- :
- Plano, Texas, USA
No, PatrickGSR94’s 2014 CX-5 Touring has a 2.5L. Mazda offered 2.0L in all CX-5 trims for the first year US 2013 MY. Started 2014 MY Mazda started to offer 2.5L for CX-5 Touring and GT.I think it was a 2.0L in 2014
No, PatrickGSR94’s 2014 CX-5 Touring has a 2.5L. Mazda offered 2.0L in all CX-5 trims for the first year US 2013 MY. Started 2014 MY Mazda started to offer 2.5L for CX-5 Touring and GT.I think it was a 2.0L in 2014
How would the brand of oil cause the level to decrease as opposed to using another brand?
I'm with Patrick above.
I've been doing my own oil changes for more than 40 years. I've never prefilled the oil filter on any of my vehicles and I've never had a problem with this practice. The filter on the CX is installed upside down anyways, I'm sure that it fills very fast on its own.
yrwei52 I see showing your age again. hehe. But I am sure you can remember STP and placing in a pot of boiling water so it would thin out to pour into the engine. Then there was slick 50, and lets not forget those pills you dropped into the oil or breather cap from JC Whitney that promised your engine would be like new. And I suppose if you ran 20w50 or straight 60 like a Harley you might use less oil? But that thick ole oil that did pass into the combustion chambers fouled plugs in a very short time or because the oil took so darn long to warm up in the crankcase pressure raised and blew gaskets and seal. So I guess you "burn" less oil but it leaked more than what it burned by those thoughtful wanna-be cures.I can attest from my personal experience, othe than using thicker oil (and “STP” oil treatment in old days), diffrtent brand of oil with same viscosity sometimes does make difference on oil consumption. I believe it could have something to do with different additives used by different manufactures.
Tried that and also these metal balls dropped into the gas tank which is supposed to be dissolved with gasoline and “coating” the position rings and cylinder walls with a layer of metal particles so that the oil burning big V8 would become brand new ⋯and lets not forget those pills you dropped into the oil or breather cap from JC Whitney that promised your engine would be like new.
I bet you collected JCwhitney catalog and likely still have one to two with well-worn out pages from looking at them over and over and over.......Tried that and also these metal balls dropped into the gas tank which is supposed to be dissolved with gasoline and “coating” the position rings and cylinder walls with a layer of metal particles so that the oil burning big V8 would become brand new ⋯
Just a thought and I am quoting you only to be able to post it using a reference that gave descriptive measurements. Not to question your post.The 2.0 skyactiv engine takes 4.3 quarts per manual I believe. Historically I used to prefill the filter maybe 80% then add the remaining of the 4.3 quarts. Result = it measures low on the dip stick even after 100 miles of engine running. My first thought? Its burning oil. But wait.........Pouring 4.8 quarts or so takes me half way and pouring the whole 5 quarts takes me to the full line.
Pouring 5 quarts into my 2.5l skyactiv engine takes me in the middle. Personal experience sides with yrwei's comments on real world oil levels.
We have to also consider different manufacturers makes and different engines within said makes. Over the course of time they may issue TSBs on how to use the dip stick. Perhaps even change the actual design of the dip stick. Prime example were the 1.5l turbos in CRVs when they were having oil dilution issues.Just a thought and I am quoting you only to be able to post it using a reference that gave descriptive measurements. Not to question your post.
I am posting this as something I learned reading and don't know at the monument where my engineering articles are. So, suffice to say will have to take my word that I read them.
It's my understanding reading the engineering development of a few different vehicle manufactures is the 2 lines on the oil dip stick represent the safe and normal range of oil capacity. Unlike what we all got use to reading a dip stick on say early American cars and even many European cars i.e., add oil if you get to the lower line. To think if you are not at the top line is not full is not exactly true anymore. Oil has sight expansion when it comes to operating temperature so what you read cold will likely be different hot. I should mention I have read that the oil quantities were established on a complete new and dry engine. Those 4.8 or other amounts still should be checked mainly so that you do not go above or below the marks on the oil dip stick checking when the engine is hot. I have had pans off a few engines and the full marks on many of those when I looked seem to have a good area left to hold excess oil inadvertently added to the engine. My guess if you went maybe 1/8 inch above the top line on the dip stick you would still be above the oil pan mounting area and would not cause any harm to the engine. I am not suggesting filling it above the top mark. My conclusion is the lower and top marks are both normal oil capacity operating ranges to have your oil level at.
I doubt there will ever be a TSB on how to read an engine or transmission dip stick. Both are outlined clearly in most factory service guides. Some even say to bring the engine to operating temperature to re-check the oil levels.We have to also consider different manufacturers makes and different engines within said makes. Over the course of time they may issue TSBs on how to use the dip stick. Perhaps even change the actual design of the dip stick. Prime example were the 1.5l turbos in CRVs when they were having oil dilution issues.
I doubt there will ever be a TSB on how to read an engine or transmission dip stick. Both are outlined clearly in most factory service guides. Some even say to bring the engine to operating temperature to re-check the oil levels.
The industry semi standard dips sticks are sort of universal markings on most all engines now manufactured from about 2002. I currently engineered and have a prototype that my marketer is looking at interested parties to sell the design concept that will practically take the guess work out of reading the engine oil dip stick.
