Guide ATF Drain/Fill

Rock Auto sells the transmission filter from Back/Arnley and Vaico. Supposedly both good brands with Vaico/Vierol being a German company.

Anyone use those brand trans filters?

The Vaico (German Made) is $33 on RA
The Beck/Arnley is $22 on RA
The Wix is $18 on RA
The Mazda OEM is $63 at the dealership

The Aisin Type FZ fluid is $10 per quart on RA

I might go with the Beck/Arnley brand. Anyone use the Beck/Arnley?
 
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I don't remember seeing a magnet on the trans fill stick (2017 CX5)??? I dropped the pan at ~34K and WOW.... This was on 03/27/2021 (getting ready to do it again in ~5K (65K)

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That is 100% normal. It's just clutch material which is normal operation. If you see larger metal fragments and burnt fluid, then I would be concerned. Otherwise what you see in the pics is 100% normal. Every transmission I have done has clutch material in the pan and magnet.

What type of RTV did you use to seal the pan?
What did you torque the pan bolts to ?
 
Hi, Planning to remove my tranny pan again and have it resealed since it seems to have a small leak again. I used the silicone from Mazda last time (gray color). Is that still a good part to use or would an aftermarket be better?

How many liters of tranny fluid is needed? I remember buying 4 last time and seems like the mechanic only used 3.
 
Hi, Planning to remove my tranny pan again and have it resealed since it seems to have a small leak again. I used the silicone from Mazda last time (gray color). Is that still a good part to use or would an aftermarket be better?
Based on people here who have used Mazda’s OEM silicone and they all said it’s pretty good. The key is more on cleaning and how you apply the sealer, the silicone itself shouldn’t be too much the issue as long as it’s designed to be used on the ATF pan. Make sure to follow the direction, and leave the cure time before you pour in the fresh ATF.


How many liters of tranny fluid is needed? I remember buying 4 last time and seems like the mechanic only used 3.
This makes no sense as it should take about 3.75 quarts of the fresh ATF for a normal drain-and-fill, and it needs about 0.5 quart or more when you take the ATF pan down.
 
Based on people here who have used Mazda’s OEM silicone and they all said it’s pretty good. The key is more on cleaning and how you apply the sealer, the silicone itself shouldn’t be too much the issue as long as it’s designed to be used on the ATF pan. Make sure to follow the direction, and leave the cure time before you pour in the fresh ATF.



This makes no sense as it should take about 3.75 quarts of the fresh ATF for a normal drain-and-fill, and it needs about 0.5 quart or more when you take the ATF pan down.
Thanks for the response. Sorry i put out the wrong numbers. I bought 6 liters and 4.5 was used. I guess i should just buy 5 next time
 
Based on people here who have used Mazda’s OEM silicone and they all said it’s pretty good. The key is more on cleaning and how you apply the sealer, the silicone itself shouldn’t be too much the issue as long as it’s designed to be used on the ATF pan. Make sure to follow the direction, and leave the cure time before you pour in the fresh ATF.



This makes no sense as it should take about 3.75 quarts of the fresh ATF for a normal drain-and-fill, and it needs about 0.5 quart or more when you take the ATF pan down.
Agreed, have the pan and transmission housing surfaces clean clean clean. I used motorcraft silicone gasket remover and wiped down with alcohol. I did a smidge of degreaser as well to make sure there was no residue incompatible with silicone.
 
I have read here that silicone should have a curing time. Maybe that is the reason I still have a leak because I need to get out of the shop once the mechanic is done. Maybe I should do this myself this summer instead. Do I need to replace my bolts as well to be sure?

Here are the parts i was planning to buy in the dealership
- 5 litre ATF
- Tranny filter
- Silicone gasket

Anything else should i be getting?
 
I have read here that silicone should have a curing time. Maybe that is the reason I still have a leak because I need to get out of the shop once the mechanic is done. Maybe I should do this myself this summer instead. Do I need to replace my bolts as well to be sure?

