Piggyback installed

Installshield 2 said:
ok man...It is fine if you can't answer those questions...I am not targeting you at all...

Maybe I am biasing everyone's purchasing habits towards my own...I won't buy anything for a car unless I know exactly how it works and what it does...Some people may not go about it that way, and just leave a system such as this as a "I don't know what it does, but my car runs great" type of mod...If you are happy with it, then MPNick was successful...so I apologize, if you like it and it is not causing issues that is great...

So I guess possibly I am attempting to help MPNicks sales...I know a lot of guys view these types of mods the same way I do...If guys like me had all the info they could ever dream of right in front of them, he wouldn't be able to keep up with the demand...most likely my biggest fear is that MPNick does not know the answer to some of these questions, and popping out bogus claims that are really going cause some guys a lot of money in the future...Thats bad, and any attempt any of us can do to prevent that is good...Damn it, I would really just like those questions answered by him...do you have a number I can reach him at?

Sure, give him a call at the shop. 732-222-3679.
 
well this issue is still up in the air i still need a explaination on how the hell im gonna switch our cars to open loop......i NEED to tune damnit :)
 
Micah said:
So with your "Deja vu" comment, are you telling me that you called and talked to him?

Nope...But, since you aksed, everything that Installshield 2 had posted seemed very familiar.
 
Micah said:
yep, almost a cut and paste job.

My original advice stands - call the shop, or send him a PM.

And my original argument stands....How does that help the board memebrs??

This information should be for the whole board, not just for those who call.

That's where I stand.
 
igdrasil said:
acidbbg

what EGT are you reading when boosting?

8psi may be the limit on the stock fuel pressure and injectors.

@9psi, I have mine maxed, temps go high.

sorry..I have no egt...I am saving up money..And hope fully i will have one soon..I just read in some magazine..they are selling a Halmeter AF30...w/ wide band o2 sensor for under $200! Are they any good?

Chas:confused:
 
paulmp3 said:
I would like to see what kind of WB reading Acidbbg gets with his setup..

Unfortunately..I have no wideband..I am hoping..That someone in the area..that has one..might help me out (KoolDino)(naughty)

Chas
 
StuttersC said:
And my original argument stands....How does that help the board memebrs??

This information should be for the whole board, not just for those who call.

That's where I stand.

I will inform him as I call that I am not calling to buy one, just to get information on it...Anything he gives me I will post on, so that people have the information...I hope it is simply a matter of him not having the time to answer us, in which case he should have no problem with me reporting his answers...I won't ask for electronic internals or stuff that he may not want spread around...But a legitimate answer on how this tuner does normal operations, of things like what I asked about in an earlier post, would not be "too in depth" for the public...
 
I agree with pretty much everything Installshield has said so far. If I were turbo'd today, and looking for a piggyback, I do not think I would buy the MPI tuner. Like it has been said, this is not only a relatively expensive product, but it would also be going on my only car, my daily driver. I want to know damn well what this box is doing to control my car, and what it is doing to ensure its safe, reliable operation.

WTF am I going to do with the information on how the ECU is tricked into open loop mode!? Most of us are not ECE majors who are just waiting for tidbits of info sitting with our soldering irons in hand and circuit boards :). I just want to know what the hell this thing does to get the job done.

Luckily, I am not in the position to add a turbo to my car yet. Probably won't be until May. By then hopefully some more information on these piggybacks will be out, and some real solid proof (people not having to retune pulled fuel, no more updated versions coming out every other month etc) will guide me to my decision!

Chris
 
well here is a suggestion for anyone who is thinking of getting a piggyback...

i have had a emanage on my car for a cuple weeks now and it is not working well for me... tuning will not stay...

even in just tuning in open loop...


so i am removing my emanage and buying a stand alone..
 
mazdamp3_18 said:
well here is a suggestion for anyone who is thinking of getting a piggyback...

i have had a emanage on my car for a cuple weeks now and it is not working well for me... tuning will not stay...

even in just tuning in open loop...


so i am removing my emanage and buying a stand alone..

which stand alone?
Im still refusing the idea of going stand alone.

I will try all posibilities before going standalone (modding the MAF, bigger injectors and stuff,

If I go standalone...I think Im going with Aeromotive or Haltech.
 
DooMer_MP3 said:
but it would also be going on my only car, my daily driver. I want to know damn well what this box is doing to control my car, and what it is doing to ensure its safe, reliable operation.Chris

Not to knock turbocharging at all. But if you want safe and reliable - don't mess with your car. I got greedy and kept the boost turned up when MPNick and Perf both suggested turning it down.

At the very least, I would recommend having a beater as a backup just in case something does go wrong with your "daily driver". When my engine blew, I had to borrow cars from friends and family - (I'm grateful they were able to help) until my engine had been replaced.
 
i was using the greddy emanage..

trying to tune our cars with a piggyback is a waste of time..


i say save up a little more and get standalone..

i would say go with haltech..

and if you want to get one i can get a GB started on other forums..
i know a distributor for haltech..

im going to get a haltech very soon..

chris
 
Don't give up yet. An FMU and a timing controller will let you run moderate boost.

An FMU is a simple device. It retains stock driveability, is easy to set up, doesn't require bigger injectors, and provides enough fuel for moderate boost.

It's true that you can't tune an FMU with a laptop, but there is no such thing as a "perfect" A/F ratio, anyway. You can blow an engine with 11:1 A/F, if you are running more timing than the octane of the fuel you are using can suport.

Some timing controllers use a knock sensor to adapt to the change in octane and A/F ratio.
 
