Oil Choice, oil consumption

When changing oil do you guys fill up the new filter or install it dry/almost dry? I fill up the filter at least half way then pour entire 5 quart bottle in a 2.5l engine to reach max line...........about 4.8 on a 2.0l to get to max line. Levels check after running to grocer store and back.
Before installation, I pre-fill dry canister-type oil filter used on my CX-5 with fresh oil too just because I can. Other vehicles I have owned the canister-type oil filter has always been horizontally mounted and doing so is not feasible. Of course my BMW 528i uses more environmental-friendly cartridge-type oil filter and there’s no way to pre-fill the oil even thought it’s vertically installed.

Based on capacity specs the capacity of the OEM oil filter is 0.2 L / 0.2~0.3 US quart. So you used 5.2 quarts on 2.5L and 5.0 quarts of oil on 2.0L to reach the Full mark on dipstick for your oil change.

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My last change, just a few weeks ago, I filled the filter with some Pennzoil Platinum 0w-40 that I had leftover from a previous change. Then I put about 4.75 quarts in. It puts the oil level just under the full mark.
I always pour some in the filter, let it sit, then add some more.
Just for clarification, I believe you have a 2.0L on your 2016.5 CX-5 Sport 6MT, and the specified oil capacity with oil change is 4.4 quarts, and you put in about 0.2 + 4.75 = 4.95 quarts to get to the Max mark of the dipstick.
 
I pre-fill my filter mostly so it is easy to dab my finger into the oil spilled on the metal face to use as the o-ring lube. I don't prefill it to the point that it could spill out if I tip the filter.
 
I pre-fill my filter mostly so it is easy to dab my finger into the oil spilled on the metal face to use as the o-ring lube. I don't prefill it to the point that it could spill out if I tip the filter.
One nice feature on OEM Japanese Tokyo Roki and Thai Denso oil filters not found on OEM Value Product oil filter and after-market oil filters is both o-ring gaskets are pre-lubed with grease.
 
I also make a note to give the bottle/s a good shake for maybe 10 seconds or so. Some of the additives (we pay for) end up on the bottom over time.

Speaking of additives have you guys switched over to high mileage formulations yet?
 
I also make a note to give the bottle/s a good shake for maybe 10 seconds or so. Some of the additives (we pay for) end up on the bottom over time.

Speaking of additives have you guys switched over to high mileage formulations yet?
High mileage oil? My CX-5 still has long way to go at 42K miles ⋯
 
In the CX5, it is NOT simple. Nor is it easy to check. Also, if it has issues, you will get some serious SES lightage on the dash.

That is unfortunate, but the system is a common source of consumption-related trouble. Separately, if the lights on the dash were a reliable troubleshooting tool, then threads like this would not happen because the dash would always indicate all problems, and do so correctly.
(-;
 
Just for clarification, I believe you have a 2.0L on your 2016.5 CX-5 Sport 6MT, and the specified oil capacity with oil change is 4.4 quarts, and you put in about 0.2 + 4.75 = 4.95 quarts to get to the Max mark of the dipstick.
I checked the jug of 5w-30 Pennzoil and there is about a cup left.

I might as well pour it in even if it goes slightly over.
 
Just an update. I seemed to be losing an excessive amount over the past year especially considering my reduced driving for the year being work from home since March 10th. Seems my engine oil pan needs a new gasket. Was gearing up to do my oil change and when I took the plastic cover off and the pan was extremely dirty with oil. Took it in to a shop to confirm suspicions, and they agree that I need a new gasket. Paying a shop to redo that as that is not a job I felt comfortable doing with the silicon gasket maker or whatever.

I never did see any oil stains in the garage floor though, so not sure what's up with that.
 
Just an update. I seemed to be losing an excessive amount over the past year especially considering my reduced driving for the year being work from home since March 10th. Seems my engine oil pan needs a new gasket. Was gearing up to do my oil change and when I took the plastic cover off and the pan was extremely dirty with oil. Took it in to a shop to confirm suspicions, and they agree that I need a new gasket. Paying a shop to redo that as that is not a job I felt comfortable doing with the silicon gasket maker or whatever.

I never did see any oil stains in the garage floor though, so not sure what's up with that.
Yeah, some people might wait til it does drip on the floor.

There are some other leak points on Skyactive engines I've seen on this forum.

Have you considered using a High Mileage type oil for 5 - 10 k miles?
They have seal conditioners that might help.
 