Here are the parts i was planning to buy in the dealership
- 5 litre ATF
- Tranny filter
- Silicone gasket

Anything else should i be getting?
Mazda workshop manual says the pan bolts need to be replaced for the pan drop, but I know most people didn’t bother to replace them.

Here’s another thread with very detailed discussion on ATF change:

2016.5 CX-5 Transmission fluid change questions

See post #62 in the thread which has listed all necessary parts for ATF change with pan drop and Digbicks1234 replaced all pan bolts.
 
This thing i was not sure if I can reuse since it was 2 years ago that it was worked on. one is open and the other was not. Can i still reuse it?

Personally, I wouldn't hesitate to use the leftover fluid. For sure the unopened bottle. The open bottle would be the only question. If it was my car and I had done the work, I would know how this opened bottle was handled and would use it without question...
 
I did an easy drain and fill this morning. I feel confident accurate fill at temp was done last time.

Vehicle was in cold garage overnight with new fluid right beside it.

Front was on ramps and 3 quarts 17 ounces out.

I've said this before but if you are just doing a simple drain and fill no need to remove the airbox if you are comfortable with your front wheels on Rhino ramps.

Long extension to get the 10mm bolt out of dipstick and long funnel that literally sits next to airbox with tube in the AT Fill.

About 25k miles since last of the series of 3 drain and fills I did in June 2019.

If there was anything on the magnet it was basically trace level not seen by the human eye.
Just did mine today, opted to remove the air box. Really, it's only about 3 or 4 minutes more and you have a whole lot of room to check fluid at the right temp. Drained about 3 quarts and a few ounces, put the same back and the level fell right in line. Hardest part was taking the undercovers off. I hate those push-pins...
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The Vaico (German Made) is $33 on RA
The Beck/Arnley is $22 on RA
The Wix is $18 on RA
The Mazda OEM is $63 at the dealership

The Aisin Type FZ fluid is $10 per quart on RA

I might go with the Beck/Arnley brand. Anyone use the Beck/Arnley?
I use the Wix, because the Wix comes with a gasket. And, Wix is a very, very good brand of filters.

Also, when I reinstall my pan bolts, I use my Milwaukee M12 1/4" ratchet, and just run them until the ratchet "maxes" out. That particular ratched seems to apply the *exact* amount of even torque to all of the pan bolts to keep them from leaking.

Mind you, this is simply an electric ratchet. There's no impact action at all. I think it's rated for 33 ftlbs? Something like that. And mine is well, well used, so mine is probably even less! Whatever it is, it seems to be perfect.

cDQQsOGuCcObQbHiLjSov5yxXKQ0B9-DSQicMHNFfdsVbs1OJcpxjvK9fS2IT1vw4Dsq6HlVBSLKM0MW3C_1c7UF220O1KrvnbJ6_AmAFDAw9-u5sTlR_SPL_8XwPkfPDlK9N84KErb9ZCAMYC1Ts1j2QYQqj1gfpyD6ptP6ztxxoMlGiNb_04cuoAvPklq34rQpGNu4Mofx8V4yXy9YjzNT5DEjUl9NXUlnOSQXNwVbrIACLEAHUlbRKPjcmreBySRDXZjXWrkrbvFD-Q8AEzTp9Qcyp-Xh--o_jf2z4YBd3itP3E8kkSyuM6HxdQkCbZ6adgksbaHcJDOB-F8Uex-x9naH6kese779CIEyc-v0Pq1Z92dHYc3YH0__4lrh2_6ytrExT2H2fy-t6zSc7jR9iPnrwyGtTRTft9akPLJI7zgdKTKg2pSSTrb5tT5qpPNEMgX5-J3_seQ3vtZi64p_kUXgAGGyKfd-VmUfHnrJ2NBNTj0lccAHEF_2NVCb5-UTTsrPpweZKVBsDstV80NaED-B3W0tFCJJfRCrZNIRGprYINvE75LZe7Wh8FzUZ-3zPbfz4CwL2ymUNumEOKoJ5UbcCKQ9SKXUecCq4J-Xn8MYFhTfy_KjO0H8ODCD7jUcWJEXC_tcsTusIth1dQshQNpgwprEUBBoTpVofWTSvcLKBwluaxfGMAKHK8hWi847-SyVcre9xlRLuQMDQZrM0x09ySk26vN4OrB7YZxD31CALDwXyl7ENvXbCM8gx6mCrNgVyneEQf34vrghSf2BkxV-q9xJe5OzCF0m37a2-6R1OqZpNuA9aOdKywoJrCxMt-vVKrr1KZPC3sfuDsHzJnSDgleI96gn0_MbKE0drQD6qYmNotSdiJ0Sod9u4RkQB9jS9UUYHm0BB9UTabd7BG-X1N-6z-GCgeY6y7UgX0SXXw=w1920-h653-s-no
 
