Guide: ATF Drain/Fill

[GoodGuyDudu]

I nearly got those as well before I changed my mind and went with wooden chopsticks. Good luck and good find.

Oh so that's where I read about the Dowel rods, I think it was your post!! I'm just curious how you used them to align/guide your pan with the rods holding and not falling?

 

[ruthrj]

Oh so that's where I read about the Dowel rods, I think it was your post!! I'm just curious how you used them to align/guide your pan with the rods holding and not falling?

I cut them to be about two and half inches long, and I stuck them in the bolt holes. I got the part of the chopsticks where the diameter was a snug fit for the holes. I applied the RTV to the pan and used those chopsticks in the four corners to guide the pan into place.

I gently held the pan flush against the transmission with one hand, and with the other hand I carefully removed one chopstick and replaced it with a pan bolt. It’s a bit of a balancing act but not terribly difficult, just don’t want to smush the pan completely flush. I tightened that one bolt some but not all the way. I then removed the opposite corner stick and replaced it with a pan bolt. By the time 2 bolts in opposite corners were in place, I gave my arms a brief break and was ready to do the remainder with the pan held up by those two bolts.

 

[GoodGuyDudu]

I cut them to be about two and half inches long, and I stuck them in the bolt holes. I got the part of the chopsticks where the diameter was a snug fit for the holes. I applied the RTV to the pan and used those chopsticks in the four corners to guide the pan into place.

I gently held the pan flush against the transmission with one hand, and with the other hand I carefully removed one chopstick and replaced it with a pan bolt. It’s a bit of a balancing act but not terribly difficult, just don’t want to smush the pan completely flush. I tightened that one bolt some but not all the way. I then removed the opposite corner stick and replaced it with a pan bolt. By the time 2 bolts in opposite corners were in place, I gave my arms a brief break and was ready to do the remainder with the pan held up by those two bolts.

That's really smart, thanks for this!

 

[yrwei52]

Something I found online that I thought might be helpful when re-installing the pan: snap ups by Fel-Pro. They screw in the corners and hold the pan and help with the alignment. I will buy them to test.

Video tutorial: How to Install an Oil Pan Gasket with SnapUps Installation Aid | Fel-Pro Gaskets

@PatrickGSR94 had used the same oil pan “snapups” too:

⋯
I recall the Felpro Permadry gasket I installed on my Integra oil pan a couple years ago. The gasket came with several plastic threaded studs with little clips, which would go into the cylinder block, and the oil pan could be pushed up into place and temporarily held by those clips on the plastic studs. Pretty ingenious idea. I might still have some of those around, it would be amazing if the thread was the same size on the Skyactiv ATF pan.

Here's the product, and this size should work with the CX5 ATF drain pan.

https://www.autozone.com/shop-and-garage-tools/oil-pan-tool/fel-pro-6mm-bolt-oil-pan-snapups/155048_0_0?rrec=true

2014 CX5 Tune-Up items to replace?

 

[weitau]

What a great idea! I would've bought some long bolts from the hardware store and cut off the heads.

 

[yieldchase]

Thanks for this post.

Im prepping to drop the transmission pan sometime this summer so I found this thread useful. The pan could use some sanding and paint … or a new one? and my bolts have seen better days… so probably will need all them bolts.

In mean time … got car in Nov, did first drain in December and second in January. I put in whatever I took out and based on car history (I’m not first owner) this service was never performed. Iirc I filled 3.3-3.5 quarts each time. Never got around to checking the levels using proper procedure.

Checked it yesterday… and sitting just above 50. Roh oh. Was trying to figure out the quantity between low bar and top bar just so I don’t overfill. Which lead me to this thread.

Figured I’d share my readings at 150k miles with essentially factory fill.

Now… what I haven’t seen is folks applying rtv to both the pan and the transmission as it says in manual. I’ve come across mostly rtv on pan or a gasket on pan. I can see myself applying rtv on pan no problem but the transmission might be a challenge with no lift, lying upside down, and in a poorly lit space. I could see this being messy for me. Anywho, just wanted to share.

