Knew it wouldnt work

Matthew said:
yes, both the blue/yellow and pink/blue wire turn into a shielded gray wire and the ground is basically wrapped around the pink/blue inside the gray shielded wire and connects to the black/white wire near the harness.

so disconnect that ground or not?

what about that fuse, anyone know what its for?

what else could it be...gotta be something to do with that wire. of course, it still doesnt fix the boost problem, but its obviously a problem if i disconnect and the car idles good.

also, what about the 0v to the first o2 sensor?
Well this is what I am thinking:

That wire inside of the grey shielded wire got pinched somewhere. The black/white is just a ground. It is grounding the pink/blue wire, hence why you have 0V on you O2 sensor or close to 0V.

0V on you O2 and the car thinks you are lean, it adds more fuel.

As the RPMs go up the computer gets freaked and it is out of limits, it's saying this cannot be possible, throws a CEL and leans the car out.
 
Matthew said:
also, how about disconnecting the black/white wire from the pink/blue and tapping like my ground for my TT and connecting it to the pink/blue?
I don't think you can disconnect the pin 60 wire, that's where the ECU get's it's voltage from. I'm going to go out in the rain to see what you're talking about.
 
Matthew said:
also, how about disconnecting the black/white wire from the pink/blue and tapping like my ground for my TT and connecting it to the pink/blue?
If anything that Black/White is working properly. If what I said works just find another shielded wire at an electronics store and replace the one that's bad.
 
timm - no im asking if i should remove the black ground from pin 60 and the other pin and ground it using a known good ground, like my turbo timer.

focus - explain why i still had 0v last night when i disconnected the ground from pin 60? why have 0v with it connected an disconnected? and then why did boost work etc for a short period of time and then not?
 
Focus said:
If anything that Black/White is working properly. If what I said works just find another shielded wire at an electronics store and replace the one that's bad.
so youre saying keep the ground connected to the pink/blue wire and run the new wire and see what that changes or doesnt change? or youre referring to something else?
 
The black ground should not be on pin 60. Only the Pink/blue wire should be there. The Black/White should be on one of the following pins:
24,51,76,77 or possibly 91 but that's a different color.

It should be acting as a ground just for shielding purposes, I believe.


Matthew said:
no im asking if i should remove the black ground from pin 60 and the other pin and ground it using a known good ground, like my turbo timer.

focus - explain why i still had 0v last night when i disconnected the ground from pin 60? why have 0v with it connected an disconnected? and then why did boost work etc for a short period of time and then not?
 
Focus said:
It should be acting as a ground just for shielding purposes, I believe.
i dont know what this means. you are saying the black/white wire should just be wrapped around pink/blue but not connected to it?
 
Matthew said:
so youre saying keep the ground connected to the pink/blue wire and run the new wire and see what that changes or doesnt change? or youre referring to something else?
Try both ways

Also do 1 more thing before you do all that.

With your multimeter, measure the resistance between the Pink/Blue wire and ground from the battery.
 
Focus said:
Try both ways

Also do 1 more thing before you do all that.

With your multimeter, measure the resistance between the Pink/Blue wire and ground from the battery.
read my above post i edited. how do you measure resistance? so i use the same connection i used to test the voltage and simply use a diff setting on the multimeter?
 
Focus said:
so thats why when it is connected to it, it grounds out the wire and the ECU sees nothing?

but, here is what i am also thinking. if say its pinched somewhere in that shielded line and pin 60 is being grounded by that black/white somewhere (god knows where), why does it act differently if i connect or disconnect it at the harness from pin60? (make sense?)

EDIT: in other words, if its already grounded somewhere in the middle of no where why does it make a difference if i disconnect or reconnect it?
 
Matthew said:
read my above post i edited. how do you measure resistance? so i use the same connection i used to test the voltage and simply use a diff setting on the multimeter?
Put the meter on the Greek Omega and put one test lead to the pink/blue and the other to battery ground.

OhmsSymbol.gif
 
Matthew said:
so thats why when it is connected to it, it grounds out the wire and the ECU sees nothing?

but, here is what i am also thinking. if say its pinched somewhere in that shielded line and pin 60 is being grounded by that black/white somewhere (god knows where), why does it act differently if i connect or disconnect it at the harness from pin60? (make sense?)

EDIT: in other words, if its already grounded somewhere in the middle of no where why does it make a difference if i disconnect or reconnect it?
Well you just told me it's connected to the pink/blue and it shouldn't be. SO maybe it's not pinched, maybe you had it connected there all along.
 
i thought it was but i think it was just wrapped. ok what setting, i have 20M, 200K, 2K, and 200?
 
The pin 60 wire goes into a shielded cable that's grey. There's a brack tracer that follows the wire, ground. I think the tracer is to help reduce noise from interfeering with the pink wire. I like Focus' idea about the new wire.
 
im sorry...none of the settings do anything. when i turn it on it has a 1 or something. then i put the red in the blue wire and the black on the neg terminal and nothing happens. on ANY of the settings.

also, now the black/wht is disconnected from pink/blue and im still running uber rich. ****.
 
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