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I use the Wix, because the Wix comes with a gasket. And, Wix is a very, very good brand of filters.

Also, when I reinstall my pan bolts, I use my Milwaukee M12 1/4" ratchet, and just run them until the ratchet "maxes" out. That particular ratched seems to apply the *exact* amount of even torque to all of the pan bolts to keep them from leaking.

Mind you, this is simply an electric ratchet. There's no impact action at all. I think it's rated for 33 ftlbs? Something like that. And mine is well, well used, so mine is probably even less! Whatever it is, it seems to be perfect.

cDQQsOGuCcObQbHiLjSov5yxXKQ0B9-DSQicMHNFfdsVbs1OJcpxjvK9fS2IT1vw4Dsq6HlVBSLKM0MW3C_1c7UF220O1KrvnbJ6_AmAFDAw9-u5sTlR_SPL_8XwPkfPDlK9N84KErb9ZCAMYC1Ts1j2QYQqj1gfpyD6ptP6ztxxoMlGiNb_04cuoAvPklq34rQpGNu4Mofx8V4yXy9YjzNT5DEjUl9NXUlnOSQXNwVbrIACLEAHUlbRKPjcmreBySRDXZjXWrkrbvFD-Q8AEzTp9Qcyp-Xh--o_jf2z4YBd3itP3E8kkSyuM6HxdQkCbZ6adgksbaHcJDOB-F8Uex-x9naH6kese779CIEyc-v0Pq1Z92dHYc3YH0__4lrh2_6ytrExT2H2fy-t6zSc7jR9iPnrwyGtTRTft9akPLJI7zgdKTKg2pSSTrb5tT5qpPNEMgX5-J3_seQ3vtZi64p_kUXgAGGyKfd-VmUfHnrJ2NBNTj0lccAHEF_2NVCb5-UTTsrPpweZKVBsDstV80NaED-B3W0tFCJJfRCrZNIRGprYINvE75LZe7Wh8FzUZ-3zPbfz4CwL2ymUNumEOKoJ5UbcCKQ9SKXUecCq4J-Xn8MYFhTfy_KjO0H8ODCD7jUcWJEXC_tcsTusIth1dQshQNpgwprEUBBoTpVofWTSvcLKBwluaxfGMAKHK8hWi847-SyVcre9xlRLuQMDQZrM0x09ySk26vN4OrB7YZxD31CALDwXyl7ENvXbCM8gx6mCrNgVyneEQf34vrghSf2BkxV-q9xJe5OzCF0m37a2-6R1OqZpNuA9aOdKywoJrCxMt-vVKrr1KZPC3sfuDsHzJnSDgleI96gn0_MbKE0drQD6qYmNotSdiJ0Sod9u4RkQB9jS9UUYHm0BB9UTabd7BG-X1N-6z-GCgeY6y7UgX0SXXw=w1920-h653-s-no
Those ratchets are nice. I had one about 20 years ago, a Skill. Thing was $50 brand new. The rechargeable battery quit taking a charge and it was discontinued at that time so I couldn't find a battery for it. They're nice for when you're upside down under the car. They're a bit pricey today.
 
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