Grounding Cylinder Head Test Results (2024 CX-5 Turbo)

TB is throttle body. That I do know. 😁
By the adaptive, I wonder if he meant the whole suite of adaptive features such as adaptive cruise control and etc, everything that learns from how one drives and tries to help make it safer. There must be an option to reset those features. I only have blind spot monitoring. 🤷
 
What do you call "the adaptive"? And what is TB? Sorry for asking, I am not a big fan of acronyms.
TB = Throttle Body
The computer monitors your driving through a number of sensors and adjusts or adapts various controls based upon your habits - like transmission shifting and throttle response. The adaptive learning can be reset to default and started over. This can be useful (or even essential) if you change something that affects the learned behavior model. If the vehicle starts to act up in some way, resetting can sonetimes fix odd behaviors.
 
In my LSX days we referred to open loop and closed loop modes. Open loop tuning means the PCM ignores O2 sensors, using MAP/IAT/ECT for fuel (cold starts, WOT/boost); while closed loop uses O2 sensor feedback to adjust fuel trims (STFT/LTFT) for precise Air/Fuel Ratios (AFR) during normal driving (idle, cruise).

"Adaptive" could refer to one of these. I am unsure if that is actual Mazda terminology.
 
hello-wow... i don't understand much of what you posted but my question is-Would you know how to disable cylinder deactivation on 24 na cx-5,thank you
In general that is not possible. Dont waste your time on this. Change your oil/filter on time and enjoy the car.
 
Will read the revised #63 in a bit. Found a few things in my tool box so tried this for now. Is it ok to use the same point to ground different wires? I wasn't sure because the other strut tower bracket offers multiple holes.
Yes, you can use the same place on the body to attach the ground cable.
 
What do you call "the adaptive"? And what is TB? Sorry for asking, I am not a big fan of acronyms.
Our transmission have a learning, adaptive, feature. It learns based on the power level and driving style.

TB = Throttle Body

Cheers
 
hello-wow... i don't understand much of what you posted but my question is-Would you know how to disable cylinder deactivation on 24 na cx-5,thank you
I'm not a tuner. On Domestics, we turned off cylinder deactivation on Dodge and GM products using HP Tuners software. We also removed the cylinder deactivation lifters and replaced with standard lifters. Then we can run the engines a higher RPM.

On engines with Variable Valve Timing, we lock out this feature when changing camshafts. This way we can run a much larger, aggressive, camshaft and not crash the valves into the pistons.

I usually work with an experienced tuner to get a base tune on my drag car and do fine tuning at the track. This year, we have two tuners who want to be part of our program. That will help take a load off of me...

We don't have HPT for our Mazda. I've been logging and downloading CX 5 ECU tunes using Mazda Edit software.

I suggest you talk with someone like DRTuned with your request. It might be as simple as checking a box in the software. At least that is how easy it is on Domestics..
 
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Yes, you can use the same place on the body to attach the ground cable.
I added one today from the 5th bolt on the TB (that secures a bracket for the rad hose) to the driver side chassis. This looks wrong, I know. 😂
 

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You really want to bolt the wire, just clipping it is not a good connection.
X2, a bolt will get a good connection. The clamp has to ground through the paint.

I use star washers that "bite" through for better grounding.

If @Nevada CX5 has a clamp on DC amp meter he can confirm if its working.

I would cut off the clamp and put a ring connector. I bought an inexpensive tool for making this connection. Its not professional looking crimp but it holds.
 
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X2, a bolt will get a good connection. The clamp has to ground through the paint.

I use star washers that "bite" through for better grounding.

If @Nevada CX5 has a clamp on DC amp meter he can confirm if its working.

I would cut off the clamp and put a ring connector. I bought an inexpensive tool for making this connection. Its not professional looking crimp but it holds.
Thanks! I have a better idea now what points to ground and what length of cable to use. Will order a generic grounding kit from Amazon.

Are these bolts good points to ground? This is on the driver side of the bay.

