Knew it wouldnt work

[Bigg Tim]

Did you put your O2 circuit completely back to stock??? No gauge or clamp or anything to it. Pin 60 (Pink w/blue) 100% stock?

 

[Focus]

BTW I put a mirror of the ECU pinout here:

http://www.mazdaspd.com/resources/msppinout1.html

http://www.mazdaspd.com/resources/msppinout2.html

 

[Matthew]

Did you put your O2 circuit completely back to stock??? No gauge or clamp or anything to it. Pin 60 (Pink w/blue) 100% stock?

i did, no change. i put it back in last night when i fixed the idle.

 

[Bigg Tim]

So you run fine pre-boost, like stock right? Do you have any way of reading voltage while driving to see what she's doing?

 

[Matthew]

RESULTS:

White/Red on MAF to Ground = 13.05v - 13.09v (fluctuate)
Black on MAF to Ground DOES NOT EXIST... however, Black/Red on MAF to Ground = .06v (steady)
Green on MAF to ground DOES NOT EXIST ... however, Green/Black on MAF to Ground = .23v - .25v (fluctuate)

Blue on O2 sensor to Ground = 0.0v (steady)
White on 02 sensor to Ground = -.06v to -.07v (fluctuate)
The Two Black on the O2 sensor to ground = 6.5v - 10.5v (fluctuate)

Some things that i noticed:

Last night what corrected the idle: Pink/blue and Blue/yellow (signal from first and second o2..i think thats what the blue/yellow is) are joined by a black/white wire at the harness which splits and connects to each one. i cut the line (part of the V if you call it that) from the black/white wire going to the pink/blue at pin60, and idle corrected and the car worked good all last night and today. i reconnected the wire to be more accurate on this test you had me do (since im sure that wire wasnt supposed to be cut), and BAM bad idle again, and ive got fuel/carbon/sludge pilling up in my muffler from running so rich. i dont know what this means.

Almost stalling: i dont know what the Green/Black wire is on the MAF, but when i hook up the multimeter to it, the car goes from higher rpm at idle to almost completely dead, over and over and over until i stop testing.

Timm to answer your question: when i took out the clamp last night, it did absolutely nothing different. when i DISCONNECTED the wire leading tothe pink/blue at the harness (see above), then it drove like stock (good idle, lean immediately upon entering boost). then i put the clamp BACK in with the wire that heads to pink/blue at the harness STILL disconnected, and it boosted like a good ole boy all last night and today. it stopped working on my way home from work.

 

[Focus]

Matt still waiting on those voltages. East coast here, so I will be heading to bed soon.

 

[Matthew]

im off to check fuses now while you deliberate on this info.

 

[Focus]

RESULTS:

White/Red on MAF to Ground = 13.05v - 13.09v (fluctuate)

**** This is your supply and this is good


Black on MAF to Ground DOES NOT EXIST... however, Black/Red on MAF to Ground = .06v (steady)

**** This is your ground and that is good as well

Green on MAF to ground DOES NOT EXIST ... however, Green/Black on MAF to Ground = .23v - .25v (fluctuate)

**** This is your output to your ECU. Voltage should read between 2 to 5 Volts while the car is running. Check at the ECU where doest it connect to ?


Blue on O2 sensor to Ground = 0.0v (steady)

**** This is not normal( Trying toi figure out why )

White on 02 sensor to Ground = -.06v to -.07v (fluctuate)

**** This is normal, I believe it is your sensor ground which connects to pin 91 on the ECU.


The Two Black on the O2 sensor to ground = 6.5v - 10.5v (fluctuate)

**** I am not sure what these are. 1 of them is the heater and the other seems to be connecting to the cooling fan relay.

Some things that i noticed:

Last night what corrected the idle: Pink/blue and Blue/yellow (signal from first and second o2..i think thats what the blue/yellow is) are joined by a black/white wire at the harness which splits and connects to each one. i cut the line (part of the V if you call it that) from the black/white wire going to the pink/blue at pin60, and idle corrected and the car worked good all last night and today. i reconnected the wire to be more accurate on this test you had me do (since im sure that wire wasnt supposed to be cut), and BAM bad idle again, and ive got fuel/carbon/sludge pilling up in my muffler from running so rich. i dont know what this means.

Almost stalling: i dont know what the Green/Black wire is on the MAF, but when i hook up the multimeter to it, the car goes from higher rpm at idle to almost completely dead, over and over and over until i stop testing.

