Adding Sub and Amp question (2022 CX-5)

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2022 CX-5 CE
Looking to add a line out converter for a sub, and amp on 22 CX-5 non Bose system.

In need of a diagram for which, and where the speaker wires are behind the glove box to tap into for the LOC.
 
It all has to do with how a DSP can do signal delay and phase shifting to get all of the speakers to play together correctly. (As an aside, some people call this "time alignment", but that's absolutely incorrect terminology. Without breaking the Laws of Physics, time can't be aligned. Time can't be changed. Time is the 4th dimension, time just *is*.)

Anyway, I can totally understand how you don't get it, especially having never played with one before. It almost seems like magic when you learn how to use one and get everything in harmony.

 
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It all has to do with how a DSP can do signal delay and phase shifting to get all of the speakers to play together correctly. (As an aside, some people call this "time alignment", but that's absolutely incorrect terminology. Without breaking the Laws of Physics, time can't be aligned. Time can't be changed. Time is the 4th dimension, time just *is*.)

Anyway, I can totally understand how you don't get it, especially having never played with one before. It almost seems like magic when you learn how to use one and get everything in harmony.

So given that, why would Bose systems have a front centre speaker?
 
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Hi, I’m hoping someone in this thread may be able to help me out as well. I’m trying to install an Alpine PWD-X5 in my 2022 CE. I am not using it to power the speakers, I only want to use the subwoofer.

My question is, how do I get signal to the unit? Do I have to get some sort of converter to RCA?

I would SINCERELY appreciate any help with this!
 
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Like nearly all modern amplifiers, there's no need to add a Line Out Converter. That system will take speaker level inputs directly. LOC's are pretty much a thing of the past.
 
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That’s what I’ve been reading, but if I’m keeping factory speakers, would I just splice into the rear speakers?

This is what I’ve got.
Like nearly all modern amplifiers, there's no need to add a Line Out Converter. That system will take speaker level inputs directly. LOC's are pretty much a thing of the past
 

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So reading between the lines here, it seems like people are upgrading speakers, amps, signal processors, but not upgrading head units? No judgement, I appreciate the problems that entails, just wondering. I am disgusted with the sound in my new Mazda, and have quite a bit of high end audio equipment I could be installing, but am not thinking about this too much because of the stupidly tight OEM integration between Infotainment, HUD and NAV (I have not psyched myself up to just tear it all out, and not sure the wife would be forgiving). I can't see upgrading downstream components when my source is garbage, but can appreciate that even AMP/DSP/Speaker upgrades will still move the needle forward appreciably.
 
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So reading between the lines here, it seems like people are upgrading speakers, amps, signal processors, but not upgrading head units? No judgement, I appreciate the problems that entails, just wondering. I am disgusted with the sound in my new Mazda, and have quite a bit of high end audio equipment I could be installing, but am not thinking about this too much because of the stupidly tight OEM integration between Infotainment, HUD and NAV (I have not psyched myself up to just tear it all out, and not sure the wife would be forgiving). I can't see upgrading downstream components when my source is garbage, but can appreciate that even AMP/DSP/Speaker upgrades will still move the needle forward appreciably.
I agree, so what are you going to do?
 
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So reading between the lines here, it seems like people are upgrading speakers, amps, signal processors, but not upgrading head units? No judgement, I appreciate the problems that entails, just wondering. I am disgusted with the sound in my new Mazda, and have quite a bit of high end audio equipment I could be installing, but am not thinking about this too much because of the stupidly tight OEM integration between Infotainment, HUD and NAV (I have not psyched myself up to just tear it all out, and not sure the wife would be forgiving). I can't see upgrading downstream components when my source is garbage, but can appreciate that even AMP/DSP/Speaker upgrades will still move the needle forward appreciably.

I upgraded my HU to a Kenwood Excelon, but I have a first gen CX-5. I was able to do it because those still had a standard double DIN HU as stock equipment, not the integrated "infotainment" crap.
 
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I agree, so what are you going to do?
Really, no idea yet! I'm debating the route taken here though, sound will at least be better, and if I do replace the head, then downstream speaker upgrades will still preserve their value, but DSP and amps would probably be replaced as I prefer to run a pure digital signal as far down the chain as possible. I suspect I'll need to wait a few years to find aftermarket that is usable enough and appropriate. While I've done custom work for build-my-own, its a huge time-sink, and with supply chain problems over the last few years, component prices have gone up 200-300%. Part of why I was interested in this discussion, perhaps upgrading downstream from the head is a 'good enough' answer. Sort of frustrating to have to buy some components though, I have some excellent Mosconi DSP and Amp products, but its all designed for digital/TOS connectivity that I won't get out of the stock head. And frankly I'm not educated enough yet on the new vehicle, I don't know enough about options for alternator upgrades to drive bigger amps, nor what that would do to warranty (vs not touching the alternator, just working with small amps and conservative subs). So I'm on the learning curve at this point. I can't even find 2023 service manuals or wiring at this point, so working with old info just to get a feel for what I am in for.
 
