LinuxRacr's Haltech E6X Log..

Been running nothing but redline for the last couple of years. I've only had to pull out my sparkplugs one time.
 
Captain KRM P5 said:
what makes Redline better than say, Royal Purple?

I don't know of any comparitive tests... but typically just better suspension, better detergent action, and better resistance to thermal breakdown.
 
I was testing out the boost controller knob this morning, and was turning it little by little to see the boost accually go up. When I got about 3/4 of the way around, I hit boost, and I spiked to like 13 PSI. My tires spun a little, but it felt GOOD! (eek2). My A/F ratios were still kinda safe though. Does the boost controller option accually adjust the maps as you turn the trim knob?
 
LinuxRacr said:
I was testing out the boost controller knob this morning, and was turning it little by little to see the boost accually go up. When I got about 3/4 of the way around, I hit boost, and I spiked to like 13 PSI. My tires spun a little, but it felt GOOD! (eek2). My A/F ratios were still kinda safe though. Does the boost controller option accually adjust the maps as you turn the trim knob?

your fuel map is programmed to put in fuel for that amount of load at 13 psi (about 90 kPa on your screen). if steve is worth his salt then he probably worked upwards - even from 8 psi, linearized the entire map upwards like a smooth progression. the knob it self will not adjust the map.
 
LinuxRacr said:
I was testing out the boost controller knob this morning, and was turning it little by little to see the boost accually go up. When I got about 3/4 of the way around, I hit boost, and I spiked to like 13 PSI. My tires spun a little, but it felt GOOD! (eek2). My A/F ratios were still kinda safe though. Does the boost controller option accually adjust the maps as you turn the trim knob?
With the 3 bar map and the 460 injectors, you can boost up to 16 psi on 93 octane with 9.1 to 1 CR pistons.

The maping is done all the way to 30 psi, so as long as the fuel ratios are correct and you do not hear detonation, you are good to run as much as 15 psi safely.

Juan
 
this reminded me to look at your map :D from the looks of it he totally linearized the fuel curve past 8 psi going up - its totally smooth but still increasing as MAP values and RPM values increase. the rest of the fuel map looks a little different than what i am used to, not quite as smooth. he leaned it out a little in comparison to the rest of the map at maximum boost (53 kPa) in all rpm ranges, perhaps to make the most power?
 
HiBoost TS said:
With the 3 bar map and the 460 injectors, you can boost up to 16 psi on 93 octane with 9.1 to 1 CR pistons.

i assume you mean on forged rods as well
 
Captain KRM P5 said:
define "safe"

Safe is always relative! LOL :) I consider "safe" ratios to be around 11's... I consider a tuned ratio to be 12.5-12.8. But safe goes out the window if your timing isn't right.
 
Captain KRM P5 said:
i assume you mean on forged rods as well

Well you CAN do it on the stock rods... but your car WON'T last long. That is why we have the zoom zoom boom club.
 
BTW, I just had another startup issue. Could not get my car started at all. I expected to have have issues like this, so this is not a total surprise. I pulled the plugs, and checked the cylinders. The plugs were not wet this time at all, and the cylinders looked relatively not wet. I guess this is just a matter of finidng the correct setting.
 
HiBoost TS said:
With the 3 bar map and the 460 injectors, you can boost up to 16 psi on 93 octane with 9.1 to 1 CR pistons.

The maping is done all the way to 30 psi, so as long as the fuel ratios are correct and you do not hear detonation, you are good to run as much as 15 psi safely.

Juan

So does the knob affect the map?
 
LinuxRacr said:
So does the knob affect the map?

No, it shouldn't... it'll just affect where you are in the map.... that is the standard way that the systems work... the Haltech may have something I'm not aware of... but that is the "normal" way of doing it.
 
LinuxRacr said:
BTW, I just had another startup issue. Could not get my car started at all. I expected to have have issues like this, so this is not a total surprise. I pulled the plugs, and checked the cylinders. The plugs were not wet this time at all, and the cylinders looked relatively not wet. I guess this is just a matter of finidng the correct setting.

The kicker that you'll have to figure out with this is whether to adjust the cranking map or just the temperature maps. It'll be a correction that needs to be adjusted rather than a base map adjustment.
 
LinuxRacr said:
BTW, I just had another startup issue. Could not get my car started at all. I expected to have have issues like this, so this is not a total surprise. I pulled the plugs, and checked the cylinders. The plugs were not wet this time at all, and the cylinders looked relatively not wet. I guess this is just a matter of finidng the correct setting.

having looked at your Air Temp corrections, they are extremely generous to say the least - almost twice as rich as my own across the board. i want to play around with it some more but it does not look much different than what was sent to me from Hiboost on the f10x

TurfBurn said:
Safe is always relative! LOL :) I consider "safe" ratios to be around 11's... I consider a tuned ratio to be 12.5-12.8. But safe goes out the window if your timing isn't right.

i run around 12.5 while in boost on stock timing

TurfBurn said:
Well you CAN do it on the stock rods... but your car WON'T last long. That is why we have the zoom zoom boom club.

already a proud member of said club :D
 
I got my car started. I called Steve who gave me a little advice about what he had changed. He didn't get to tune for cold start because my car wasn't completely cold. He had changed Fuel Post Start Enrichment Map, and coolant correction map. He explained to me how the coolant correction map and the post start up map work together, and advised that I change the value for 0 post start time back to what it was before if the car started easier with it. I did this, but the car still wouldn't start. The battery was drained from all the attempts before. Weak-ass AutoZone battery. :mad: I had a friend come give me a jump, and the car started right up after one more fine adjustment to the post-start enrichment map. So a weak-ass battery won't help you, but I already knew this.
 
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Post start enrichment should only last about 4-5 seconds... I don't know what steve told you or specifically what the Haltech does but it is typically used for getting the motor to stabilize which takes a little extra fuel...
 
TurfBurn said:
Post start enrichment should only last about 4-5 seconds... I don't know what steve told you or specifically what the Haltech does but it is typically used for getting the motor to stabilize which takes a little extra fuel...

you can set the haltech to do up to 60 seconds of post start enrichment
 

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