So
@N7turbo , what is your complete process for the windows?
- Clean / clay bar the windows.
I clean the glass as part of the wash process, then if I'm going to apply a sealant, I hit them again with a magic eraser and rinseless wash. Then I find the clay makes a big difference in smoothness as the final part of the cleaning process.
- ? Polish the surfaces, to ensure it's as smooth and defect-free as can be -- with what product?
I haven't yet needed to do any polishing as my glass is pretty new.
- ? Surface prep to remove all remaining residues/chemicals, ahead of coating application -- with what product?
Gyeon Prep is what I'm using. I would also try Carpro Eraser. They seem interchangeable.
- Gyeon Quick View ceramic coating (the one with "up to 6mos" durability; looks like the Gyeon Q2 View EVO claims "up to 24mos" durability).
- Angelwax H2Go -- for repellency.
Questions, for the window treatment:
- Do you apply any product to the wiper blades themselves?
No.
- Have tyou had the Gyeon Quick View long enough to determine if it stands up to the "up to 6mos" claim?
Yes and I think it does. But it heavily depends on how you physically work the glass. If you're heavy on the wipers, no glass sealant will last more than about 3 months. I'm not heavy on mine but the middle had mostly worn off after 6 months, yet it was still good at the edges.
- How long does the Angelwax H2Go last, and under what conditions (temps, amount of rain, frequency of washing, etc) does it last that long?
From what I can gather, it's supposed to be not quite as long, maybe 3 months. I haven't had enough time with it yet. But the reason why I say it's better overall is because 1) it causes water to fly off at lower speeds, starting around 25mph, 2) it's really easy to apply and remove, and 3) you get a ton of product in that bottle so the cost per application is really low. I recommend ditching the trigger sprayer immediately though and just holding a microfiber "coating saver" type applicator on top of the bottle and flipping it over a couple of times to wet it. That is, if you're like me and the trigger clogs after your first use because you didn't know you have to remove it and rinse it out immediately after use. Maybe there is a better way, but that's what I'm doing currently.
Note that I only coat the front and rear glass. I don't find the sides benefit as much and I'm not sure what the long term effects are of coatings rubbing on or building up on the door brushes.
As for paint, my own CX-5's paint surface has enough micro-defects ('pings' from small stones and gravel) over the years that I haven't yet considered much beyond the basic polishing, coating process. To my knowledge, it's never had a paint protection film. I would assume before doing that sort of thing, or even a serious ceramic paint sealant, the paint would need to have those minor defects first dealt with.
Ideally, yes--because they will be untreatable until the coating wears off or is removed.
But I don't subscribe to paint correction being mandatory for every coating. I think if your paint is in decent condition and can live with a few minor scratches as every car has, and there's nothing major that bothers you, you can go ahead with the coating and plan to do a paint correction next time, if needed. But if you have swirls which you notice every time the sun hits the car, you should do at least a light polish to remove them.
If the paint is pretty beat up, consider a wrap instead of clear PPF as it's too late for the paint.