I've been pressure washing our vinyl fence the past two days (pro tip: don't ever buy one). Have some more to do tomorrow to finish and then maybe some other things. I've set aside the weekend to get her back together as she should be (supposed to rain here so a good time for it). Hopefully Monday will be the test drive.
NB MX-5: Hey, it's Minnie!
- Thread starter chiefmg
- Start date
After finishing up my household chores, Saturday morning I began the ‘charger install. Started off with this:
Then came the removal of the front bumper and lower splash guard for access. Taking a look underneath, I found that the other two coolant leaks I had were both from the lower radiator hose mentioned previously (leaks were at both ends, luckily I recently bought a new Dayco hose on clearance from Rock Auto). Drained/pulled the radiator. Removed that lower hose to clear it out of the way. Once I had a good unobstructed view of that side of the engine, I found more residue from the old ‘charger snout oil had worked its way all over. I proceeded to clean that up as best I could, some spots were just too hard to get into without pulling the engine.
Next step was to install the relocation brackets for the radiator and A/C condenser support. I had them all in but was looking at it and realized that the picture I was working from originally was likely wrong. This is how it looked:
This left a gap underneath the outer plate which meant some flexing could happen.
I found by putting the plate that used to be on the very top underneath the other plate, it took up that gap so everything could be properly tightened down.
The second picture better shows how the plates lie together now.
My old TrackDog Racing header blanket had seen better days so I bought a new one. It is a lot larger than their old offering. New attachment brackets were included, I used on for the front but found out once I had the ‘charger where it belongs that bracket was preventing the ‘charger mount bolts from lining up. Out came a punch and the hammer so I could correct that problem.
While trying to get the A/C condenser situated, I heard a loud hiss and saw a mist. Sure enough, I had a hole. Wasn’t sure if it was in the drier or the hard pipe attached to it, it was that hard pipe:
That pipe is NLA new from Mazda. I’m guessing Mazda changed the configuration for the 2001 model year as I can find that line available. For whatever reason, ’99-2000 had this small pipe:
I am getting a used one from SNS Mazda Parts, along with a new drier from Rock Auto since I noted some rub damage to that from the intercooler mount bolt on that side.
I’m at a bit of a standstill for now until the parts show up, but I did get this far:
Sharp eyes will spot my highlighting work on the outlet manifold.
Then came the removal of the front bumper and lower splash guard for access. Taking a look underneath, I found that the other two coolant leaks I had were both from the lower radiator hose mentioned previously (leaks were at both ends, luckily I recently bought a new Dayco hose on clearance from Rock Auto). Drained/pulled the radiator. Removed that lower hose to clear it out of the way. Once I had a good unobstructed view of that side of the engine, I found more residue from the old ‘charger snout oil had worked its way all over. I proceeded to clean that up as best I could, some spots were just too hard to get into without pulling the engine.
Next step was to install the relocation brackets for the radiator and A/C condenser support. I had them all in but was looking at it and realized that the picture I was working from originally was likely wrong. This is how it looked:
This left a gap underneath the outer plate which meant some flexing could happen.
I found by putting the plate that used to be on the very top underneath the other plate, it took up that gap so everything could be properly tightened down.
The second picture better shows how the plates lie together now.
My old TrackDog Racing header blanket had seen better days so I bought a new one. It is a lot larger than their old offering. New attachment brackets were included, I used on for the front but found out once I had the ‘charger where it belongs that bracket was preventing the ‘charger mount bolts from lining up. Out came a punch and the hammer so I could correct that problem.
While trying to get the A/C condenser situated, I heard a loud hiss and saw a mist. Sure enough, I had a hole. Wasn’t sure if it was in the drier or the hard pipe attached to it, it was that hard pipe:
That pipe is NLA new from Mazda. I’m guessing Mazda changed the configuration for the 2001 model year as I can find that line available. For whatever reason, ’99-2000 had this small pipe:
I am getting a used one from SNS Mazda Parts, along with a new drier from Rock Auto since I noted some rub damage to that from the intercooler mount bolt on that side.
I’m at a bit of a standstill for now until the parts show up, but I did get this far:
Sharp eyes will spot my highlighting work on the outlet manifold.
