AutoXRacer
Member
Why is Red Line a poor value...?
My reasoning is, if various professional race teams use a product, then its good enough for me. If their $100K engine is good enough for Red Line, so is my $6K engine... (lol2)
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Regarding synthetic Oil change
- Thread starter Hyun
- Start date
Why is Red Line a poor value...?
My reasoning is, if various professional race teams use a product, then its good enough for me. If their $100K engine is good enough for Red Line, so is my $6K engine... (lol2)
Why is Red Line a poor value...?
My reasoning is, if various professional race teams use a product, then its good enough for me. If their $100K engine is good enough for Red Line, so is my $6K engine... (lol2)
The performance of Redline in the Pruzink distributed test was no better than most of the oils tested yet the price was very high.
Performance/Price = value
Race teams get this stuff for free and change it every few hundred miles. This does not seem to me like a valid reason for choosing an oil for a street vehicle. YMMV
I am letting go of my Mobil 1 bias and searching for the truth.
-enganear
AutoXRacer
Member
Race teams get this stuff for free and change it every few hundred miles. This does not seem to me like a valid reason for choosing an oil for a street vehicle. YMMV
-enganear
My only comment to that is, that a race engine in a couple of hundred miles equates to thousands of miles on a street engine. Race engines are pushed to much greater limits than street engines can ever dream of.
Consumer oils are sold for that purpose...general public use, formulated for joe blow and his 1984 Ford or 2006 Kia. Street engines will never, ever see the stresses a race car engine will experience.
Thats my reasoning... As far as price, they are not that much more expensive than Amsoil, maybe a buck or two. I've never used anything less than a full synthetic; even in my lawn mower... (2thumbs)
To each's own I guess... (thumb)
do you work for that site or just have a major boner for it?
I do not work for them, so it must be the boner thing. (inout)
It is just a forum like this one except only about oil.
-enganear
My only comment to that is, that a race engine in a couple of hundred miles equates to thousands of miles on a street engine. Race engines are pushed to much greater limits than street engines can ever dream of.
Consumer oils are sold for that purpose...general public use, formulated for joe blow and his 1984 Ford or 2006 Kia. Street engines will never, ever see the stresses a race car engine will experience.
Thats my reasoning... As far as price, they are not that much more expensive than Amsoil, maybe a buck or two. I've never used anything less than a full synthetic; even in my lawn mower... (2thumbs)
To each's own I guess... (thumb)
I agree that race engines require very good film strength. Royal Purple blows every other oil away for this parameter. The Royal Purple racing (only) oil would suck on a street engine because of the additive package. A street engine oil has to be able to handle cold starts, suspension of wear and blow-by particles, fuel dilution, etc. All I am saying is that an oil that performs well in a race engine may not be the best choice for a street engine.
I use synthetic in everything as well, my mower and my air compressor. I am still looking for real data regarding oil performance. I plan to have an oil analysis done and will post the results here as well as BITOG as part of the search for the truth. I encourage everyone to have an analysis done so we can get past the butt dyno oil reviews and uses real data to make intelligent choices. It would be great to eventually have a sticky for UOAs.
oh so it is a forum where people lie, exaggerate, and spread rumors... but about oil... and you believe anything on it?
Yeah, you have to keep the BS filter set to high, just like this forum. I do like the section where people post UOAs and then they are discussed by acknowledged experts.
-enganear
///M Compact
Member
Here's my post from last month- a summary of my first UOA:
>>>I just received the results of the first used oil analysis on my MS3. The car has 10K and the Mobil 1 5W-30 was run for 5K with a Mazda filter. The oil viscosity, flashpoint, and TBN were good, but it showed high iron and copper numbers. Most of the people on BITOG think that the engine is still wearing in and that the iron and copper numbers will settle down by 15K-20K. I guess we'll see. I wonder what would happen if you ran conventional oil for 7.5K? Nothing good I'd bet...<<<
>>>I just received the results of the first used oil analysis on my MS3. The car has 10K and the Mobil 1 5W-30 was run for 5K with a Mazda filter. The oil viscosity, flashpoint, and TBN were good, but it showed high iron and copper numbers. Most of the people on BITOG think that the engine is still wearing in and that the iron and copper numbers will settle down by 15K-20K. I guess we'll see. I wonder what would happen if you ran conventional oil for 7.5K? Nothing good I'd bet...<<<
nativebackup1
Member
- :
- 1997 mazda protege
you probably already changed ur oil but i thot i'd tell you that i changed my oil in my 97 protege an used mobil 1 and its one of the best things ive done to protect the engine-11 years old and it runs like new!
