CX-5 Brake noise after replacing rotors and pads

[bluefire_xl]

I replaced both my front rotors and pads 3 months ago. After some time. I was hearing this crunch/grinding sound when braking on my passenger front side. I will only notice the noise after a bit of driving. Don't see any damage to the rotors. The Sound went away after I added some grease to the caliper pins and contact points of the pads again. Then it will come back again after a few weeks. Any other things I should check? Use Raybestos for both rotors and pads. Driver's side seems to be fine.

 

[DrElectron]

What grease did you use? Make sure you are using high temp brake grease.

 

[bluefire_xl]

I was using the sil glyde for the caliper pins and permatex copper on the pads. Just weird that it's only happening on one side.

 

[CX5-SO]

Just for giggles, if you have not done so yet, bleed that caliper until it's full of clear new fluid and see if anything changes. The '13 the wife had, at 80k + I did new brakes all around and fully bled the system. I did not have to ask about it, the next day when she got home from work she asked, what did you do to my brakes they are soooooo smooooooooooooooooth! Also, if I recall correctly, one of the pins had that rubber thing, make sure it's not distorted, swelled or torn.

 

[yrwei52]

⋯
Also, if I recall correctly, one of the pins had that rubber thing, make sure it's not distorted, swelled or torn.

The rubber boots on the caliper pins are supposed to get replaced each time we lube the pins. At least the Mazda Workshop Manual said so.

 

[bluefire_xl]

Thanks everyone, I will try to replace the rubber and see how it goes. Can't just imagine what is making the sound. I do noticed when I put the lube last time that the caliper does not move back easily. It does after adding more lube.

 

[erhayes]

A rock between the shield and the rotor?

 

[yrwei52]

Thanks everyone, I will try to replace the rubber and see how it goes. Can't just imagine what is making the sound. I do noticed when I put the lube last time that the caliper does not move back easily. It does after adding more lube.

If you have a 2013 CX-5 GT, the rubber boots on caliper pins are 10 years old and may be they should get replaced when you redo the lube on these caliper pins. The brake grease you used should be fine. Just redo the lube job on both sides with new boots and see. You can also compare each side and see if you can find anything different between the two.

Strange Brake Pad Wear - Reputable rubber friendly silicone caliper grease

 

[bluefire_xl]

Update after replacing the rubber boots and redo the lube. Still has the same grinding sound when the pads are hot when braking. I mostly hear it before a complete stop. I wonder if this is because of the pad. I used the same one on the driver side and that one did not have the same issue. I have used Raybestos for both rotors and pad.

 

[Buzzman12]

When I did the brakes on my car, I noticed that the upper and lower pins are not the same on the caliper.
One pin has the rubber end, and one doesn't. Make sure you installed the pins the right way around.

 

[bluefire_xl]

When I did the brakes on my car, I noticed that the upper and lower pins are not the same on the caliper.
One pin has the rubber end, and one doesn't. Make sure you installed the pins the right way around.

I have the pin with the rubber one in the bottom. That seems right?

 

[yrwei52]

Update after replacing the rubber boots and redo the lube. Still has the same grinding sound when the pads are hot when braking. I mostly hear it before a complete stop. I wonder if this is because of the pad. I used the same one on the driver side and that one did not have the same issue. I have used Raybestos for both rotors and pad.

Where did you get your Raybestos pads? Usually brake pads come with the lifetime warranty, can you verify with the seller getting the pads replaced?

You may want to spend some time to switch the pads and rotors from one side to another and see if the grinding sound follows to driver side. I’d even try just swap the pads only to mate different rotors as they’re just 3 month old. It’s time consuming I know. But this may be the easy way to verify if the pads on the passenger side is defective.

 

[bluefire_xl]

Got it from rock auto. Will try this steps on the weekends and see. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[madar]

The rubber boots on the caliper pins are supposed to get replaced each time we lube the pins. At least the Mazda Workshop Manual said so.

I've never replaced these boots, just filled them with grease, dealer doesn't do it either...just saying.

 

[CTt3P5]

This is interesting and coincidental. I am/was having the same issue with the PS front brakes on my MX-5. I replaced the rotors and pads with Centric Premium rotors and Centric Posi-Quiet Ceramic pads (that I have been using on all of my vehicles for ~15 years with no issues) and noticed a squeal very similar to what you describe. On the PS and after the brakes are hot and usually just before coming to a complete stop. Oddly, the squeal doesn't happen with every stop. A visual check of the rotors didn't reveal anything odd and the wheel was never 'too hot' to the touch after driving.

This past weekend, I swapped over my winter set of wheels and tires so I pulled the caliper off, re-lubed the pins and applied some CRC Disc Brake Quiet spray to the back of the pads. This is the first time that I have ever done this as I have never had an issue when not doing it. So far it seems to have worked but the verdict on how long is still out.