For the hole on the back of the engine, I use a battery terminal bolt [square head] coming up from under because it's easier to tighten the nut from above. There isn't enough clearance to work a socket or open end wrench though, it's too close to the valve cover. Right now it is only hand-tight. I might have to choose a different spot.
 

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Thanks! I have a better idea now what points to ground and what length of cable to use. Will order a generic grounding kit from Amazon.

Are these bolts good points to ground? This is on the driver side of the bay.

For the hole on the back of the engine, I use a battery terminal bolt [square head] coming up from under because it's easier to tighten the nut from above. There isn't enough clearance to work a socket or open end wrench though, it's too close to the valve cover. Right now it is only hand-tight. I might have to choose a different spot.
What year is your car?

I'll have to open the hood and compare your picture. I don't recognize this area....

Does you engine have a factory ground bracket on the driver's side? Thats an easy place to attach.

On the passengers side on top of the engine near a coil over I landed a ground.
 
What year is your car?

I'll have to open the hood and compare your picture. I don't recognize this area....

Does you engine have a factory ground bracket on the driver's side? Thats an easy place to attach.

On the passengers side on top of the engine near a coil over I landed a ground.
2017 CX-3 NA. The factory ground wire (from head to chassis) is on the passenger side. There are mounting brackets on both strut towers.

The photo in the last post shows the driver side of the engine. Considering my level of knowledge/skills, I will stay away from essential bolts that need to be torqued.

Mine is basically a lifted Mazda2. I am here because CX-5 folks have the most interesting topics. 😁
 
Thank you kindly, AL, for taking the time to assist all of us noobs on the concepts, on the specific connections you've made on your car. Very much appreciated. :love:(y)(y)

Am contemplating much the same enhancements to ground wiring on my own 2016.5 CX-5. Just haven't gone through the workshop manual and all of the prior discussions, yet. But I will. Have a couple other little gems to correcct, before then though (slow window, likely a power window regulator getting wheezy in its old age; cleaning out the engine bay; correcting a couple of stone chips on the paint).
 
As a noob with short attention span, I have skimmed through the lengthy discussion and charts while trying with items on hand. Folks can get very technical here and the info can be hard to digest.

We need cables with ring ends that are 2 to 3 ft long. A basic kit on Amazon is $14 (5 cables, one bracket, 4 sets of bolts/nuts/crush washers). I ordered a kit that is a recent-release of a prior version with good reviews. Finding points on the chassis is easy. Selecting points on the cylinder head, throttle body, or other components requires focus. 🙂
 
So let's start the peer review process.

We have 1 user who has shown results. However, the bias should be towards this not doing anything at all until results are corroborated by others. Not because we have an issue with it, but it's just how things are done. So, let's prove or disprove it.

Prove with data that power has increased:
  • MazdaEdit data logs before and after:
    • Show that something has changed in the sensor data tables (fuel, spark, etc)
    • Show simulated dyno results (avg both directions, same day)
  • Repeatable Dragy runs before and after (avg both directions, same day)
In my opinion, you don't need to try to prove fuel economy over several days/weeks/months. Any increase to engine efficiency affects both power and economy, and too many variables exist to cause errors over the span of time required (temperature, humidity, wind, amount/type/condition of engine oil, vehicle weight, tire wear, tire pressure, traffic, driving style, etc). The only reliable method would be recording fuel use by the engine in real-time (like with MazdaEdit). Again, average of both directions on the same road, same speed, same day.

Also, as another person point out, companies like Mazda are under pressure to increase economy and have come up with various, expensive schemes to squeeze sometimes 0.5 mpg out of these cars. That includes light weight oils in both the engine and transmissions, cylinder deactivation, i-Stop, etc. It is not reasonable to believe that an extra grounding wire would trump all of this engineering effort.

Based on my searching of this topic (twice over the last year) there are no such results on the internet. The most I have found are 20-year old import tuning boards talking about it, but no results were posted at all. Basically, this is already under the category of snake oil. This forum will be the first to prove either that this does something or does nothing. In either case, it will be found by internet searches going forward.
 
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