Just an update. I seemed to be losing an excessive amount over the past year especially considering my reduced driving for the year being work from home since March 10th. Seems my engine oil pan needs a new gasket. Was gearing up to do my oil change and when I took the plastic cover off and the pan was extremely dirty with oil. Took it in to a shop to confirm suspicions, and they agree that I need a new gasket. Paying a shop to redo that as that is not a job I felt comfortable doing with the silicon gasket maker or whatever.

I never did see any oil stains in the garage floor though, so not sure what's up with that.
If you haven't seen any oil dripping down to the floor, your oil leak can't be too severe. How much oil did you see on the belly pan? Most oil consumed should be burned. Like Mazdiod2 said, there're more possible oil leak locations than just the oil pan. I'd try to re-torque the bolts on oil pan in proper sequence before trying to re-apply silicon sealant on the oil pan as I believe those bolts most likely are loose. This's something you can do by investing a cheap ¼ torque wrench (74 ~ 97 in-lbf) from Harbor Freight Tools and DIY. Switching to High Mileage 5W-30 oil is also recommended.

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Thanks for those spec Yrwei. I do have a torque wrench from Harbor Freight. I used it for spark plugs but also use it to properly torque drain plugs (oil, transmission).

I have been using 5w30, but hadn't tried high mileage version. Since I already bought the oil, will try that next go around.

Shop already redid the pan/gasket. So I guess we'll see going forward what happens.

I'll be monitoring more closely now and am going to check those bolts for proper torque when I pick my car up today.
 
I’d be careful using a torque wrench suitable for oil drain bolts on oil pan bolts. At best, you’ll be near the lower limit of the torque range where accuracy is poor. To cover most automotive tasks, you really need three torque wrenches.

- Mark
 
I’d be careful using a torque wrench suitable for oil drain bolts on oil pan bolts. At best, you’ll be near the lower limit of the torque range where accuracy is poor. To cover most automotive tasks, you really need three torque wrenches.

- Mark
Checked specs on those $11.99 (Black Friday sale price) torque wrenches from Harbor Freight Tools. ⅜” torque wrench provides a range from 5 ~ 80 ft-lbs. and ¼” torque wrench provides a range from 20 ~ 200 in-lbs. The torque on oil pan bolt is 74 ~ 97 in-lbf (6.2 ~ 8.1 ft-lbf) which is within the range of HFT’s ⅜” torque wrench. It’s indeed near the lower limit of the ⅜” torque wrench. I agree using a ¼” torque wrench is advised for oil pan bolts because it’s easy to over-torque the oil pan bolts with ⅜” torque wrench which may cross the thread or damage the cylinder block.
 
So far so good. Been a month. Took the cover off and do not see any oil on the pan.

In case you are wondering I am at 96,200ish miles now on my 2014.
But how is this repair affecting your oil consumption issue? I guess you just have to wait and see with more miles accumulated. Personally I believe you will still have oil consumption like before as the oil pan oil leak is insignificant to the problem.
 
But how is this repair affecting your oil consumption issue? I guess you just have to wait and see with more miles accumulated. Personally I believe you will still have oil consumption like before as the oil pan oil leak is insignificant to the problem.

Would be my guess as well, but not enough time/miles has really passed yet to make that determination.
 
Well, slightly different thread from my last one.

I am about 500 miles away from my next oil change which will be 7500 miles since my last one. I was not particularly happy about having to add a quart of oil at 6000 miles.

Thinking of the following options:

  • Stick with 0w20 and go back to a 5000 mile interval.
  • Try 5w30 and see if I reduce the oil loss.

Last oil change I did was around a 6500 mile OCI and likewise was almost down a whole quart and when drained it only reached up a bit over the 4 qt mark on the empty 5 qt jug. I always add 5 qts every oil change. Having to add another quart during this OCI around the same mileage seems to confirm that wasn't a fluke and I burn off a quart of oil every 6000-6500 miles. Not sure if it's always done that or not, but seeing as I only DIYed since last year and only actually tracking how much was drained the previous change, not really sure.

Does a quart every 6000-6500 miles seem excessive? It does to me. Anything else I should be doing or looking for? Have never observed any evidence of oil leaks so I wonder if it's the 0w20 combined with my spirited driving style but also a transition to mostly city driving with very little highway these days.
I have 160,000 miles on my 2014. Change the 0w20 valvoline every 10,000 miles and only down 1/2 quart during that period.
 
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