 

[Kedis82ZE8]

I've been tempted to just go with a 3rd party gasket myself and use a brand new oil pan

 

[yrwei52]

Thanks for this post.

Im prepping to drop the transmission pan sometime this summer so I found this thread useful.

Yes.

The pan could use some sanding and paint … or a new one? and my bolts have seen better days… so probably will need all them bolts.

In mean time … got car in Nov, did first drain in December and second in January.

Some owners who live in rust belt chose to get new bolts, or even a new pan to save the clean time.

I put in whatever I took out and based on car history (I’m not first owner) this service was never performed. Iirc I filled 3.3-3.5 quarts each time. Never got around to checking the levels using proper procedure.

Checked it yesterday… and sitting just above 50. Roh oh. Was trying to figure out the quantity between low bar and top bar just so I don’t overfill. Which lead me to this thread.

Figured I’d share my readings at 150k miles with essentially factory fill.Now… what I haven’t seen is folks applying rtv to both the pan and the transmission as it says in manual. I’ve come across mostly rtv on pan or a gasket on pan. I can see myself applying rtv on pan no problem but the transmission might be a challenge with no lift, lying upside down, and in a poorly lit space. I could see this being messy for me. Anywho, just wanted to share.

You should never fill the ATF based on factory ATF amount you drained out as many have found the factory fill is low. Your dipstick showed the ATF is low on level as you only put in 3.3 ~ 3.5 quarts. 3.75 quarts is a common knowledge here on refill amount for a simply drain&fill.

Update: I warmed up the transmission fluid to 51C / 123F and re-checked level (car idling, level surface) and it was just below the Full line. MS Paint artwork attached.

Summary: added 600ml to factory fluid to bring it up to full level. I did not drain and fill since car has 30K km / 18K miles.

2018 CX-5 Low Speed Transmission Hesitation/Jerk/Lurch

Now… what I haven’t seen is folks applying rtv to both the pan and the transmission as it says in manual. I’ve come across mostly rtv on pan or a gasket on pan. I can see myself applying rtv on pan no problem but the transmission might be a challenge with no lift, lying upside down, and in a poorly lit space. I could see this being messy for me. Anywho, just wanted to share.

View attachment 328872

Yeh every DIYer applied the RTV only on one side, the ATF pan, with good result. Here’re a couple of more good threads on ATF change you can read:

2016.5 CX-5 Transmission fluid change questions

2013 - 2016 CX-5 Transmission Fluid Drain/Filter Replacement Guide

2014 CX5 Tune-Up items to replace?

 

[ruthrj]

I think it’s safer just applying RTV to the pan. I’d rather get the correct amount applied in a controlled manner instead of accidentally applying too much. I saw a cruddy video yesterday of a toasted engine. The cause? Too much RTV on the inside of the oil pan, a chunk broke off and clogged an oil passage and killed the engine. You should be fine with RTV on the pan only as long as the transmission side is nice and clean.

 

[theblooms]

I used gaskets. But if you do decide to go with RTV, Hondabond HT is THE TRUTH. Get that stuff for sure. Absolutely the very best RTV on the market.

 

[yrwei52]

Some people here use Mazda silicone sealant TB1217C with good result.

⋯ I went with the OEM Mazda sealant, which looks and smells exactly like Permatex Ultra Grey RTV sealant. I followed the Permatex directions of going finger-tight on the bolts, waiting about an hour, then torquing them to final spec, and then waiting until the next day (18-24 hours) before starting the car.

The little tube key that helps push the sealant out, that came with the Mazda sealant, came in really handy.

 

[yieldchase]

Some people here use Mazda silicone sealant TB1217C with good result.

Yeap that's what I got in my shopping cart and am planning on using.

Yes.



Some owners who live in rust belt chose to get new bolts, or even a new pan to save the clean time.



You should never fill the ATF based on factory ATF amount you drained out as many have found the factory fill is low. Your dipstick showed the ATF is low on level as you only put in 3.3 ~ 3.5 quarts. 3.75 quarts is a common knowledge here on refill amount for a simply drain&fill.