 

[bluefire_xl]

This is interesting and coincidental. I am/was having the same issue with the PS front brakes on my MX-5. I replaced the rotors and pads with Centric Premium rotors and Centric Posi-Quiet Ceramic pads (that I have been using on all of my vehicles for ~15 years with no issues) and noticed a squeal very similar to what you describe. On the PS and after the brakes are hot and usually just before coming to a complete stop. Oddly, the squeal doesn't happen with every stop. A visual check of the rotors didn't reveal anything odd and the wheel was never 'too hot' to the touch after driving.

This past weekend, I swapped over my winter set of wheels and tires so I pulled the caliper off, re-lubed the pins and applied some CRC Disc Brake Quiet spray to the back of the pads. This is the first time that I have ever done this as I have never had an issue when not doing it. So far it seems to have worked but the verdict on how long is still out.

I was doing the same thing of checking if the side that had the noise was a bit warmer but does not seem to be. The first time i have re-lubed. i did remove the pads again to inspect and clean the back pads and grease them. That actually removed the sound for some time and came back again. Been using Raybestos for a few years now and this was the first time i had this type of issue. This time i just re-lubed the pins to isolate if that is the only thing. But did not resolved it.

 

[madar]

This is interesting and coincidental. I am/was having the same issue with the PS front brakes on my MX-5. I replaced the rotors and pads with Centric Premium rotors and Centric Posi-Quiet Ceramic pads (that I have been using on all of my vehicles for ~15 years with no issues) and noticed a squeal very similar to what you describe. On the PS and after the brakes are hot and usually just before coming to a complete stop. Oddly, the squeal doesn't happen with every stop. A visual check of the rotors didn't reveal anything odd and the wheel was never 'too hot' to the touch after driving.

This past weekend, I swapped over my winter set of wheels and tires so I pulled the caliper off, re-lubed the pins and applied some CRC Disc Brake Quiet spray to the back of the pads. This is the first time that I have ever done this as I have never had an issue when not doing it. So far it seems to have worked but the verdict on how long is still out.

I believe the service manual calls for a small dab of brake grease on the back of the inboard (piston side) pad.

 

[yrwei52]

I've never replaced these boots, just filled them with grease, dealer doesn't do it either...just saying.

Here are the torque settings on caliper slide pins and caliper brackets from Mazda Workshop Manual for 2018 CX-5. Notice the inverse and bold “R” (Replace) pointed to all rubber boots of the caliper pins:


2018 CX-5 front brake single piston floating caliper torque spec:

2018 CX-5 front brake 2-piston floating caliper torque spec:
View attachment 323138


2018 CX-5 rear brake caliper torque spec:

Funny thing is right now I’m doing the rear brake job on my 2000 BMW 528i and the sealing design of the caliper pins is different but the service manual says DON’T put any grease to the caliper pins! I usually turn my used rotors or drums as I feel throwing these things away is kind of a waste. But I found not only the places doing resurfacing rotors are scarce nowadays (only O’Reilly and Pep Boys in Dallas area), but also they’re pretty expensive ($25 ~ $50 each (last time it was $10 ~ $15 just a few years ago). From my experience the German cars I’ve owned, VW and BMW, they usually have very soft rotors. I simply can’t turn those rotors after a single pad life. I eventually found a nice manager at Brakes Plus near by and he’s willing to turn my rotors for $25 cash each. But after the measurement of the rotor thickness, the number simply too close to the minimum and he wouldn’t do it. Then just ordered Ate brake pads and rotors from FCP Euro.

 

[madar]

Here are the torque settings on caliper slide pins and caliper brackets from Mazda Workshop Manual for 2018 CX-5. Notice the inverse and bold “R” (Replace) pointed to all rubber boots of the caliper pins:


2018 CX-5 front brake single piston floating caliper torque spec:
View attachment 323137



2018 CX-5 front brake 2-piston floating caliper torque spec:
View attachment 323138


2018 CX-5 rear brake caliper torque spec:
View attachment 323139


Funny thing is right now I’m doing the rear brake job on my 2000 BMW 528i and the sealing design of the caliper pins is different but the service manual says DON’T put any grease to the caliper pins! I usually turn my used rotors or drums as I feel throwing these things away is kind of a waste. But I found not only the places doing resurfacing rotors are scarce nowadays (only O’Reilly and Pep Boys in Dallas area), but also they’re pretty expensive ($25 ~ $50 each (last time it was $10 ~ $15 just a few years ago). From my experience the German cars I’ve owned, VW and BMW, they usually have very soft rotors. I simply can’t turn those rotors after a single pad life. I eventually found a nice manager at Brakes Plus near by and he’s willing to turn my rotors for $25 cash each. But after the measurement of the rotor thickness, the number simply too close to the minimum and he wouldn’t do it. Then just ordered Ate brake pads and rotors from FCP Euro.

Funny, never noticed that before. I'll have to check the diagram on the 2013 manual, the one I referenced. Still won't do it if they look and seal good.

 

[bluefire_xl]

What other areas should I put a grease on? I did on the plates of the pads and a little on the tips that is touching the hardware plates