First 2012 oil change?

[dieseldriver]

If you don't mind me asking, can you point me to the document that mentions that? I always think that it's a good idea to replace the original oil from the factory. So with that being the case, I will pickup a jug of Mobile 1 0W20 and OEM filter and change it out this week.

It comes with synthetic straight from the factory.

 

[dieseldriver]

This is exactly my thought too. Also, I've looked at the Owner's Manual and there's nothing that says YOU HAVE TO USE synthetic engine oil. Though it's nice to use Mobile 1 which I have been using for both turbo and non-turbo cars I've owned in the past, for a naturally espirited engine like the 2.5L on M5, it's a plus I would think to use synthetic rather than conventional. I am also not 100% convinced that the oil they filled up from the factory is synthetic. Unless there's a documentation that came with the car that said it was, I would have to assume that it was conventional which at any case, I just swapped it out anyway because I would like these shaved metal particles from the factory (if there were any) to be flushed out.

My understanding is that the factories use petroleum oil for break-in purposes because synthetic oil does not allow the moving parts to settle in properly. I've never had a problem switching to synthetic after around 1500 miles.

 

[dieseldriver]

I could not find any documentation nor anyone could tell me that it was indeed synthetic from the factory. If you have anything from Mazda that says it is, please share it. Also, synthetic oil is a must for cars with turbo because of temperature produced by it and oil cools it down. So conventional oil would be bad for cars with turbo. But for a naturally espirited engine like the M5 16V, as long as you don't rev the crap out of it, wisdom would say that a conventional oil would be okay as long as you change it frequently. Synthetic is definitely a plus, but I would think that it's not a requirement.

It comes with synthetic straight from the factory.

 

[Orangutan]

Find me non-synthetic 0W-20.

 

[jeffismrmom]

I don't think there are any 0w20's that do not contain some synthetic stock; however, there are are a couple of blends using Group II+:

Union76 0w20 (ConocoPhillips family...so there may be Motorcraft & Kendall 0w20 variants out there)

Honda HG Synthetic Blend 0w20

Toyota 0w20 (doesn't say "Synthetic Blend" on the label, but there are some VOA's over at BITOG suggesting it's II+)

Jeff

 

[jeffismrmom]

This is exactly my thought too. Also, I've looked at the Owner's Manual and there's nothing that says YOU HAVE TO USE synthetic engine oil.

Isn't the 0w20 owner's manual recommendation only for USA & Canada? I seem to recall that Mexico allows for 5w20 (and maybe even -30)...

 

[dieseldriver]

I also noticed that. I wanted to pickup a 0W-20 Dino and could not find it. So I used 5W20 Mobile 5000 at 600 miles or so. Will be switching to Mobile 1 0W20 at 1500miles. I am doing this solely because I wanted to get any contaminants out of the oil if there were any in the engine. Also for break in, I wanted to make sure that the engine does not get synthetic because they tend to let the engine run more freely, which I don't think it's good for break in. I read couple of folks mentioning this and it does make sense. When I go synthetic, it will be exclusively Mobile 1 with OEM oil filter and changed every 5000 miles or so.

Also 0W-20 dino oil does not exist, that's only available as a synthetic.

 

[dieseldriver]

Good catch, yes, I saw that. For Mexico, if 0W20 is not available, 5W20 is acceptable. To be honest, I do not sweat that, 0W20 or 5W20. Viscosity recommended depending on the climate for that region I believe. I would think that 0W20 in Canada in the winter months is definitely a good idea.

Isn't the 0w20 owner's manual recommendation only for USA & Canada? I seem to recall that Mexico allows for 5w20 (and maybe even -30)...

 

[jeffismrmom]

Good catch, yes, I saw that. For Mexico, if 0W20 is not available, 5W20 is acceptable. To be honest, I do not sweat that, 0W20 or 5W20. Viscosity recommended depending on the climate for that region I believe. I would think that 0W20 in Canada in the winter months is definitely a good idea.

I'm currently running Motorcraft 5w20 (w/PureOne filter) in a moderate northern climate (Washington State). That said, this will be a short OCI (I dumped the factory fill at 800 miles and I'll dump the MC at 2300); I'll then be putting M1 0w20 in and will run that to the Schedule 1 service recommendation (7.5K/6mths).

However, because M1 is so expensive here and I can't get 0w20 in five-quart jugs, I will probably try the Honda (Idemitsu) or Toyota OEM 0w20. Over on BITOG there is a link to a Honda dealer selling 12qt cases of Idemitsu 0w20 for $41.76 + $11 s&h; works out to around $4.50/qt delivered and the VOAs at Bob's are quite good for this oil.

Jeff

 

[Orangutan]

I also noticed that. I wanted to pickup a 0W-20 Dino and could not find it. So I used 5W20 Mobile 5000 at 600 miles or so. Will be switching to Mobile 1 0W20 at 1500miles. I am doing this solely because I wanted to get any contaminants out of the oil if there were any in the engine. Also for break in, I wanted to make sure that the engine does not get synthetic because they tend to let the engine run more freely, which I don't think it's good for break in. I read couple of folks mentioning this and it does make sense. When I go synthetic, it will be exclusively Mobile 1 with OEM oil filter and changed every 5000 miles or so.