A/C parts showed up, drier and O-ring set came first. I got the O-rings just to be thorough. I put the new drier in with the same orientation as the old one. While putting things away I noticed that the old one had IN stamped on the top (the inlet side). I checked the new one and found it had IN stamped on the bottom as I had installed it. Hmmm. It wouldn’t really fit properly switched around (I tried) so I pulled it off and looked inside the really small opening. Based on what I saw it was oriented correctly with the IN on the bottom as I had installed it. Also the construction of the cartridge (with a weld join mark) was the same as the old one with how I installed it. Here’s a couple of pictures of both driers:
Not too sure about this but I will find out once I get the system evacuated and pressurized.
The pipe came in Friday so I got that installed today. No pictures because, well, I wanted to get the job done. That went well, then came the true joy of installing the charge pipes. I forgot how much fun that was, but that changed once I started getting scrapes on the backs of my hands from the A/C condenser. I did myself a favor compared to when I originally installed the system by having the horns removed to allow more avenues for access. Time will tell if I got the clamps tight enough, or if they will come loose like the first time I did this dance.
There is a part called an air guide (part number NC1050A21). There are three screws that are along the front edge, mine have been not snug since I got the car. I figure someone in the past overtightened them and stripped the holes. I was going to just fill the holes with some plastic putty then redrill the holes, but after getting the number off the part and looking it up online, I found I could get a new one from a local dealer for about $100. I ordered that in what should have been enough time to get it before finishing my assembly but someone at the dealer dropped the ball. This has resulted in my filling/drilling the holes as originally planned, until the new part comes in.
Once I got everything buttoned up (BTW, a Lisle coolant funnel makes refilling your system a treat. Also helps having the Supermiata reroute with the vent valve at the back of the head. No spillage whatsoever), I plugged in the laptop so I could calibrate the TPS. Then I fired her up. She started right up but died quickly. After another couple of go-arounds, I figured it was due to a combination of being cold and the idle screw needing a little adjusting. I’m going to adjust the idle another day, had to get things cleaned up so I could put the wife’s car back in the garage. She was irritated that I took longer than I said I would. Sorry dear, I didn’t plan on breaking my A/C pipe!
Not too sure about this but I will find out once I get the system evacuated and pressurized.
The pipe came in Friday so I got that installed today. No pictures because, well, I wanted to get the job done. That went well, then came the true joy of installing the charge pipes. I forgot how much fun that was, but that changed once I started getting scrapes on the backs of my hands from the A/C condenser. I did myself a favor compared to when I originally installed the system by having the horns removed to allow more avenues for access. Time will tell if I got the clamps tight enough, or if they will come loose like the first time I did this dance.
There is a part called an air guide (part number NC1050A21). There are three screws that are along the front edge, mine have been not snug since I got the car. I figure someone in the past overtightened them and stripped the holes. I was going to just fill the holes with some plastic putty then redrill the holes, but after getting the number off the part and looking it up online, I found I could get a new one from a local dealer for about $100. I ordered that in what should have been enough time to get it before finishing my assembly but someone at the dealer dropped the ball. This has resulted in my filling/drilling the holes as originally planned, until the new part comes in.
Once I got everything buttoned up (BTW, a Lisle coolant funnel makes refilling your system a treat. Also helps having the Supermiata reroute with the vent valve at the back of the head. No spillage whatsoever), I plugged in the laptop so I could calibrate the TPS. Then I fired her up. She started right up but died quickly. After another couple of go-arounds, I figured it was due to a combination of being cold and the idle screw needing a little adjusting. I’m going to adjust the idle another day, had to get things cleaned up so I could put the wife’s car back in the garage. She was irritated that I took longer than I said I would. Sorry dear, I didn’t plan on breaking my A/C pipe!
Idle adjusted. It’s a little high now, I’m going to remove the intake tube coming from the air filter so I can better access the idle screw. Going to also shorten the throttle cable then to get the slack closer to where it should be.
The boost gauge wasn’t reading so I got into that today. Turned out I had not connected one of the wires when I changed over to the MS3 so that is working now. While I was under the dash I checked on the Singular mounting bracket for the MS. I thought about while I was at work and wondered if maybe I had tried putting it in the reverse of what it should have been. Saw a picture of one for sale and from how things were oriented, it appeared that was the case. Here is how it should be mounted:
I put my brackets on the MS and mounted it to the Singular piece. I was all excited, until I tried putting it in. It did go in okay, but I found that even with the 90 degree adapter I had for the large serial cable there was interference with a bracket for the clutch pedal. So out that all came and I put it back in zip-tied to the steering column. Now I’ll have to sell that bracket.
