MazdaSpeed3 Towing Hitch

shoogerfree said:
Running all the lights on the trailer from the small wiring that goes to the little light in the trunk wouldn't be safe. Not to mention the trunk light only comes on when the trunk is open. You want the trailer lights to come on when the headlights are on and when the turn signals are on and when braking. It's a matter of splicing into several wires going to the tail lights. Its complicated. If someone comes up with a DIY I wanna see it.
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I would also love to see this.
 
HiddenHitch

Anybody have any experience with HiddenHitch? I can get a deal on parts and installation on my MS3. How is there rep?
 
One more thing to consider: If you wreck it while towing, your insurance carrier will likely say, "Sorry, not covered."
 
shoogerfree said:
Running all the lights on the trailer from the small wiring that goes to the little light in the trunk wouldn't be safe. Not to mention the trunk light only comes on when the trunk is open. You want the trailer lights to come on when the headlights are on and when the turn signals are on and when braking. It's a matter of splicing into several wires going to the tail lights. Its complicated. If someone comes up with a DIY I wanna see it.
Click to expand...

I wired my trailer light controller from this light. It is hot all the time. The switch (wherever it is) is downstream from the light, and switches the ground.

I'm not sure why you think this wouldn't be safe. Too many amps? My trailer has LED lights which draw 1/10'th the power of conventional lights.

I used vampire taps on the left tail-lamp wiring. The controller + wire store nicely in the compartment with the jack. The hardest part was snaking the wire to the trunk light.
 
I installed the Curt hitch. No problems and less than 45 minutes. I did not need to cut anything, even with my rack installed. Works great!

4208_1107726065701_1603293787_30264524_7294725_n.jpg
 
I have a Curt hitch as well, and went with a Thule 990 rack.

I've not been happy with how much the rack moves when I carry two bikes. I assume it's a result of the rack flexing, though it's kind of hard to really observe since I'm behind the wheel when it occurs. Several friends of mine have the T2 and don't seem to have any issues with the bikes flopping around.
 
Thanks to the OP, I recently installed a Curt hitch on my MS3 to carry my bike rack. A little bit of modding was needed, as my rack needed a hitch with a 2" receiver, and the Curt hitch is only available with the 1 1/4" receiver.

I used a 1 1/4" to 2" adapter for the bike rack, but was not happy with the amount of movement - way too much play - so I had a trailer shop remove the 1 1/4" receiver and weld the 2" adapter in its place.

The manager of the trailer shop used to work for Curt, and for liability reasons he wouldn't do the work unless he checked out the hitch first to make sure it was strong enough. After inspecting it he said he would have no problem welding the 2" in place, as the hitch itself is very strong.

Long story short, I can now mount my bike rack approximately 8" closer to my bumper, as the adapter is no longer needed, and the rack is now VERY secure and wobble free.
 
ChrisG said:
I have a Curt hitch as well, and went with a Thule 990 rack.

I've not been happy with how much the rack moves when I carry two bikes. I assume it's a result of the rack flexing, though it's kind of hard to really observe since I'm behind the wheel when it occurs. Several friends of mine have the T2 and don't seem to have any issues with the bikes flopping around.
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Are your friends' T2s for the 2" receiver? If so, I'd guess that's the reason that they get less flex. I got a rear rack that requires you to take the front wheel off of your bike, just so I could reduce some of the weight on rack, to minimize the "bounce" you get with two bikes. Having said that, I still get more movement than I'd like.

It is a bit disconcerting to look in the rear view mirror and see that amount of movement. Luckily, I don't carry two bikes very often, and when I carry one, I mount it in the position closest to the bumper.
 
just do wat i do. . . ride the bike from your house out to kroom. lol =]... j.k well not really. i live farly close to okee and kroom so i just ride my bike out there from my house.. i was thinking of doing the same but that idea was dropped pretty quick..... what bike do you have?? and where do u stay by that i havent seen you around?
 
Great thread and info, everybody. Thanks.

Anybody use the "Plug/play" wiring option Curt now has for the Mazda 3? Connector part number is 56011, install time listed as 20mins with no splicing...

I plan on going this route. Looking to pull a small race car frame on a 10x6 trailer with the Class 2 Curt hitch. Hoping it'd be well under 1,000 lbs.

See here for example, about $45 shipped: https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)
 
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Nikolai said:
Great thread and info, everybody. Thanks.

Anybody use the "Plug/play" wiring option Curt now has for the Mazda 3? Connector part number is 56011, install time listed as 20mins with no splicing...

I plan on going this route. Looking to pull a small race car frame on a 10x6 trailer with the Class 2 Curt hitch. Hoping it'd be well under 1,000 lbs.

See here for example, about $45 shipped: https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)
Click to expand...
do you have a gt?
 
MS3 GT yes... Does the GT package make a diff?

Also something to consider, I'm pretty sure my radiator has a tranny/oil cooler... Besides the added stopping distance and general concern of strength where the hitch connects to the rear bumper, I think the MS3 would make a perfectly suitable towing vehicle for smaller trailers.
 
Ok, went ahead and bought PN's 56011 and 11384 via Ebay, total $174.10 shipped. The Curt catalogue shows the jack access panels as installed location for the wiring box, thus it would appear this installation only involves wiring in hte hatch area. I'll know for sure in a week or two.
 
Nikolai said:
Ok, went ahead and bought PN's 56011 and 11384 via Ebay, total $174.10 shipped. The Curt catalogue shows the jack access panels as installed location for the wiring box, thus it would appear this installation only involves wiring in hte hatch area. I'll know for sure in a week or two.
Click to expand...

Please post a lot of pics of the wiring install! (cabpatch)
 
Nikolai said:
MS3 GT yes... Does the GT package make a diff?

Also something to consider, I'm pretty sure my radiator has a tranny/oil cooler... Besides the added stopping distance and general concern of strength where the hitch connects to the rear bumper, I think the MS3 would make a perfectly suitable towing vehicle for smaller trailers.
Click to expand...

I think it does...the gt has led lights and i think that plays a part which wire kit to use.
can someone confirm this?
 
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