Crunch Audio good or bad?
- Thread starter kidrage24
- Start date
redwagon02
Member
- :
- '08 F150 FX2 screw - '06 G35 coupe - '06 GSXR600
only 2?
If your not doing shows and just want loud, cheap, sound then go for it.
I have 2 15in. Crunch Drive series subs in a sealed box in my MP3 with a 1200 watt Neon Splash amp and they sound great to me. Of course I am not a car audio buff, but they work fine and are really loud!
I wasn't shopping Crunch when I got these, I just ran across them at a yardsale and paid like 250 dollars for everything I listed above. Not bad if you ask me. All is in brand new condition and work perfectly.
I have 2 15in. Crunch Drive series subs in a sealed box in my MP3 with a 1200 watt Neon Splash amp and they sound great to me. Of course I am not a car audio buff, but they work fine and are really loud!
I wasn't shopping Crunch when I got these, I just ran across them at a yardsale and paid like 250 dollars for everything I listed above. Not bad if you ask me. All is in brand new condition and work perfectly.
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I am an audio buff
THEY SUCK.
Remember their specs are total crap. don't compare them by spec. Car audio unfortunitly needs to be compared with your ears and by price. If you have a budget and a basic goal in mind I might be able to help you pic some gear out.
THEY SUCK.
Remember their specs are total crap. don't compare them by spec. Car audio unfortunitly needs to be compared with your ears and by price. If you have a budget and a basic goal in mind I might be able to help you pic some gear out.
"Cheap" and "Show Quality" really don't belong in the same sentence.
But for excellent sound (maybe not competition level) at good bargains, JBL monoblock class D amps are the power source of choice for subs nowadays. You can get a 1200 watt mono sub amp, stable down to 1 ohm, for less that $300. And it's class D technology, so it runs efficiently, doesn't tax your alternator as much as a class A/B amp, and stays fairly cool. JBL is selling these things by the truckload, and they also have 600 watt and 300 watt variants of the same amp.
I am using two Rockford Fosgate amps. One is rated for 360 watts, the other for 500 - and I probably paid about $500 for the two - so $500 for nearly 900 watts RMS (and over 1000 peak) ain't too bad, either. RF amps are reliable and underrated - meaning they put out more power than they are "rated" for. Something like a Crunch, Jensen, Koiiler - if these are "rated" at 600 watts, it means it was able to produce 600 watts for about a tenth of a second overdriven into incredible clipping and distortion. You'll never see the "rated power" as useable watts out of a bad brand of amp.
But for excellent sound (maybe not competition level) at good bargains, JBL monoblock class D amps are the power source of choice for subs nowadays. You can get a 1200 watt mono sub amp, stable down to 1 ohm, for less that $300. And it's class D technology, so it runs efficiently, doesn't tax your alternator as much as a class A/B amp, and stays fairly cool. JBL is selling these things by the truckload, and they also have 600 watt and 300 watt variants of the same amp.
I am using two Rockford Fosgate amps. One is rated for 360 watts, the other for 500 - and I probably paid about $500 for the two - so $500 for nearly 900 watts RMS (and over 1000 peak) ain't too bad, either. RF amps are reliable and underrated - meaning they put out more power than they are "rated" for. Something like a Crunch, Jensen, Koiiler - if these are "rated" at 600 watts, it means it was able to produce 600 watts for about a tenth of a second overdriven into incredible clipping and distortion. You'll never see the "rated power" as useable watts out of a bad brand of amp.
First some reality. No car amplifier on earth is more then 50% efficient. For any amp to produce 1000 watts it must be pulling over a 140 amps to produce this much wattage and that would be assuming your charging system could maintain 14 volts during this drain. PS it can't! If you want to know how much poweer an amp can realy put out. take the amp rating of the fuse on the amp, half it then multiply that by 12.6 volts. This isn't a 100% accurate but its close.
For inexpensive system typicaly I usefor speakers JL TR series Coaxles, Boston Acoustics FX series or eclipse. Decks are offereing good stuff for little money so a $200 Alpine CDM7874, Eclipse 54400 or an equaly priced Kenwood will give you 2 pre-outs and good clean sound, Best SQ is the Eclipse but it breaks the most. There are 2 real gems when it comes to inexpensive amps and those are the Alpine's Vpower series and Kenwoods 729s and 819, Basicly all of Kenwoods entry amps are very good bargins. Good inexpensive subs goes to JL Audio. 10W0's are outstanding and if you want a ported box Xtants A series 10's are amazing fir the aplication.