It was not my Mazda in case you were wondering.
But ⋯⋯ It's my understanding reading the engineering development of a few different vehicle manufactures is the 2 lines on the oil dip stick represent the safe and normal range of oil capacity.
My 2016 CX-5 owner’s manual says:Unlike what we all got use to reading a dip stick on say early American cars and even many European cars i.e., add oil if you get to the lower line. To think if you are not at the top line is not full is not exactly true anymore.
Yes warm oil expands a bit but more oil will be drained into the oil pan when oil is cold. These 2 factory basically offsets each other and the result is the readouts beteeen warm and cold oil are about the same on the oil level:Oil has sight expansion when it comes to operating temperature so what you read cold will likely be different hot.
If the 4.8 quarts stated in Mazda’s manual were established on a complete new and dry 2.5L engine, the oil level would be even below the mid point of Full and Add marks if we use specified 4.8 quarts for the oil change.I should mention I have read that the oil quantities were established on a complete new and dry engine.
Yes, I know.... look carefully at the illustrations. But .... I talk to the engineers at a few auto manufacture engineers regularly... so the best thing is stay with what you think works for you. It will work.But ⋯
huh? Owners manual states 4.8 US quarts for oil change with filter on the 2.5L. That's what I've always done. The oil change kits that I've bought online from Priority and other places always include 5 quarts of Mazda Moly oil along with the filter, and I leave about 6 fl ounces in the last quart bottle (0.2 quarts = 6.4 ounces).Are you saying you put in Mazda specified 4.8 quarts for oil change on your 2014 CX-5 2.5L? If that’s the case, no wonder you may need to add some oil between oil changes, as you actually need ~5.25 quarts to make the oil level reaching the Full mark of the dipstick for the oil change.
Yes, I also always use manufacture specified oil amount on oil change for every car I’ve owned. And every car the oil amount specified will be exactly at the Full mark of the dipstick. Only my first Mazda, a 2016 CX-5, the specified oil amount for oil change is way short!
My guess (???) is when he does his oil and filter changing, has the front of the engine raised by floor ramps thus the oil will drain more completely because of the location of the drain plug, he lets the oil drip to almost a completely stop before replacing the drain plug. Wipes the oil filter area of all the old oil and more than likely does it on a warm or hot engine so the oil will drain back into the pan quicker and somewhat more completely. And after replacing with say 4.8 quarts drive the car and then rechecks when the oil has gotten nicely expanded. Then to reach the top mark adds the addition oil and then magic 5.25 quarts.Where are you getting 5.25 quarts from?
I remember Wynn selling the "tune up in a can" additive. I always wondered how they got spark plugs and a set of points in those little cans.....Tried that and also these metal balls dropped into the gas tank which is supposed to be dissolved with gasoline and “coating” the position rings and cylinder walls with a layer of metal particles so that the oil burning big V8 would become brand new ⋯
OK. Like I said, that’s why you need some oil between oil changes.huh? Owners manual states 4.8 US quarts for oil change with filter on the 2.5L. That's what I've always done. The oil change kits that I've bought online from Priority and other places always include 5 quarts of Mazda Moly oil along with the filter, and I leave about 6 fl ounces in the last quart bottle (0.2 quarts = 6.4 ounces).
From my and many other DIYers experience.Where are you getting 5.25 quarts from?
Your guesses unfortunately are mostly wrong. I use a very low self-made 2X10 “ramp” just to raise the CX-5 front a bit:My guess (???) is when he does his oil and filter changing, has the front of the engine raised by floor ramps thus the oil will drain more completely because of the location of the drain plug, he lets the oil drip to almost a completely stop before replacing the drain plug. Wipes the oil filter area of all the old oil and more than likely does it on a warm or hot engine so the oil will drain back into the pan quicker and somewhat more completely. And after replacing with say 4.8 quarts drive the car and then rechecks when the oil has gotten nicely expanded. Then to reach the top mark adds the addition oil and then magic 5.25 quarts.
I picked up Mazda moly & filter today and plan to change this weekend. So some have used all 5 quarts?
Interesting that some needed 5 or more quarts for oil change. Did you let drain for an extended period or was vehicle jacked up differently?
FSM shows the following for dry engines:
Engine oil capacity [SKYACTIV-G 2.5] (approx. quantity)
Oil replacement: 4.3 L {4.5 US qt, 3.8 lmp qt}
Oil and oil filter replacement: 4.5 L {4.8 US qt, 4.0 lmp qt}
Total (dry engine, without oil cooler): 5.4 L {5.7 US qt, 4.8 Imp qt}
Total (dry engine, with oil cooler): 5.5 L {5.8 US qt, 4.8 Imp qt}
Mine shows about 1/2 quart low after 4.8 quart change. I changed on ramps and let it drain for over an hour.
It basically took 5.3 quarts to get get it exactly at the top dot. I must have really drained it out.
I've used 0W-30 synthetic in another car before but this 0W-20 seems almost like water...wow that stuff is thin.
I've changed oil in all of my cars for the last 25 years but I am always nervous the first time changing it in a new car. This is an easy one... and will be much easier with the Fumoto on there next time.
Nothing was overly tight. A little more spillage out of oil filter than I expected but not a biggie.