Here's my post from last month- a summary of my first UOA:
>>>I just received the results of the first used oil analysis on my MS3. The car has 10K and the Mobil 1 5W-30 was run for 5K with a Mazda filter. The oil viscosity, flashpoint, and TBN were good, but it showed high iron and copper numbers. Most of the people on BITOG think that the engine is still wearing in and that the iron and copper numbers will settle down by 15K-20K. I guess we'll see. I wonder what would happen if you ran conventional oil for 7.5K? Nothing good I'd bet...<<<
I'm learning that engines with chain drive cams usually show high iron numbers because of the wear that occurs in each and every link and roller joint and contact with the sprockets.
Who did you use for the analysis? Blackstone? Could you repost those numbers here to give everyone a taste of what a UOA can reveal?
-enganear
Aaron that is a great real world story. I do favor the Purple. Used to be Mobil one all day til I saw some some physical tests. But good point about chemical reactivity Don't know anything about it except car craft article about zinc additives. I want the best oil for my mazda in her Castrol syntec by dealership at 3000 WHAT is best for Turbo cars . Please help me resolve this !
Oh yes I recall that race oils and tranny lubes that have an additive like calcium { like what?] creates little one time use cushions Be careful of Pure race oils they have short lifespans Sorry just remembered that. And we need to be foused on the Turbo application Sleep.thanks
Last edited:
///M Compact
Member
Who did you use for the analysis? Blackstone? Could you repost those numbers here to give everyone a taste of what a UOA can reveal?
-enganear
I used Blackstone; here are the complete results:
Engine 2.3L Turbo, direct injection
Miles on engine 9838
Miles on oil 5046
Date sampled 12/31/07
Make Up Oil 0
OEM Mazda Filter
Mobil 1 5w30
Aluminum 4
Chromium 1
Iron 40
Copper 83
Lead 2
Tin 0
Moly 80
Nickel 1
Manganese 1
Silver 0
Ti 0
Potassium 2
Boron 38
Silicon 12
Sodium 6
Calcium 2634
Magnesium 11
Phosphorus 624
Zinc 808
Barium 2
Sus Visc @ 210F: 56.2 (should be 55-62)
cST Visc @ 100 C: (9.13 should be 8.8-11.1)
Flashpoint in F: 375 (should be >365)
Fuel %: <0.5 (should be <2.0)
Antifreeze: 0.0
Water %: 0.0 (should be <0.1)
Insolubles %: 0.4 (should be <0.6)
TBN: 2.9
I just had my oil changed with castrol syntec, coming from my GTI I always used castrol full synthetic and it has never let me down. Seems like you cannot go wrong with the top competitors such as castrol, Mobil1, Amsoil and Royal Purple. I actually do not follow the schedule with normal synthetic I actually change it every 3000 miles and my cars run smooth and reliably!
Just my opinion here, and while I use synthetics I'm not married to any brands. One thing I wanted to chime with is that it might be better to use conventional oils during break in, wherein you want some wear to take place , and help seat the rings fully.
Anyone have an opinion on that thought?
Anyone have an opinion on that thought?
Just my opinion here, and while I use synthetics I'm not married to any brands. One thing I wanted to chime with is that it might be better to use conventional oils during break in, wherein you want some wear to take place , and help seat the rings fully.
Anyone have an opinion on that thought?
I have heard the same about break in. I had dealer do oil [conventional ] changes at 1000, 3000, 5000. Good point also!
AutoXRacer
Member
If I wanna use AMSOIL what kind am I supposed to get?
Any 5W-30 will do...
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/asl.aspx
Just my opinion here, and while I use synthetics I'm not married to any brands. One thing I wanted to chime with is that it might be better to use conventional oils during break in, wherein you want some wear to take place , and help seat the rings fully.
Anyone have an opinion on that thought?
Your engine will break in normally with synthetic. And...
This is a common misconception. Synthetic oils will not harm your engine during break in. They are designed to work in your engine and as long as you use the right weight of oil you will be fine(if they did harm the engine do you tihnk BMW would ship their cars with syntetic?). This was something that they pounded into our heads at school when I was in there to become a mechanic.
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