My experience isn't limited to talking to other people or just listening to a few peoples cars. I am an installer for tweeter. All of the products I have listed have realy impressed me andI have a great deal of faith in their performance potential.
For my dollar I would stay away from Rockford in that they have noise issues and are moving toward a Pioneer of Sony mind set. Sony is deffintly the worst major player in the mobile audio industry. Most of their products are simply garbage. Tweeter just stopped carrying them due to their reliablity issues and sinking quality. Basicly Best Buy and Walmart are not places to by good audio products. Car audio doesn't have to be expensive but it does have to be done right to have positive results.
For inexpensive system typicaly I usefor speakers JL TR series Coaxles, Boston Acoustics FX series or eclipse. Decks are offereing good stuff for little money so a $200 Alpine CDM7874, Eclipse 54400 or an equaly priced Kenwood will give you 2 pre-outs and good clean sound, Best SQ is the Eclipse but it breaks the most. There are 2 real gems when it comes to inexpensive amps and those are the Alpine's Vpower series and Kenwoods 729s and 819, Basicly all of Kenwoods entry amps are very good bargins. Good inexpensive subs goes to JL Audio. 10W0's are outstanding and if you want a ported box Xtants A series 10's are amazing fir the aplication.
My experience isn't limited to talking to other people or just listening to a few peoples cars. I am an installer for tweeter. All of the products I have listed have realy impressed me andI have a great deal of faith in their performance potential.
For my dollar I would stay away from Rockford in that they have noise issues and are moving toward a Pioneer of Sony mind set. Sony is deffintly the worst major player in the mobile audio industry. Most of their products are simply garbage. Tweeter just stopped carrying them due to their reliablity issues and sinking quality. Basicly Best Buy and Walmart are not places to by good audio products. Car audio doesn't have to be expensive but it does have to be done right to have positive results.
My two Rockford amps perform flawlessly, and I feel they are good bargains. I understand that the older Fosgate amps are considered to be superior to the newer models, but like I said - I have no problems. Rockfords are underrated, and tend to meet or exceed their rated power output.1st MP3 in NH said:
Could you elaborate on the "noise" comment? I'm not doubting your opinion - I know that RF amps are not the highest of the high-end in car audio. But I'm just curious what exactly you mean by "noise".
I have found that in my dealing with newer punch series RF amps to satelite speakers that their is a high level of noise then I notice in the Xtants, Alpines, and Kenwoods I have installed. The noise is an underlining static that is always present and they tend to distort earlier then other amps I setup. As far as them being underated this isn't realy the case anymore. 5 years ago a 50x2 RF amp would be capable of almost 500 watts of output now the amps are rated to a lower voltage then the testing voltage of the birthcertificate. RF likes to quote power at 13.8V not 12.6. I simply dont find tem worth the money.
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what about
pioneer amps? ive been looking at a 760w pioneer (i think it was the GM-X962). I want to have that power 2 10" dual voice coil pioneer IMPP subs in a sealed enclosure (ported & banpassed are to ghetto for bass)
also what do you think about the sony 760W amp? its only $225 CAD! the 760w rateing it has is obviously BS
theirs also a Jensen 500w amp for sale ($150 CAD) at a local car audio dealer, 500w lol yeah right it probably has 75w RMS x2, so that would be perfect for my front speakers (Clarion 5x7 plate SRC5794)
pioneer amps? ive been looking at a 760w pioneer (i think it was the GM-X962). I want to have that power 2 10" dual voice coil pioneer IMPP subs in a sealed enclosure (ported & banpassed are to ghetto for bass)
also what do you think about the sony 760W amp? its only $225 CAD! the 760w rateing it has is obviously BS
theirs also a Jensen 500w amp for sale ($150 CAD) at a local car audio dealer, 500w lol yeah right it probably has 75w RMS x2, so that would be perfect for my front speakers (Clarion 5x7 plate SRC5794)
Pioneer still has some good stuff but I always aviod amps with ludicrous ratings. It the first warning of a POS!. just find a quality amp that will match your power needs. if you want a real 50 x 2 thier are alot of good brands out there that are resonablly priced but make sure they have that power at a resonable voltage, I usualy buy for the 12 volt rating.
4x6 plates would realy only want about 30 good clean watts with an adjustable high pass crossover. I would aviod bestbuy brands for the most part.
4x6 plates would realy only want about 30 good clean watts with an adjustable high pass crossover. I would aviod bestbuy brands for the most part.
