Regardless of what you do, please, please, understand that an aftermarket BOV IS a warranty issue if you have an engine problem. Dealers look for ways to void warranties, and they'll do it on the slimmest of grounds. Fact. That dream dealer that any of us may think is mod friendly can change tunes in a heart beat when there's trouble.
I'm prepared to face that with my pocketbook on a warranty that's on a car that I own.
You may stop reading now. But if anyone is still interested:
Under the heading of "more information than necessary" but to put things in context, let me say that I started racing cars on the drag strip when I was 17 years old. My family owned (still does) and operates to this day an automotive engine rebuilding company, automotive machine shop and builds custom performance engines -- what some call "speed shop" work.
At 19 my dad put me in a new 1970 A body Mopar (lightest body they made) with 340 engine, four speed, and 3.91 posi. We ordered the car from the factory with "delete" on every option we could to keep it light. Hell, it didn't have air conditioning, did not have power steering or power anything, even did not have a radio. First thing we did was take off everything else we could that was not necessary to be stock legal at the strip and lighten it up more. Second thing we did was pull the engine, the first week we had the car! Warranty went out the window.
We did a showroom stock "blueprint" on the engine, putting everything at the exact optimum racing tolerance while staying within stock specs. made sure that every rod, every piston, weighed the same thing, balanced the crank and all reciprocating mass, decked the block at minimum height to get compression at the maximum spec, and milled the cylinder heads so that every cylinder had as close to equal volume as possible, (but could not port or polish and stay in class), put in a stock "cheater" cam that would read normal lift and duration but would come up on the power curve rather violently and still be within specs. That cam profile was only good for about 10,000 street miles before lobe wear would reduce performance.
The list goes on and on as to what you did with engine and chassis mods to race in showroom stock classes in those days and absolutely clock everybody else. Running mid 12's on 100 octane fuel within all stock specs, without headers and on DOT legal street tires. Leaving hard put the left front tire about 3-4 inches off of the ground.
But, and this is a BIG but -- we were doing this as a family project and it was with full knowledge and open cooperation of the owner of the car - my dad. My now grown daughter had a need for speed and learned to drive and still drives in modded turbo cars (relatively mild mods but enough to void warranty) -- Saabs are her preference and a proud dad helps her with the tech side.
Since a teen, I've always had modded, sometimes highly modded, but stealthy sleeper cars. This time around the MS3 got my attention and I love it. Once in your blood, it never leaves.