2018 CX-5 Low Speed Transmission Hesitation/Jerk/Lurch



Yeh every DIYer applied the RTV only on one side, the ATF pan, with good result. Here’re a couple of more good threads on ATF change you can read:

2016.5 CX-5 Transmission fluid change questions

2013 - 2016 CX-5 Transmission Fluid Drain/Filter Replacement Guide

2014 CX5 Tune-Up items to replace?

Thanks for the links! And yes I'll be adding more ATF today or tomorrow ... car is currently waiting on some parts as I found some broken plastic tabs and used Plastic Weld. So that is drying atm.

I've been tempted to just go with a 3rd party gasket myself and use a brand new oil pan

View attachment 328874

What brand are you thinking of trying? I live in rust area so there is some rust on the pan. I took a wire wheel to it already and painted with black rust paint ... its doing the job but doesn't look pretty.

I used gaskets. But if you do decide to go with RTV, Hondabond HT is THE TRUTH. Get that stuff for sure. Absolutely the very best RTV on the market.

I think it was your comments about having good experience with WIX? filters that peaked my interest in considering them. I took a look at rock auto and the filters they offer all come with a gasket. Interesting.

 

[theblooms]

I think it was your comments about having good experience with WIX? filters that peaked my interest in considering them. I took a look at rock auto and the filters they offer all come with a gasket. Interesting.

Yup. They work perfectly.

 

[yrwei52]

If anyone thinking about using the aftermarket transmission filter with pan gasket, be aware that the gasket may not fit depending on your transmission pan. My guess is Mazda had changed the transmission pan shape when they added the cylinder deactivation for 2018 CX-5, where the transmission was also modified to add some components to fight the vibration by CD.

I did mine today. 2020 CX-5 Touring, 2.5L NA engine, 50,000 miles. ⋯
The WIX filter and gasket I got from Rockauto had a different variation of gasket (similar but 2 holes were about 3/4" off), so I ended up buying RTV from a local auto parts store, I was a bit pissed about that.

I use Wix filters, which includes a gasket. I use the gasket every time, and I've never had a leak.
Wix part number on the filter for my 2013 CX-5 with the 2.0 is WL10379.

Used that same filter today on my 2020 2.5L NA Touring.
Two holes on the gasket were about 3/4" off - couldn't use the gasket. That had me a bit pissed. Ended up using $15 tube Permatex from my local parts store - the price of the RTV was nearly as much as the filter and gasket, which had me more pissed.

And from:

Blauparts.com - Mazda CX-5 Transmission Fluid Change Kit - 2013-23 - 6 Spd - Ravenol

Vehicle Fitment Note: Fits all 2013-2017 Mazda CX-5 models. 2018-2023 Mazda CX-5 models could have two transmission pan types. 2018-2023 Mazda CX-5 model owners will need to confirm a transmission pan part number FZ01-21-51XA, FZ01-21-51XB, FZ01-21-51X, or FZA1-21-51X before ordering. We suggest contacting your dealer and ask them what transmission pan part number you would need if replacing it. You can also visually inspect the pan for an OEM part number sticker but these have typically been weathered and are not legible.

 

[yieldchase]

Added atf fluid today … took me 275 ml (~ 0.291 qt) to get to the middle of the rectangle mark from my earlier photo of fluid being at just past 50 mark.

So in case anyone is needing that information here you go.

Oh and 250 ml got me just below the rectangle.

Sorry photo is couldn’t get camera focus and lighting to cooperate. This is what I got.

Cheers

 

[N7turbo]

Did you have a leak? I'm not sure why ATF would ever need to be added.

 

[Kedis82ZE8]

It could have been low from factory fill

 

[ruthrj]

It could have been low from factory fill

Mine was low from the factory when I drained and filled my ‘13 at 50k miles.

 

[yieldchase]

Ya I’m not sure why it was low tbh. I’m a new owner and I only have service records which show no transmission service. So seems it came this way

 

[N7turbo]

Ya I’m not sure why it was low tbh. I’m a new owner and I only have service records which show no transmission service. So seems it came this way

Your ATF was warm when you checked it, correct?