When you removed the air box, did you somehow keep the wiring connected to avoid the error code with engine idling?
If you look at the engine picture you can see that the air box in still connected and pushed to the side, no need to disconnect it. Car was as level as could be, slightly lower to the passenger side if anything which could explain the discrepancy. Yes, did have a OBD hookup and checked at 122 and up to 128.
I was trying to remove these push pins too and it seems I will break them. Do you use a special took to remove them?
small blade screwdriver to pop the center pin and a pair of pliers to pull them out. And as determined as I was not to, I lost one, don't know where the hell it got to. Must be in the same place where all the lost socks go.....
I keep a collection of various size pins. They aren't expensive at all, and if you do regular maintenance on your stuff, they absolutely will get broken.
Like madar, I use a small flat-head screwdriver stick into one of the cut-offs around the center pin and lift the center pin (serve as a lock) out fully, then the whole push pin can be pulled out easily.
It sounded easy enough.
If I remember it correctly, you drained more ATF last time than this time?
What kind of OBDII hardware / software do you use?
I have an Autel MX808. Fantastic piece and the price is DIY friendly.
It was easy, tough part was pulling the dipstick out, was in there for 7 years and was difficult. O-ring fits down in the oil hole and was difficult pulling out, had to gently twist and pull the dipstick, think I might have torn the o-ring a bit but it's not leaking. I bought a BAFX OBD reader for Android ($21) years ago and use Forscan with it, $7 for the license. This was the first time trans fluid was changed in 75k miles. I highly recommend a shorter interval. Fluid wasn't in bad shape, must be good stuff, no residue on the drain plug at all.
yeah, I bought a 100 piece bag from Amazon for 8 bucks..
The drain plug doesn’t have any magnet hence you won’t see any metal residue on it. If you ever decide to drop the pan, you’ll see all the metal shavings there, on the magnetic disk attached to the inside of the pan. See these photos from post #238 by rj_make:
Ok, wasn't sure. I plan to do another fluid swap later in this year then next year will be the trans filter. The rear diff plug was clean also.
The drain plugs on oil pan and ATF pan have the same part number. This’s from older Allen / hex socket oil drain plug. The black tip is only the paint, not the magnet.
A simple drain and fill, no. But once you get about 50-60k, dropping the pan and replacing the filter is a good practice.
Aisin Type FZ price has gone from $8 a quart last year to over $10 this year at RockAuto. I used that last year as it’s specifically FZ fluid from Aisin (transmission manufacturer) and the savings added up over 12 or 13 quarts (3x drain and fill), but the price difference between that and OEM isn’t as good as it once was. I’d opt for OEM at todays prices. It’s a hair over $12 a quart from online Mazda part dealers. I completely agree as well: I’d never put something like a one size fits all fluid in the SkyActiv transmission. Has to be FZ.
