The steel brackets from the rear of the car? 11 pounds.
Oh I can't wait
No idea for those, I marked everything else removed. I have to make new shims when I use my other set of cams anyways.
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Protege5: Harder, not Smarter!
- Thread starter Tamn
- Start date
The steel brackets from the rear of the car? 11 pounds.
Oh I can't wait
No idea for those, I marked everything else removed. I have to make new shims when I use my other set of cams anyways.
My super secret uber power cams (wink)
11lbs just for the two brackets???? Damn..... well I know two brackets I missed pulling out!
11lbs just for the two brackets???? Damn..... well I know two brackets I missed pulling out!
11 lbs for the 2 angular braces, the 2 floor brackets that the rear seats set on, and the bracket where your spare jack would sit.
So like 5 pieces of steel, the 2 floor brackets weighed more than 7 pounds by themselves.
- :
- 2002 Mazda Protege
Polish...an iron block? Lol I think u should look into what metals can be polished and what metals cant...
- :
- 2002 Mazda Protege
and im sure it'll rust pretty quick now that it has no protective coating over it...the main reason I think its not really a good idea. I would just powdercoat it with a chrome powder, not quite as reflective, but still noticeable.
Edit: or ceramic coat the whole block, even better
Edit: or ceramic coat the whole block, even better
Not disagreeing with the oxidation, but it can be polished to a very high shine and if kept waxed or oiled it can be kept very good looking if the person takes care of it. Take a look at armor and sword collectors for example.
I'm looking into getting it powdercoated with a clear coat actually.
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I believe even more gains can be had with a bit of research and development.
I think you can get that key down to 0.3 oz with a dremel.
Installshield 2
Gothenburg Superiority
exactly...Oxidation is only a surface problem...the exposed iron will get a coating of rust, but the rust itself seals the 'fresh' metal underneath...just like brake rotors...A coating of some sort would be great for stopping it, but surface rust on a block only really hurts appearance to begin with...it would take hundreds of years for rust to actually penetrate the thick iron to any detrimental degree...
that is completely different than a sheet metal unibody though...Thats thin layers of steel pressed onto itself, the metal equivalent of ply-wood...water can whick inbetween the layers, and eat the metal alive from all directions...just pointing out; a rusty engine block versus rusty body panels...one doesn't hurt, the other...you have a year or two max if you don't do anything about it...
A dollar per sanding disk? Who are they kidding, let me buy 5 and make my own, they cost me about 4 cents each for any grit I want. Psh 4$ a gallon for gas is fair, overpriced abrasives, hell no I can get sand anywhere, ever take a look at a beach?
My helper, hes good at chewing 30 grit sandpaper. (rolleyes) But...he never sits still for a good picture, so the blurr sums it up nicely.
I finally found a "fairly" priced used TIG welder, I've been scouring ebay/craigslist for months. I drove 900 miles round way to pick this guy up from a random craigslist guy. I drove from the Canadian Border, down through Seattle, then east over the mountain pass. Which was a raging blizzard of ice and snow, I scared myself to death spinning around at 45 mph. I did the rest of the mountain at 10 mph, while Mazda CX-9's blazed past me at 40. I hate driving in snow....and RWD sucks, hindsight I should have put bricks in the back. I was sliding all over the place like a drift car.
After the mountain pass of evil, I drove nearly 6 hours through what can only be considered the middle of nowhere. Washingtons Desert is what it really is, I drove through it and came out at Spokane, and continued into Idaho where I was shocked to find gas under a dollar cheaper per gallon than my hometown where I started the trip.
This welder is used but has only 4 hours on it, the guy was going to start up a business with his son, who was deployed to Iraq so he decided he was done lugging it around with him. I don't blame him, it weighs somewhere around 500 pounds with the cart.
Starting to look pretty nice...for 30 hours of work, (boom05)
Some of you might remember how about a year back I was talking about building a CNC machine. Well about 12 months later and it's starting to look like something. I started assembling the motherboard and stepper motor arduino drivers yesterday. Sure gonna be neat to be able to make my own stuff.
What did you do today? Oh I chopped the back of my car off....(rolleyes)
Another 200 or so spot welds drilled out, I'm getting pretty good at this point. It is very very time consuming and it really hurts my back hunched over for several days drilling and hammering crap at weird angles.
Feel free to mention how my cars going to split in half around me at any moment, k bye!
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31N007
31N007
- :
- Mazda Protege5
1998 Ford Contour SVT
2017 GTI DSG PP
2007 4Runner
your cars gonna split in half around you
Thats pretty nifty cant wait to see the result, thats for sure. I like the polishing job
As far as the rear bumper goes, are you gonna fiberglass it or w/e it is you did with the boot lid and hood? (forgive my forgetfullness) if you're going to do a mould, perhaps you could borrow a members sport20 bumper? Those are a little more shallow weight savings galore! (I think)
Thats pretty nifty
cant wait to see the result, thats for sure. I like the polishing job As far as the rear bumper goes, are you gonna fiberglass it or w/e it is you did with the boot lid and hood? (forgive my forgetfullness) if you're going to do a mould, perhaps you could borrow a members sport20 bumper? Those are a little more shallow
weight savings galore! (I think)iamthewheelman
Member
That CNC machine is impressive stuff! Good work (Y)
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