What have you done to your CX-5 today?

[yieldchase]

Replaced some parts on rear driver side:

- rear trailing arm + new hardware
- rear lateral arm + new hardware
- rear lower control arm + new camber kit + new hardware
- rear link kit
- rear spring
- rear shock + mounting plate + new hardware

Camber bolt was seized in bushing so had to sawzall it.

Spring was broken off near bottom.

Shock bolt was seized in bushing - had to angle grind the shock and take it off the bushing, remove the rubber and take it off with lots of heat and time. Not fun at all.

Was surprised to find KA0G28700B shock — can’t find this part number online to cross reference ?

Just about 250k km / 155k mi

Passenger side is next.

Cheers

Finished passenger side last night.

Replaced same stuff as on driver side:
- rear trailing arm + new hardware
- rear lateral arm + new hardware
- rear lower control arm + new camber kit + new hardware
- rear link kit
- rear spring
- rear shock + mounting plate + new hardware

Just like driver side:
- shock bolt was seized in bushing --> experience from driver side --> grinder to get shock off + 24" pipe wrench to turn the seized bolt
- camber bolt was seized --> sawzall to get out

Hit 252k km.
I hope I'm done with suspension work for this year lol.

Next gonna do both inner tie rod ends this week and book alignment.

 

[GFrosty]

Wipey, wipey -- a bit of interior cleaning, the leather, windows.

Time to think about the engine bay, as well. It's been awhile.

 

[GFrosty]

Oil change in progress. I don't use an oil drain pan.

@N7turbo -- Just wondering which specific Fumoto drain valve you installed. Was it the F106SX (M14-1.5) model?

I'm considering one for my 2016 CX-5

F106SX: Position Adjustable Oil Drain Valve with M14-1.5

The new Fumoto Fumoto® SX-series can be rotated 360° when it is installed, allowing you to choose the position and the oil flow direction for a smaller profile and easier access for maximum protection and further convenience oil drainage.

www.fumotousa.com

 

[N7turbo]

@N7turbo -- Just wondering which specific Fumoto drain valve you installed. Was it the F106SX (M14-1.5) model?

I'm considering one for my 2016 CX-5

F106SX: Position Adjustable Oil Drain Valve with M14-1.5

The new Fumoto Fumoto® SX-series can be rotated 360° when it is installed, allowing you to choose the position and the oil flow direction for a smaller profile and easier access for maximum protection and further convenience oil drainage.

www.fumotousa.com

That's the one. Did I really need the adjustability? I'm not sure. I have it rotated slightly toward the passenger side so it clears the plastic cover. Maybe a lower profile one would be better, but this works.


Looking towards front passenger wheel


Front driver's wheel


Looking towards the back of the car

 

[GrampaSlade]

I put some trim looking decorations in

 

[Conrad 16.5]

Annual oil change and rotated the tires.

I only drove ~3.5k miles over this past year, changed the oil anyways since it's been 12 months. 5K miles for the tire rotation from two years ago. Washed and waxed the wheels while I had em off the car.

I inspected the brakes, looking good at 35k miles. the tires still have life left, even after 35k miles. I'll probably change em out next Fall.

Suspension components all look good too.

 

[paris1]

Annual oil change and rotated the tires.

I only drove ~3.5k miles over this past year, changed the oil anyways since it's been 12 months. 5K miles for the tire rotation from two years ago. Washed and waxed the wheels while I had em off the car.

I inspected the brakes, looking good at 35k miles. the tires still have life left, even after 35k miles. I'll probably change em out next Fall.

Suspension components all look good too.

Wow; and I thought my annual mileage (5-6k) was low!

 

[N7turbo]

I only drove ~3.5k miles over this past year, changed the oil anyways since it's been 12 months. 5K miles for the tire rotation from two years ago. Washed and waxed the wheels while I had em off the car.

What is your process for washing and waxing wheels?

I find the standard brake pads create dust that bakes on within 3000 miles and is hard to remove with a standard wash mitt and car soap. An acidic wheel cleaner and a slightly more aggressive pad may be needed. Perhaps even a clay bar on the barrel. At least that was the case with my black Turbo wheels.

 

[vrsick]

What is your process for washing and waxing wheels?

I find the standard brake pads create dust that bakes on within 3000 miles and is hard to remove with a standard wash mitt and car soap. An acidic wheel cleaner and a slightly more aggressive pad may be needed. Perhaps even a clay bar on the barrel. At least that was the case with my black Turbo wheels.

Here's what I do to maintain the rims clean of brake dust. Every 2 weeks I spray invisible glass cleaner and wipe off with microfiber towel. Sometimes I'll clean them once a week. To add a little protection to the surface of rims, I'll apply a coating of Collinite 845. Even regular wax will do the trick.
I do have chemicals to clean the wheels, but I'd rather not use harsh chemicals if I can avoid it.

 

[N7turbo]

My current wheels are ceramic coated so they just get washed with the rest of the car, no additional products needed. But the stock wheels have the OE brake pad dust baked onto them so I'm curious what people are doing for that.

If you can take the wheels off the car, I highly recommend doing a ceramic coating on them so you can just use your regular car soap on them. It will take a little bit more time up front compared to a wax, but you've already done so much of the work in the removal and the cleaning, you may as well seal them up the best you can.

 

[Conrad 16.5]

Wow; and I thought my annual mileage (5-6k) was low!

