SkyActiv Oil Analysis Thread

Its the Mazda oem oil for Non turbos. Thats the reason. The oil is perfect for that engine.
I think that's debatable, because there are many N/A direct-injected engines out there which these oils were developed for. It seems turbos are more sensitive to it but it's not a turbo-exclusive problem.
 
Since we're on the subject of oil consumption:

I owned a 2004 Acura RSX Type S. These weren't particularly known for burning oil...some did but most didn't. I followed the 10k "recommended" schedule up until my oil light came on around 55k. The engine took maybe 4 qts and I had burned through enough of that within 10k to trigger the light. After that I started monitoring usage. Ultimately it was burning a quart every 2500 miles...not terrible but not great. It also developed a timing chain tensioner slap (pretty common on those engines) that may or may not have been encouraged by long OCIs.

I've had my 2015 CX5 GT for almost 10 years now. Coming up on 100k miles and I've changed the oil every 5k and it consumes about 1/2 qt every 5k and that's been consistent at least for the past 8 years.

Anyway, I wonder if these 10k OCIs factories recommend are just too long? Also, most of us probably need to maintain our cars using the manual's "extreme" schedule. Short trips and city driving is how I mainly drive and those repeated shut downs and start ups can't be great on an engine.
 
Also, most of us probably need to maintain our cars using the manual's "extreme" schedule. Short trips and city driving is how I mainly drive and those repeated shut downs and start ups can't be great on an engine.
Also, with iStop on the later turbo engines, that's gotta be even worse. That's the reason I disabled iStop on my CX-50 turbo.
 
Also, with iStop on the later turbo engines, that's gotta be even worse. That's the reason I disabled iStop on my CX-50 turbo.
The Car Care Nut on YouTube had a good video about engine start/stop systems and while he explained how well the systems work and how they won’t destroy your engine, I still feel like the trade offs aren’t worth the potential but what do I know?
 
The Car Care Nut on YouTube had a good video about engine start/stop systems and while he explained how well the systems work and how they won’t destroy your engine, I still feel like the trade offs aren’t worth the potential but what do I know?
To the end user it just means you can't go cheap when replacing your battery. But everything else has been significantly beefed up to handle start/stop.
 
2022 CX-9 here: I just got my latest UOA back, and thought i'd share. This was my sixth change, and everything seems to be settling in nicely. I consistently have a small amount of Potassium showing up however.

Has anyone seen this, or hypothesised sources of K that don't include coolant leak? It's not enough to show any major signs of failure, but it's not ZERO.

I have heard that some cooled EGR systems can cause trace amounts until they fully break in, but I haven't really seen this in any of the examples in this thread (though there are a lot of pages!).

I'm also wondering how much affect environment can play. We're on the east coast, and live next to the water. There were also a few forest fires last summer, and we were close enough to have ash fallout on our property, apparently that can also cause trace amounts of Potassium.

Next sample will be with Pennzoil U.P. i'm curious to compare.
 

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Mine has 0 Potasssium but I use different oil. I am in the desert if it matters but probably not.
The mazda factory fill had some Potassium on mine too.
It could be the oil type. See other UOA for the same oil and compare.
All seems good.
 
Mine has 0 Potasssium but I use different oil. I am in the desert if it matters but probably not.
The mazda factory fill had some Potassium on mine too.
It could be the oil type. See other UOA for the same oil and compare.
All seems good.

OK, nice! Fresh samples of Supertech Synthetic does not contain any K, but will keep watching.

All these samples I have been sending to Toromont for analysis. It's a bit costly to ship across border to Blackstone, but I probably should send one there to compare values.
 
Latest UOA with Amsoil Xl 5w30 for 2.5T . Fuel is creeping up lately. Likely I would try another oil next time , something from the Euro league that has higher viscosity and hths.

IMG_5406.jpeg
 
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4% after only 3500 miles. Viscosity is still ok, if not a little lower than in the past. Flash point is low. Do you think you went on throttle more this interval?
 
Yes. because of the summer uoa dillution , this time I went on a longer drive before removing the oil. But I do have terrible short term drives lately and this winter was unusually cold here. So probably that plays a role.

What is interesting to me is that there is no change in the oil level on the dipstick. Because of the oil burning in past Turbo models I do check it regularly.
 
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4% after only 3500 miles. Viscosity is still ok, if not a little lower than in the past. Flash point is low. Do you think you went on throttle more this interval?
The oil held up ok for the interval but is borderline. The elements are almost none. But if I went for 6000 l-7000 it may have been different story.
Also I dont trust Blackstone fuel % - its likely more. Will check/compare other lab next time.

I rarely go at high throttle unless on ramps or highways and that probably also plays a role + short distances.
The euro c3 spec oils may be better fit for dealing with it. I do change oil frequently and because I dont drive the Turbo much its usually less than 3-4k miles per interval. The engine top is very clean when inspected from the oil cap.

I do have a non-Turbo one too. My conclusion is Turbo will always have much more fuel for city and short driving. vs the non-turbo. Seems the Turbo likes to be driven hard. And also seems its running rich by design to protect the turbo. By tailpipes are black :)
No such issues on my 2018 with similar driving style.
 
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