The above is an excellent answer to some of the problems we have. I think you could use the emanage and an FMU to have good results. You could use the FMU on a low setting to be "safe" and use the electronics to get rid of the "transition" that the FMU experiences when boost starts up. Or simply hook the FMU up to the compressor housing to get it going "sooner" and use the emanage to lean things out, which it will do better than richening things up. No?

For Mazdaspeeds with the flash especially, I think the J&S is a fantastic way to go. MSPs are not in need of fueling control, but with the flash, some timing control would be helpful. The J&S will allow you to retard timing based upon rpm, boost, AND most importantly when it senses knock.

The price isn't that cheap I admit, but buying a knock sensor that does nothing, is a waste of money in my opinion. At least with the J&S you can have your timing "adjusted" automatically. This means that you can have FULL power when things are running well and retard the timing when necessary. You can literally pick how much timing to pull out as you boost (it has an interal MAP). And the price is much less than any standalone that may or may not work. The J&S does. I forget where, but I did get a tank of bad gas, J&S lit up like a Christmas tree when I went into boost. Name ONE standalone or piggyback that can protect the engine from something like that (there are some I know, but I want to hear from someone that is running one on a Protege).

Sorry to get on a rant, but with all the issues we have with timing and fuel, I'm kind of tired of hearing MSP owner's complain about timing control when something like the J&S clearly solves the problem!

I think you guys should hit up John and see if he'd be down for a group buy or something along those lines. He's a cool guy and very helpful. I'm sure he can answer any of your questions.

Sorry if I posted this link recently (I did but I forget where). Here's my J&S thread.

http://www.mazdamp3.com/vbb225/showthread.php?s=&threadid=28493&highlight=safeguard
 
Yikes!~ I missed a grip of stuff. I just got done skimming over most of these 14 pages of posts, and I'm still unsure on what might be the best option as far as a piggy/plug'n'play unit goes... I'm getting to the point where I might be able to purchase something in the next few months.

I already know I'm either going to have to add a few injectors or just get bigger ones, but wtf do I do about the ecu?:mad: lol
 
Little Beavis said:
The above is an excellent answer to some of the problems we have. I think you could use the emanage and an FMU to have good results. You could use the FMU on a low setting to be "safe" and use the electronics to get rid of the "transition" that the FMU experiences when boost starts up. Or simply hook the FMU up to the compressor housing to get it going "sooner" and use the emanage to lean things out, which it will do better than richening things up. No?

For Mazdaspeeds with the flash especially, I think the J&S is a fantastic way to go. MSPs are not in need of fueling control, but with the flash, some timing control would be helpful. The J&S will allow you to retard timing based upon rpm, boost, AND most importantly when it senses knock.

The price isn't that cheap I admit, but buying a knock sensor that does nothing, is a waste of money in my opinion. At least with the J&S you can have your timing "adjusted" automatically. This means that you can have FULL power when things are running well and retard the timing when necessary. You can literally pick how much timing to pull out as you boost (it has an interal MAP). And the price is much less than any standalone that may or may not work. The J&S does. I forget where, but I did get a tank of bad gas, J&S lit up like a Christmas tree when I went into boost. Name ONE standalone or piggyback that can protect the engine from something like that (there are some I know, but I want to hear from someone that is running one on a Protege).

Sorry to get on a rant, but with all the issues we have with timing and fuel, I'm kind of tired of hearing MSP owner's complain about timing control when something like the J&S clearly solves the problem!

I think you guys should hit up John and see if he'd be down for a group buy or something along those lines. He's a cool guy and very helpful. I'm sure he can answer any of your questions.

Sorry if I posted this link recently (I did but I forget where). Here's my J&S thread.

http://www.mazdamp3.com/vbb225/showthread.php?s=&threadid=28493&highlight=safeguard

Ahem...! Didn't I put some similar "rant" out there in the MSP section some months ago? ;)

http://www.mazdamp3.com/vbb230/showthread.php?s=&threadid=30299&highlight=Safeguard
 
Micah said:
Not to knock turbocharging at all. But if you want safe and reliable - don't mess with your car. I got greedy and kept the boost turned up when MPNick and Perf both suggested turning it down.

At the very least, I would recommend having a beater as a backup just in case something does go wrong with your "daily driver". When my engine blew, I had to borrow cars from friends and family - (I'm grateful they were able to help) until my engine had been replaced.

Now now, while obviously turboing a non-turboed engine will be less reliable, there are ways to ensure its reliability for the life of the car. When I first was thinking of going turbo, it was the cheap route. A SPOOL stage 1, and a P5 ECU swap. But now that I've paid off my debt, and am saving up the cash, I want to do it right.

I want proper fuel and timing control, and would rather not get rid of my MP3 ECU. Throwing on a P5 or ES ECU will get pissed about not seeing the VTCS, and will throw a CEL.

By the time I've saved up enough money, I'm hoping a kit from probably Wagner, and a piggyback will help me get reliable A/F ratios as well as retard the MP3s advanced timing and then some.

With that, I should be as reliable as an MSP. Ya know, how reliable is an MSP? All it is, is a turboed FSDE with proper fuel/timing... I will never go for any insane boost levels while this car is my daily driver. I do plan on getting a winter vehicle when I turbod to keep miles off my MP3 though. All I want is something more fun to drive, something to compliment the handling.

If the MPI tuner is the key, then there you have it. But so far, the opinions by the users are mixed. We have a couple of people who have had issues, and a couple of people who have not. And then the different versions without an explanation as to why the new version had to be made, and how the changes do what they do to MY CAR. Sounds just a bit fishy to me and my money. But hopefully by May or June, this will all be crystal clear!

Chris
 

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