What have you done to your P5 today?

Lol only the rear ones scrape when I go over speed bumps and pull into my driveway. But its really not that bad. I'm glad I put them on though, all the rain in socal caused a few mudslides making most of the roads nasty.
 
Stock we have an FS-DE (130chp), if they swapped in a JDM motor you now have an FS-ZE (170chp). But honestly, I doubt they swapped in an FS-ZE. There is more to it than just a swap of the motor. They would have to swap out the ECU as well and a few other things. The easiest way to tell if you have a JDM FS-ZE is if there is a black air chamber box on top of your intake manifold. Can't miss it.

there was a black chamber box but not on top. it was beneath it. i do doubt it it was a ze. just a de from overseas. had to swap alot of stuff off the old to the new.
 
filled the passenger side motormount with some window weld silicon, and installed it on the car.
much better ride and shifting is even awesomer! +1
 
filled the passenger side motormount with some window weld silicon, and installed it on the car.
much better ride and shifting is even awesomer! +1

i need to fix my mounts... what was that you used and where can i get it. will it work if the rubber is broken already in the mount?
 
Topped off the coolant overflow tank and windshield washer fluid resorvoir. Also checked the oil....burned approx. a 1/2 qt over the last 1400 miles.....
 
i need to fix my mounts... what was that you used and where can i get it. will it work if the rubber is broken already in the mount?

well its better if its not ripped but i just got window weld silicon from Home Depot for like 5 bucks
and just filled it up.
 
Finally changed over my yucky nardi steering wheel with another I bought via Yahoo Auctions nearly 2 years ago! Took about 20mins to swap over, 15mins being delicate handling of the airbag trying to undo the clips - even though the battery was undone :o

Old:

IMG_4779.jpg


IMG_4780.jpg


New:

IMG_4781.jpg
 
Met up with Brian_K today. Cool guy.

Installed my one foglight cover, ordered a Proper+ bubble shift knob.

Still waiting for my V band flanges and IM.

Picking up Rear rotors tomorrow. Wed. I will change the rear rotors and pads...
 
Last edited:
Topped off the coolant overflow tank and windshield washer fluid resorvoir. Also checked the oil....burned approx. a 1/2 qt over the last 1400 miles.....

thanks for reminding me! i haven't checked any of these fluids in about a month!!

congrats on 100K tony! i'm apporaching 150K
 
Saturday I installed my new gas tank insulator, as you might imagine that went horribly but I got the job done (bloody rust).

Sunday I took apart my right rear brake to inspect the hub bearing for looseness (it seems alright). I noticed that the inner pad had some weird grease on it (on the rotor side). At first I thought that the caliper wasn't working anymore and that the grease was from earlier this year when I got my car rustproofed. But I've used my handbrake while driving since the rustproofing which should have cleaned off the pad... Do you guys have any ideas?

I also installed my new driver-side engine splash guard; only had to drill out 4 of the 5 bolts that hold it to the car...
 
rotated my tires and discovered the loud sound isn't a flat spotted tire, but probably a wheel bearing that's going bad
 
loud and shakes bad, especially at high speeds. it goes away if i turn the steering wheel a certain amount. and something else i cant remember that a friend said. he was 99% sure its the bearing. 156k on original part
 
Did you get the wheels balanced also? The wheel weights may have fell off or they were improperly placed. That would do the same thing at high speeds. Or you could have a bubble in one of the tires.

Picked up my rear rotors today. Going to get those done on Wednesday. Got a big meet coming up, picking some projectors from 808MP5 and a short shifter from another member.

=)
 
the problem is in the right front, so i rotated the tires, and it's still in the right front, which makes me think it's not a tire or wheel
 
Drove it 3 miles with a semi-seized pass side caliper......waited too long to do the brakes......so next up......BRAKES!!!
 
Ordered Vibrant J-bend O2 sim. Concerned the O2 sensor (with cel eliminator diy) is going to hit the AWR oil pan when I put on the AWR header, so this jbend deal should do the trick! Can't wait until next week or so once I get the AWR header and SLS catted midpipe combo in!
 
Just did the "Electric Windows Always on" mod - So I can put up/down windows without the key in the ignition, always handy for passengers who are lazy or too slow :p

Thanks AusOrion for finding the how-to, took no more then 5mins at 11pm at night! :D:p
 
Back