I'm not really sure why they did that but that makes the most sense to me. Not sure what the one-way valve is for.
 
found a insane good deal on a local running driving msp. looks like ill be able to do a driveline swap, restore my interior and get some good plastics for my wifes es all at the same time for obscene low price. if the engine in it is pretty good, ill start tearing my original engine and trans down for a rebuild shortly.
seems like i have one of the very few rust free proteges around.. i had wanted to buy this other car as a cheap daily to save my yellow one from rusting on the highway commute, but but meh. might as well enjoy it.
 
Well, two things...

I was told by someone that knows the new owner of my car that it was seen sitting behind their barn...

I received registration renewal in the mail Saturday for it.... You know what that means? She hasn't registered or titled it yet... They probably ignored the leaking AWR pan that I warned them repeatedly about that they were fixing the weekend they bought it and still hadn't a month later.. "Oh, it doesn't leak that bad!" Yes, yes it does. I actually was trying to hold off a day selling it to them so I could get it off and fix it, but she couldn't wait...

Only good thing is that it may give me an opportunity to purchase it back in the future for cheap...
 
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