Guide How To Remove/Install Tranny and LSD or Disassemble Gears

Heres a question, is there any way to get the 2 bolts in the reverse gear section out without an impact?
 
Technically yes... you are supposed to be able to do it by holding the input shaft fixed. But that requires a special tool. It's dangerous to do wth the engine etc I guess.
 
My buddy has one, but it's hard to work around other peoples scheduals, thats why i was wondering. Good enough though I'll just impact them.

I'm sure mazda wants a million dollars for that special tool lol.
 
Yep, I have one of the harbor freight electric impacts. Have used it now for going on 6 years without any issues. Works better than my air impact too!
 
I just wanted to give another thank you to
TurfBurn for this thread!!!
I couldn't have done this without some direction.
here's my endeavor.
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so thats wat im gettin into huh thanks for the directions and ill post how it goes thanks turfburn for the help
 
seems like you guys know alot about trannys so i gotta question about mine, well its what happened maybe you could help alittle. I did a hole shot and at about 6000rpms it felt like my car went into neutral. There was no noise or smell of anything burnt. So i shifted into second but had nothing. I can shift into all the gears fine and i still have good clutch pedal pressure. When i put it into any gear to take off it does nothing but make a klunking noise every once and a while. But when i put the car on a lift the tires will spin. No idea whats going on PLease help thanks

By the way awesome write up if i gotta pull the tranny i know where to look for directions and pics thanks
 
Make sure to get the new one welded for reinforcement. Search for "welded lsd" it's a common weak link even at stock power levels.
 
Yep that's a must, and regardless of what certain vendors like to say I was the second person on the boards to do it, and the first to commercialize it. I'd have to dig to find the person that did it first again, but i know there have been some people taking credit for it that didn't do it... along with the trick Little Beavis came up with for accessing the upper oil pan/girdle bolts through the transmission bell housing etc... Sorry for the rant, but I think it's a little sad/pathetic when people have to stake reputations or claims on things they didn't come up with.
 
sweet so i got the tranny out of my car but getting to the lsd seems like its not for me. im gonna pay someone for that lol. but you were saying to get a welded on. i saw one the street unit website and they have a updated and tig welded one. would that be what im looking for??? any suggestions on which one to get?
 
I'd check with protege garage first, I have worked with Ken and know him well, but I know many people like Cullen and Street Unit. But yes the updated (which is just second revision LSD, which changes the structure, but isn't actually any better for reliability, and some say is worse for peformance) and TIG welded (the only real way this welding can be done) is the right thing. The welding is the most important.
 
TurfBurn said:
After putting the differential in and then realigning the shift linkages and putting the roll pin back in shift both the 1-2 and the 3-4 to the middle or neutral of their gear sets. Then you can then work on the gasket. Clean off all the extra oil or so forth on the sealing face, and then with a rag dipped in the extra oil rub off any remaining gasket. Get it pretty clean. Then wipe it down with a clean rag. Apply an even unbroken small bead all the way around the transmission. After doing that set the upper encloser back over the gear set and let it sit for about 30 minutes. Then tighten down a few bolts to hold it in place.

Put the two small bolts you removed from the side back in (they will have to line up properly with the shift linkage and the receiver on the reverse idler gear shaft properly. Make sure you have things lined up before you put the top cover back on and bolt it down.). With those bolts back in place replace the reverse gearing on the top. Put the fork on and hand tighten new lock nuts on the gearing. The reason for doing all this and not re-assembling the tranny completely is to test the shifting.

To test shifting you can put a screw driver through the actuator rod. if you push the rod toward the tranny you will select one gear, then pulling it back out you will hit neutral then further out the next gear. Pushing it back to the middle you can twist the actuator with the screwdriver toward yourself and then push the actuator toward or away from the tranny to check those two gears. Back in the middle now twist the actuator away from yourself and check the two gears there.

Assuming all the gearing worked fine you can then put in all the 14mm edge bolts and tighten them down. Then put in the ball and spring.

Next use an impact wrench to tighten down the locking nuts in bursts on the reverse gearing. Then knock in the flanges to lock the nuts in place. Create a new gasket around the edge and put the black end cap on and tighten it down. Pull out the oil seals from the differential casing and replace them. You can tap them into place with a blunt object by gently going around the edge of them.

You should then have all the parts back on the tranny and be ready to put it in the car.
Click to expand...

Thought this might help as a continuation to prevent problems/questions (2thumbs)
Prodigy's how-to rebuild a g15m-r transmission
 
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