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Really, no idea yet! I'm debating the route taken here though, sound will at least be better, and if I do replace the head, then downstream speaker upgrades will still preserve their value, but DSP and amps would probably be replaced as I prefer to run a pure digital signal as far down the chain as possible. I suspect I'll need to wait a few years to find aftermarket that is usable enough and appropriate. While I've done custom work for build-my-own, its a huge time-sink, and with supply chain problems over the last few years, component prices have gone up 200-300%. Part of why I was interested in this discussion, perhaps upgrading downstream from the head is a 'good enough' answer. Sort of frustrating to have to buy some components though, I have some excellent Mosconi DSP and Amp products, but its all designed for digital/TOS connectivity that I won't get out of the stock head. And frankly I'm not educated enough yet on the new vehicle, I don't know enough about options for alternator upgrades to drive bigger amps, nor what that would do to warranty (vs not touching the alternator, just working with small amps and conservative subs). So I'm on the learning curve at this point. I can't even find 2023 service manuals or wiring at this point, so working with old info just to get a feel for what I am in for.
Maybe you could just replace those atrocious tweeters an put up with mediocre sound an enjoy the drive anyway until somebody finds the key. It won't be Mazda for sure. Heads in the sand.
 
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, I have some excellent Mosconi DSP and Amp products, but its all designed for digital/TOS connectivity that I won't get out of the stock head.

Okay, so here's an idea. You have Mosconi stuff, which means you're just like me: you actually care about how your stereo sounds. (I run Linear Power, which is the same tier as your stuff).

Use your phone with a USB OTG dongle, and then you can get a digital signal to feed your Mosconi DSP.

You can retain your factory head for radio by using it's (crappy) analog outputs, but when you want to seriously listen to your music, switch the Mosconi to the Aux input, and fire up the flac files on your phone.

It's far from an elegant solution, but it is a solution, and the only one I can think up right now.

I'm hoping iDataLink gets off of their butts and creates a digital interface for the latest Mazdas, but it hasn't happened yet.
 
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Okay, so here's an idea. You have Mosconi stuff, which means you're just like me: you actually care about how your stereo sounds. (I run Linear Power, which is the same tier as your stuff).

Use your phone with a USB OTG dongle, and then you can get a digital signal to feed your Mosconi DSP.

You can retain your factory head for radio by using it's (crappy) analog outputs, but when you want to seriously listen to your music, switch the Mosconi to the Aux input, and fire up the flac files on your phone.

It's far from an elegant solution, but it is a solution, and the only one I can think up right now.

I'm hoping iDataLink gets off of their butts and creates a digital interface for the latest Mazdas, but it hasn't happened yet.
That's a great idea! I need to think about it a bit, but this is definitely a productive avenue to dig into. Agreed in iDataLink!
 
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It all has to do with how a DSP can do signal delay and phase shifting to get all of the speakers to play together correctly. (As an aside, some people call this "time alignment", but that's absolutely incorrect terminology. Without breaking the Laws of Physics, time can't be aligned. Time can't be changed. Time is the 4th dimension, time just *is*.)
Slow reply, but: "Au contraire, mon ami!". "Time alignment" refers to aligning the waveforms wrt time. I.e. delaying some outputs so that the soundwaves are aligned in time when they reach the listener's ear. Nothing to do with Dr.Who! :D
 
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"Time Alignment", just like "Subsonic Filter", were very incorrect terms coined by someone in the car audio community some many years ago who had zero scientific experience. Unfortunately, instead of being corrected, those terms stuck.

Subsonic means slower than the speed of sound. Sound can't be slower that itself, as that simply doesn't make sense. The correct term there should be infrasonic, which refers to a frequency lower than what can be naturally perceived.
 
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"Time Alignment", just like "Subsonic Filter", were very incorrect terms coined by someone in the car audio community some many years ago who had zero scientific experience. Unfortunately, instead of being corrected, those terms stuck.

No, time alignment (as I said before) is a valid term, and was coined long before car audio was 'a thing'. See: Loudspeaker time alignment - Wikipedia

On the other hand, I completely agree with you about "Subsonic" :)
 
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I just did a full upgrade on my 2021 non Bose. There is a box under the passenger seat that gives you access to the speaker wires.
Hi, Newbie here. So if I want to add an amplifier, can I use the box/wires under the passenger seat or do I need to remove head unit and wire from there?
 
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