Timm to answer your question: when i took out the clamp last night, it did absolutely nothing different. when i DISCONNECTED the wire leading tothe pink/blue at the harness (see above), then it drove like stock (good idle, lean immediately upon entering boost). then i put the clamp BACK in with the wire that heads to pink/blue at the harness STILL disconnected, and it boosted like a good ole boy all last night and today. it stopped working on my way home from work.

 

[Matthew]

i got a blown fuse, it is num 2 if you look in your owners manual on the inside box. Says H/CLN 20A protection for various circuits.

 

[Matthew]

pictures of my exhaust after reconnecting that wire to the wire at pin60.

notice the smoke or whatever, and the puddles of s*** inside.

 

[Matthew]

im going to see if i can find that green/black wire at the harness so i can tell you where it plugs in and make sure the connects are good. also remember my IAT sensor is ****** up. if this wire has somethign to do with that that might be the prob.

 

[Focus]

Last night what corrected the idle: Pink/blue and Blue/yellow (signal from first and second o2..i think thats what the blue/yellow is) are joined by a black/white wire at the harness which splits and connects to each one. i cut the line (part of the V if you call it that) from the black/white wire going to the pink/blue at pin60, and idle corrected and the car worked good all last night and today. i reconnected the wire to be more accurate on this test you had me do (since im sure that wire wasnt supposed to be cut), and BAM bad idle again, and ive got fuel/carbon/sludge pilling up in my muffler from running so rich. i dont know what this means.

s***, I just noticed this. You say you reconnected the Black/White wirre to pin 60 on your ECU ??????

 

[Matthew]

yes. it was odd, i never noticed it before. last night i cut it and it solved the idle. i put it back tonight (back to the way it was stock or whatever) and there goes my good idle etc.

the black/wht wire doesnt go to anything in particular, it just splits in half. half goes to the blue/yellow wire, half goes to the pink/blue wire at pin60.

btw there are three friggin green/black wires going into the harness, each with different shades of green. the are all intact as far as i can see...they dont look like they have ever been tapped unless im looking at the wrong one.

 

[Focus]

yes. it was odd, i never noticed it before. last night i cut it and it solved the idle. i put it back tonight (back to the way it was stock or whatever) and there goes my good idle etc.

the black/wht wire doesnt go to anything in particular, it just splits in half. half goes to the blue/yellow wire, half goes to the pink/blue wire at pin60.

btw there are three friggin green/black wires going into the harness, each with different shades of green. the are all intact as far as i can see...they dont look like they have ever been tapped unless im looking at the wrong one.

OK so maybe it was your multimeter that was affecting the MAF reading.

The Black/White wire is a ground. When you remove it it corrected it somewhat. Sounds like you have a grounding issue, or a wire is getting pinched somewhere and it is dropping the voltage to ground.

Try this: Cut the wire at pin 60 and run a new wire from outside the car to the output of the 02 sensor( I think it's the blue wire) see if that fixes anything.

 

[Bigg Tim]

Your MAF is pin88, light green w/black just like at the MAF.

 

[Matthew]

i was thinking of doing this already i dont have a wire long enough right now i dont think...damn...

should i leave the black/wht wire hooked up when i do this or not? and if so should i connect straight to the o2 from before or after the black/wht wire?

 

[Matthew]

When you remove it it corrected it somewhat

it correctly completely actually. except for in boost...idle/cruise i mean.

 

[Focus]

i was thinking of doing this already i dont have a wire long enough right now i dont think...damn...

should i leave the black/wht wire hooked up when i do this or not? and if so should i connect straight to the o2 from before or after the black/wht wire?

If i recall correctly the Black/White wire goes to the 02 wire and acts as the shield. I believe the wire going to the engine comparment is a Grey shielded wire.

Try it both ways.

 

[Matthew]

yes, both the blue/yellow and pink/blue wire turn into a shielded gray wire and the ground is basically wrapped around the pink/blue inside the gray shielded wire and connects to the black/white wire near the harness.

so disconnect that ground or not?

what about that fuse, anyone know what its for?

what else could it be...gotta be something to do with that wire. of course, it still doesnt fix the boost problem, but its obviously a problem if i disconnect and the car idles good.

also, what about the 0v to the first o2 sensor?

 

[Matthew]

also, how about disconnecting the black/white wire from the pink/blue and tapping like my ground for my TT and connecting it to the pink/blue?