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- 2020 Mazda CX-9
Just completed a brake job on my 2020 CX-9 with 56,447 miles. I used a Stop One Brake kit which included pads, rotors, and all hardware. Link - https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) How did I choose this brand? So many to choose from, many I'm sure are good brands. Stop One had good reviews. (Sure there are some negatives, you'll always find that.) Wish they were made here in USA, alas from China. I liked that the kit came with everything needed to complete a brake job and then some. Hardware came with replacement slider boots and grease. I did however us Permatex Synthetic brake parts lubricant. Link - https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) I also used Permatex Anti Seize - https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) and CRC Disc Brake Quiet - https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
I used the following YouTube links - Rear Brakes - Rear Brake pad and rotor installation
- Front Brakes - Front Brake pad and rotor installation
Observations:
I used the following YouTube links - Rear Brakes - Rear Brake pad and rotor installation
- Front Brakes - Front Brake pad and rotor installation
Observations:
- So far, the Stop One Z23 pads and rotors have been just fine. I'm making a cross-country trip in two weeks and will report back. So far, good stopping power, not aggressive stopping.
- This is a do-able DIY project, provided you have a few tools. (Floor jack, stands, metric socket set, etc.) I would rate myself as probably a B+ mechanically.
- A number of things that I like doing this job myself. First, I enjoy the work. Second, I think you get a better job overall. I'm cleaning and lubing components that you know a shop isn't going to take the time to do. Third, you save some dough.
- I would recommend starting with the front wheels first. Took me less time per axle then the rear, probably because the pads went in easier than the rear. The rear ones took more finesse than the fronts. Nice to have a small "success" before moving on to more difficult.
- Make sure on the rear, to follow putting the park brake into service mode. (Found simple to do, just follow video. Although when putting them back into service the mechanic said, step on the brake, when he should have said step on the accelerator pedal. (I assumed he mixed that up, so I just stepped on the accelerator pedal.) Also, I didn't disconnect the rear actuator wire from the actuator, as I found plenty of slack to set it aside.
- Torque specs - I found varying suggestions on the torque specs. On a Mazda site, it said to use 25 ft lbs. for the caliper bolts all around. The front brake video says 65 ft lbs. all around. What I found was the fronts when dismantling were definitely 65 ft lbs., but the rears loosened easily, so I guessing rears are 25 and fronts 65. Anyway, that's what I went with. (65 ft lbs. front, 25 ft lbs. rear, caliper bracket bolts 80 ft lbs.)
- I had recently done a brake fluid flush, so the brake fluid was right to the max mark. I used a shop towel and took some out of the master cylinder, as when you push the caliper pistons in, fluid will go back into the master cylinder. And I put a shop rag under the master cylinder when pushing the caliper piston back in to make sure to catch any fluid.
- Stop One pad break-in - The Stop One brake pads have a break-in direction be sure to follow. I thought this was going to be a bigger deal than it was. Find a longer stretch of road that's quiet, where you can drive 40 mph and you'll be fine.