I have 6 vehicles. I HAVE to spread out the use of these so I can get some milage on em. One is a motorhome, no spreading out of use on that one. Two are motorcycles, one two wheeled, one with three, a Spyder. Two Mazdas and a pickup. All need oil changes this year.

The CX is our main use vehicle, thus has the most miles on it, aside from the RV. Two long trips this year with the RV, so it had the most miles by far.

 

[Conrad 16.5]

What is your process for washing and waxing wheels?

I find the standard brake pads create dust that bakes on within 3000 miles and is hard to remove with a standard wash mitt and car soap. An acidic wheel cleaner and a slightly more aggressive pad may be needed. Perhaps even a clay bar on the barrel. At least that was the case with my black Turbo wheels.

I've been waxing the wheels, inboard and out, since the CX was brand new (as I do all of my vehicles). A good coat of wax will help to keep stuff from sticking to the wheels. As a result, it's pretty easy washing the brake dust and stuff off now. This is my ritual, rotate tires and wax the wheels. I use the same stuff to wash the car as I do the wheels. Turtle Wax car wash and a microfiber rag.

Clay bar the wheels? In my younger years for sure. Clay bars work great but are so time consuming. I have better things to do, like sitting in the sunshine with a cold Stella in my hand.

I always use my spare when rotating. That way I can check to make sure the spare is aired up and I also check the area where the spare lives, just to make sure nothing is amiss.

I jack up the rear with my floor jack (using the jack point under the rear diff), remove the left rear tire and replace it with the spare., then let the car back down. I then wash and wax the wheel and repeat the process with the front right wheel, jacking the car at the jack point ahead of the front door...

You get the idea. I don't use any jack stands in my process; none are needed.

I bought an impact wrench last year and this was the first time that I got to use it. Fist time using an impact wrench actually.

WoW!!!!! This job is SO much easier with it!!!!! The wheels come off so quickly and go on fast too. I used the lowest setting on the wrench to put the lugs back on and then torqued em using my finely calibrated arms.

Don't forget the anti-seize compound on the lugnut threads!

 

[N7turbo]

Don't forget the anti-seize compound on the lugnut threads!

I was told to never use it on the threads.

 

[Conrad 16.5]

I was told to never use it on the threads.

By whom and why not?

 

[Conrad 16.5]

I just now googled this question.

Lots of answers both ways. I've always used it and from what I've just now read, I'll continue to do so.

No lugs nuts are going to come off because of the use of Anti seize compound, not if they're torqued properly. Did I torque em properly? Most would say not, since I didn't use a torque wrench, only by 'feel' and my calibrated arms.

I've been doing it this way forever without issues.

YMMV

 

[paris1]

I've been waxing the wheels, inboard and out, since the CX was brand new (as I do all of my vehicles). A good coat of wax will help to keep stuff from sticking to the wheels. As a result, it's pretty easy washing the brake dust and stuff off now. This is my ritual, rotate tires and wax the wheels. I use the same stuff to wash the car as I do the wheels. Turtle Wax car wash and a microfiber rag.

Clay bar the wheels? In my younger years for sure. Clay bars work great but are so time consuming. I have better things to do, like sitting in the sunshine with a cold Stella in my hand.

I always use my spare when rotating. That way I can check to make sure the spare is aired up and I also check the area where the spare lives, just to make sure nothing is amiss.

I jack up the rear with my floor jack (using the jack point under the rear diff), remove the left rear tire and replace it with the spare., then let the car back down. I then wash and wax the wheel and repeat the process with the front right wheel, jacking the car at the jack point ahead of the front door...

You get the idea. I don't use any jack stands in my process; none are needed.

I bought an impact wrench last year and this was the first time that I got to use it. Fist time using an impact wrench actually.

WoW!!!!! This job is SO much easier with it!!!!! The wheels come off so quickly and go on fast too. I used the lowest setting on the wrench to put the lugs back on and then torqued em using my finely calibrated arms.

Don't forget the anti-seize compound on the lugnut threads!

You spent $$ on an impact wrench but not on a torque wrench? Hmm…

 

[murky]

You spent $$ on an impact wrench but not on a torque wrench? Hmm…

 

[N7turbo]

When I installed my aluminum wheels, I put anti-seize on the hub where it contacts the wheel. I was careful to not get any on the threads.

When it came time to re-torque the lug nuts, I noticed they had dropped from 95 to around 80 lb ft. That seemed like a big drop to me.

The next time the wheels came off—about a month or two—I noticed some anti-seize had gotten onto the threads. I cleaned them off the best I could, and also cleaned off the inside of the lug nuts and the mounting holes of the wheel. I realized that when you install the wheels, if you don't perfectly line them up and slide them on on your first try (rarely happens), the anti-seize that transferred to the wheel mounting hub will contact the lugs.

 

[Kedis82ZE8]

I've never used anti-sieze on lug nuts myself. Never had issues removing but perhaps some areas of the country that use salt it could help. Plenty of other stuff (15 other things, toys and vehicles need maintenance throughout the year).... but this does change torque rating by like 20-30% (need to reduce) if you want to maintain the same recommended spec.

https://www.antiseize.com/PDFs/torque_specifications.pdf

 

[Conrad 16.5]

You spent $$ on an impact wrench but not on a torque wrench? Hmm…

I didn't say that I don't have a torque wrench, did I?

I have three. I just don't use them for lugnuts is all.