First 2012 oil change?

dieseldriver said:
Okay, I found the perfect tool from Harbor Freight to remove the oil filter through the access hole underneath. .
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I can get to mine w/a cup adapter, but the problem is that no matter how careful I am, some oil is still going to drip down onto the top of the splash shield. I've found that by just removing the front four screws and then two additional bolts (one each side), I can drop it down and get a small catch can under the filter (thus, no mess).
 
I used a half cut 2 liter coke bottle and put it underneath the oil filter. But now that I think about, the access hole is too small for that so I will try out the zip lock sandwich bag. I wear those disposable gloves when doing this so I don't get oil all over my hand. Just slip the zip lock bag over the filter as you unscrew it. Make sure it's pushed up all the way as you unscrew that last thread, so most oil drips into the bag and not on your hand.
 
On my '09 I have used mobil 1 syn 5-20 with wix filters (AKA Napa Gold) every 6-7.5K miles.
No issues so far, and we are at 42k miles.
 
Although this may sound a bit novel, I have a perfect solution for this issue. I'm not sure why I have never thought of this for the oil drip issue with taking off spin on filter that's usually point straight down or even at an angle. I guess except for some models that have cartridge based oil filter that sits in the engine bay like BMW and VW, I have yet seen Japanese cars designed this way. So, it got me thinking, and I have a solution for this. Design will be simple yet effective but can't give it out. I need to know if I can make it commercially.
jeffismrmom said:
I can get to mine w/a cup adapter, but the problem is that no matter how careful I am, some oil is still going to drip down onto the top of the splash shield. I've found that by just removing the front four screws and then two additional bolts (one each side), I can drop it down and get a small catch can under the filter (thus, no mess).
Click to expand...
 
I did another oil change this weekend. Didn't remove any bottom panels like I did before. It was easy as pie. OEM filter and Mobil 1 0w-20w.
 
Cool, I am now itching to do my first "real" oil change -- I currently have 5 OEM filters, 1 Bosch regular interval, and 2 Bosch Extended Interval. I will probably do next few oil changes with Mobil1 and regular interval at 5K miles then get some Amsoil or Royal Purple and do my first 7500 interval oil change.
90210 said:
I did another oil change this weekend. Didn't remove any bottom panels like I did before. It was easy as pie. OEM filter and Mobil 1 0w-20w.
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I have tons of OEM filters as well. WEnt on ridiculous sale, so bought a bunch.
 
Oil changes have doubled now that Mazda requires synthetic oil. Not a big deal but I will wait the full 5,000 miles between oil changes, especially since I don't really fall into the "Severe" category. I double checked and my dealer did have the 0-20 wt and this was listed on my paperwork as well. I will gladly pay the extra, having a 2.5 instead of a 2.3 has been worth it. My 12 Sport is much better for my needs, glad I traded in the 09.
 
The most I've ever reved was to about 3K RPM, no more. Even so, I am still getting about 26.7 MPG, which isn't bad but it could have made a difference if it was around 32 like the Speed3. Though I enjoy the comfort in the Mazda5 better, ride seems to be a lot more compliant probably due to longer wheelbase.

Regardless, I am looking to do an oil change around 3K, no biggie for me. I have a Pela 5000 so changing oil takes less than 30minutes if the oil's warm. I think the Pela 5000 was one of my better investment when it comes to vehicle maintenance. I can do both the CX9 and M5 under an hour, which is pretty impressive. And this is not due to cutting corner either. Draining takes a lot longer than pulling the oil off the pan.
chitownpete said:
Oil changes have doubled now that Mazda requires synthetic oil. Not a big deal but I will wait the full 5,000 miles between oil changes, especially since I don't really fall into the "Severe" category. I double checked and my dealer did have the 0-20 wt and this was listed on my paperwork as well. I will gladly pay the extra, having a 2.5 instead of a 2.3 has been worth it. My 12 Sport is much better for my needs, glad I traded in the 09.
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filter details

Thanks for all the info. I just did my first oil change (stealership did the first one) at 7000 miles. I used a purolator filter (model PL10241) and it fit fine but it was not quite as big (depth) as the OEM LF8514302 that my local mazda guy used. Should I be worried or do the size vary somewhat? WHat is the model number of the bosch? And where did you find them for ridiculously short money? Thanks
 
nahtanojrekab said:
what's a Pela 5000?
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http://www.pelaproducts.com/

It's a fluid extractor, used to "drain" the oil through the dipstick tube by drawing a vaccuum. Assuming you're working on a vehicle with a top-side filter, it mitigates the need to put the car on ramps, crawl around on the ground, remove the belly pan or skidplate, strip the oil drain plug, get tools, hands, and sleeves covered in hot oil (especially after dropping drain plug in catch basin), replace the crush washer, cross-thread the oil drain plug, properly torque the drain plug, re-install the belly pan or skidplate (with, somehow, one less screw, nut, bolt or other manner of fastener than was counted when removed), transfer used oil from broad catch basin to appropriate disposal container (with only minimal spillage, of course)...
 
I don't really think those fluid extractor are a good substitute for draining. It seems that they would leave a lot of particulates that are sitting at the bottom of the pan, like all the tiny metal shavings that you want to flush out.
 
There isn't much doubt that an extractor is going to get more oil out than the drain plug. You can root the vaccuum hose around the oil pan all you want (and the filter reservoir, if applicable), reaching each corner just like using a straw to finish your milkshake. Whether it would get more particulate out... I'd imagine drain vs extractor are at worse equal, and at best in favour of the extractor... but moreover, heavy particulate will either stay in the bottom of the sump, or ultimately be passed through your oil filter, so why worry?

Certainly my own experience over ~6 years of using an extractor on my vehicles, and having my oil tested, has provided nothing to indicate even a remote concern.

Plus, if you have metal shavings in the sump, you have bigger issues to worry about!
 
I would think that maneuvering the hose around in there would be guessing at best, especially if baffles are getting in the way. I should have been more specific with the shavings, by tiny I meant very tiny, as in almost invisible to the eye, so more along the line of particles that haven't been filtered out. I don't know if you have ever run a magnetic drain plug but I do, and it always has a bunch of tiny metal pieces clung to it at oil changes, so the filters don't always catch everything. Of course I'm sure none of this has much difference in real world applications so like you said, it's a personal preference.
 
If the oil's extracted when engine's warm, I don't know how they will settle there in the first place when extracting. Also, if you're using the correct filter for the given oil change interval, it should be minimum. Remember, if the particle did settle on the bottom of the pan which I believe is what you're referring to, how is it different when draining versus extracting. Use a quality extractor like Pela or equivalent. I recommend you check out www.tdiclub.com and type Pela in the search box. You'd be surprised as to how many good things about extracting you can find out.
DynoBunny said:
I don't really think those fluid extractor are a good substitute for draining. It seems that they would leave a lot of particulates that are sitting at the bottom of the pan, like all the tiny metal shavings that you want to flush out.
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