Look, dude, you're going to do what you want regardless of what anyone tells you. The car comes with synthetic, as do dozens of other vehicles now. You really think a manufacturer would put in an oil that would cause them headaches in the future by causing "problems with break-in"? We're not talking about design flaws or manufacturing defects; we're talking about a readily changed fluid. Synthetic oil is absolutely no problem for modern engines, and it is what comes stock in the car. Do what you want.

 

[dieseldriver]

Wow, sounds like you're tad bit upset there Orangutan. You've made your point, and point well taken. Let's leave it at that shall we?

 

[vinisterz]

wow you guys take oil change very seriously!! I'll do my oil change at 5000miles synthetic.

 

[90210]

WEll my 2nd oil change is coming after. AFter this, I will go to a 5K interval.

 

[dieseldriver]

Just a tad bit I picked up couple of Bosch Extended Interval Oil Filters and also, some Mobil 0W20 jugs. I will try to to 7500mile interval oil change and send the sample to Blackstone to make sure it's okay to continue doing so. I might also switch to Amsoil XL Synthetic 0W20 if I do decide the extended change interval works out okay. So my long term plan is 10K mile oil change interval during which I will change the air filter, and rotate tires. Now one small snag though: I have to do the same for our brand new 2011 CX-9 GT as well.

 

[ErikO]

Some interesting theories out there.

I know that the factory fill is synthetic. I did my first oil change at approximately 2000kms and will be taking the car in for the next one in December due to the six month interval. Too bad the car will only have around 5000kms on it....

I don't think there is much to worry about on new engines running synthetic oil from day one. At the end of the day, if you aren't driving it at redline all the time (and the redline is very low at that), the engine will be fine regardless of the oil you use. New cars are well engineered and designed to handle very poor treatment, as probably 20% of economy cars (or all cars period, for that matter) probably only get an oil change once every few years, if ever.

Really, there's no point in arguing over what type of oil to put in the car. As long as it's not mustard or koolaid, you'll be fine with whatever you use.

 

[dieseldriver]

Good point, can't agree with you more.

Some interesting theories out there.

I know that the factory fill is synthetic. I did my first oil change at approximately 2000kms and will be taking the car in for the next one in December due to the six month interval. Too bad the car will only have around 5000kms on it....

I don't think there is much to worry about on new engines running synthetic oil from day one. At the end of the day, if you aren't driving it at redline all the time (and the redline is very low at that), the engine will be fine regardless of the oil you use. New cars are well engineered and designed to handle very poor treatment, as probably 20% of economy cars (or all cars period, for that matter) probably only get an oil change once every few years, if ever.

Really, there's no point in arguing over what type of oil to put in the car. As long as it's not mustard or koolaid, you'll be fine with whatever you use.

 

[dieseldriver]

Here's a good write up about engine oil and its service interval:
http://www.schleeter.com/oil-sludge.htm

 

[90210]

I have been using the OEM filter. Got a great deal online, bought 10 of them.

 

[dieseldriver]

Okay, I found the perfect tool from Harbor Freight to remove the oil filter through the access hole underneath. It was $10 and they are relatively close to my house.
http://www.harborfreight.com/universal-3-jaw-adjustable-oil-filter-wrench-99629.html

I bought this because I did not want to remove the cover underneath. Also, the filter removal caps does not work, the ones that came from the filter kits from the Med Center. Nothing fits, it keeps breaking loose. So I bought this as a last resort to remove those filters that are weird size. This "claw" expands fairy big, I think it would have fit my Motorcraft filter that was on my 1988 Mustang GT 5.0.

 

[jeffismrmom]

Here's a good write up about engine oil and its service interval:
http://www.schleeter.com/oil-sludge.htm

For the author to generically state that only synthetics should be used and that they should be dumped on a 3K/3M OCI is ridiculous.

Also, engine sludge is a rare situation, not the "epidemic" that is claimed. The most wide-spread sludge issue of recent memory was the Toyota 2.2l 4cyl used in Camrys and some other models (Solara, Celica), which occurred in the late 90's/early 00's. Contrary to what he states, the sample size of oil starved engines was small and the incredible numbers of 4cyl Camrys from that period still on the road are indicative of that reliability. Furthermore, the 1.8l 1ZZ/2ZZ engine series...the most widely used engine in Toyota vehicles around the world...has never had sludge issues; it's somehow questionable that the writer of that article glossed over that fact.

I suspect he, like quick lube shops, auto stores and certain oil manufacturers, have an agenda in mind that is not as altruistic as they might lead you to believe.

IMO, if you are concerned about sludge but don't want to waste money and resources, do the following:

1) Pay attention to the web forum(s) for the car you own.
2) Join BITOG.
3) Follow the correct maintenance schedule for how you drive and where you live.
4) Use the recommended oil grade(s).
5) Periodically inspect your engine; you can see signs of sludging and other lubrication issues (varnish, premature cam lobe wear, etc.) by using a dental mirror and flashlight while looking into the fill hole.
6) Have an used oil analysis done periodically (I do them every 30K on my cars...runs ~$25).

All that said, is there reason to believe that the 2.5l has a propensity for oil starvation/sludging? Because I've yet to read of it, so maybe I'm missing something...

Jeff