Protege5: Harder, not Smarter!
- Thread starter Tamn
- Start date
I'll weigh it and let you know when I'm finished... (thumb)
These "structural reinforcements" are little more than plates with holes for the rear seats and trim panels. Also...less weight load back there...less stress applied to the frame...and I'm running a strut brace which is not a factory option and is a much more efficient use of bracing.
Yep, new wiring.
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- 2002 Mazda Protege
All this light weight stuff, and still on stock pulleys? Need to get some alum pulleys, not sure who makes them anymore. I know OBX made a lightweight underdrive pulley since I had one on my car, thing was like 2lbs and the stocker is HEAVY.
I haven't gotten to engine modification yet.
I'm planning on making some myself.
Anyways...
Removed gas tank, the line that I could never get at running from the tank to the emissions up front, the stock fuel filler hoses and tubes. Drilled out the heatshield under the rear muffler location, removed the pedal assemblys, driveshaft and exhaust.
I found that my engine stand (which has mounted more than a half dozen big block engines) had holes smaller than the protege's, by about 30%, which I found pretty funny. Must be all that madddd power they make.
I had to get the arms bored out to fit the protege bolts. Then the stock bolts were going to be way to short, so I had some longer ones ordered up.
Got the block on the stand and removed all the exterior hoses, brackets, pumps, etc.
Still to do, cut the spot welds off the layer of sheet metal covering the front firewall to get at the sound deadening behind it. Going to be tricky because of the way the pedal assembly brackets are attached. I might end up just cutting the entire firewall out and welding in a new one entirely if it becomes too much of a problem.
Next, slicing the inner panels of the doors off so its just the skins and the door bars. Then I have to take a look at the front end, still considering a tubular carbon piece over the "conventional" metal tube construction.
We'll see...anyways, here's a few pics, sorry for the lack of them. It's a LOT of work and I really am not focused on taking good pictures at this point. Car is basically just a rolling frame at this point. It only has the frame, the suspension pieces and....the doors? So much work for a single person, trying to not think about how much time this is going to take but at this point I'd be pleased to see a running car in 12 months. It is a TON of work for a single person who has never done anything like this before. I will be honest, I don't even know where to start on a lot of the stuff I will eventually have to do. But I am excited to learn and build it myself, I have some pretty radical idea's that I think you will really enjoy seeing down the road.
Rambling...Anyways...keep on zoomin
CR3 Motorsports
Member
Have you thought about doig an aluminum exhaust?
31N007
31N007
- :
- Mazda Protege5
1998 Ford Contour SVT
2017 GTI DSG PP
2007 4Runner
Back a few pages there was a discussion on it. I think Tamn planned on dumping the exh out on the pass side fender IIRC. If Tamn could chime in and correct me if im wrong, I don't wanna put words in his mouth. RE the alum exh, guess over time they get too warm or something? Again, Tamn could better articulate on that. 
Maxx Mazda
Contributor
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- Stock P5
I have a feeling with all the body flex this car is going to have, that it will handle like s***. A strut tower bar does not a stiff car make...
iamthewheelman
Member
If he stitch welds the whole thing back up he should be okay, along with at least a roll bar. If not then Maxx Mazda has a point.
Maxx Mazda
Contributor
- :
- Stock P5
I have a feeling all that welding will be too heavy.....
31N007
31N007
- :
- Mazda Protege5
1998 Ford Contour SVT
2017 GTI DSG PP
2007 4Runner
Just a somewhat farfetched suggestion: maybe this is where we might see a bamboo reinforcement?? Just tack on a few pins or something to act as anchors and create a few x-braces? Then a proper rear strut brace (thats the bit that goes in the hatch area, right?) to secure it more?
Im sure Tamn has a plan already. Or if not, he has a path he plans on heading down.
*actually, I dont know if the x-braces would do a whole lot in conjunction with a strut bar, to go back to Maxx's point...
Im sure Tamn has a plan already. Or if not, he has a path he plans on heading down.
*actually, I dont know if the x-braces would do a whole lot in conjunction with a strut bar, to go back to Maxx's point...
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I'm honestly not worrried about it, It will be caged eventually, just a matter of when. Also planning to seam weld everything once I purchase a welder. More than likely it will be either caged, or welder or both before it ever actually see's the road.
Back a few pages there was a discussion on it. I think Tamn planned on dumping the exh out on the pass side fender IIRC. If Tamn could chime in and correct me if im wrong, I don't wanna put words in his mouth. RE the alum exh, guess over time they get too warm or something? Again, Tamn could better articulate on that.
Exactly.
Aluminum exhaust's get too hot when running for extended temperatures at racing speeds, they might work for daily commuting if careful. I'm still planning on the side dump at this point.
Mark all the bolts with an engraver.
Light's not very good so it doesn't really show up, but I put about 12 hours into sanding the block today. (and you thought polishing a valvecover was bad? lol)
I got the engine apart, washed the block, looks good except for some rust in the cooling channels. I'm gonna plug the holes and fill it with vinegar and let is sit a few days later on to get it out.
I'm going to smooth the entire block and then polish it, should take me about....60 hours for the block alone...
So yea...that's my next 2 weeks...spitting iron filings and sanding till 2 am every night. Ah, the life.
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31N007
31N007
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- Mazda Protege5
1998 Ford Contour SVT
2017 GTI DSG PP
2007 4Runner
On those valve tappets (or buckets- idk the right names), you know which spots they go in when you put em back, right? I heard you should make sure they go back where they came from so they dont start wearing unevenly? At least, thats what I was told when I took my head apart.
it looks good so far im proud to be able to say I saw all those parts when I took my motor apart. Since you had the motor out of the car, I can imagine you took the tranny off to get to the upper oil pan bolts... I had to drill two holes and rotate the flywheel... Never again!
it looks good so far
im proud to be able to say I saw all those parts when I took my motor apart. Since you had the motor out of the car, I can imagine you took the tranny off to get to the upper oil pan bolts... I had to drill two holes and rotate the flywheel... Never again!Installshield 2
Gothenburg Superiority
^^the tappets themselves don't really care what spot they're in...the only wear item of the tappets is the adjustment discs placed in them...I took all 8 exhaust side tappets out recently and their diameter and 'height' were identical, as well as the shim seat depth...even after 155,000 miles...The 'shims' however; those measured out to a couple different thicknesses...The tappets are only available from mazda in one size, which illustrates they'll fit over any valve you want...but again, those adjustment shims are available in nearly 25 different thicknesses iirc...and those are what properly set tappet lash...
so unless you remove all the discs from each tappet...you DO want them going back in the same place, or your clearances will be lost...but as far as mixing the tappets, thats not a big deal as long as you put the right shim with the right cam lobe...
so unless you remove all the discs from each tappet...you DO want them going back in the same place, or your clearances will be lost...but as far as mixing the tappets, thats not a big deal as long as you put the right shim with the right cam lobe...
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Maxx Mazda
Contributor
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- Stock P5
Exactly. The shims have to be returned to the right cam lobe, they are all different.
I've still got a lot to learn about what makes up an engine. I have a feeling my piston ring fixing was only a scratch on the surface. I should've worded what I said a little better!