I took her out for a quick test drive to see how things go. I had forgotten how much fun it is with a supercharger on it. Lots of extra grunt down low where it is good. I do need to figure out why I have so much extra fuel in boost, this is a different problem from the one I had with the MS2. My AFR values look good so it’s puzzling.
Here is the air guide I was talking about:
I have an appointment to get my A/C system evacuated and charged on Friday, I’ll install this afterwards just in case they find a leak and I have to remove it anyway to fix that. Pictures of where it lives then.
The boost gauge wasn’t reading so I got into that today. Turned out I had not connected one of the wires when I changed over to the MS3 so that is working now. While I was under the dash I checked on the Singular mounting bracket for the MS. I thought about while I was at work and wondered if maybe I had tried putting it in the reverse of what it should have been. Saw a picture of one for sale and from how things were oriented, it appeared that was the case. Here is how it should be mounted:
I put my brackets on the MS and mounted it to the Singular piece. I was all excited, until I tried putting it in. It did go in okay, but I found that even with the 90 degree adapter I had for the large serial cable there was interference with a bracket for the clutch pedal. So out that all came and I put it back in zip-tied to the steering column. Now I’ll have to sell that bracket.
I took her out for a quick test drive to see how things go. I had forgotten how much fun it is with a supercharger on it. Lots of extra grunt down low where it is good. I do need to figure out why I have so much extra fuel in boost, this is a different problem from the one I had with the MS2. My AFR values look good so it’s puzzling.
Here is the air guide I was talking about:
I have an appointment to get my A/C system evacuated and charged on Friday, I’ll install this afterwards just in case they find a leak and I have to remove it anyway to fix that. Pictures of where it lives then.
Went in to get the A/C charged. While on the way I heard a boost leak. Got the A/C work done, there was no leakage indicated after the system was evacuated, made me happy my fittings were tight. Talked to the guy who did the work, he has an older Mistu Evo. As we were talking about boost leaks, he said he uses hairspray to keep couplers from slipping. Never heard of that trick so decided to give it a shot.
Did the hairspray trick, seems to have worked. I also found that one of the couplers on the outlet of the intercooler had slipped completely off so that was the main source of the leak. Corrected that so for now everything on the boost side is tight.
After messing with the idle adjustment a couple of times, I knew there had to be a better way. There is a very limited amount of space to get any sort of tool in there as you can see:
Something brought an angle wrench into my head so I did a search and found these on Amazon:
Those work a treat.
Went to a local cars and coffee yesterday. The place I used to always go to closed down several years ago, I knew it had been a while since I went but was surprised to find that out.
Did the hairspray trick, seems to have worked. I also found that one of the couplers on the outlet of the intercooler had slipped completely off so that was the main source of the leak. Corrected that so for now everything on the boost side is tight.
After messing with the idle adjustment a couple of times, I knew there had to be a better way. There is a very limited amount of space to get any sort of tool in there as you can see:
Something brought an angle wrench into my head so I did a search and found these on Amazon:
Those work a treat.
Went to a local cars and coffee yesterday. The place I used to always go to closed down several years ago, I knew it had been a while since I went but was surprised to find that out.
Had the time yesterday so put the front up in the air and pulled the front bumper. That gave access to the air guide, seen here:
It is held in place by six fasteners, four on the front and the remaining two to the sides (which also hold the undertray and fog light bracket braces). New one went in without trouble, and I made sure I did not overtighten the three bolts at the very front. All in it took only a little over an hour start to finish. One of the benefits of working on it so much.
It is held in place by six fasteners, four on the front and the remaining two to the sides (which also hold the undertray and fog light bracket braces). New one went in without trouble, and I made sure I did not overtighten the three bolts at the very front. All in it took only a little over an hour start to finish. One of the benefits of working on it so much.
I see I didn’t mention how much I was away from home for work last year into this year (to the tune of only having a total of one and a half months home over a 14 month period), but it was a lot. That is by way of my excuse for the next confession, because my brain was fried. I had noticed there was a radiator hose (to connect the thermostat housing on the back of the head to the top of the radiator) in the box that held all the supercharger bits. It didn’t dawn on me that I needed it for the supercharger installation as the radiator sits back about four inches from the stock location. During one of my times under the hood I wondered why that hose was kinked up when it wasn’t before. The other night it finally clicked and I realized that when I put her back to NA while the supercharger was off getting overhauled, I had replaced that hose with the longer one. Doh! Anyway I took care of swapping those out today so things are where they should be.
Similar Thread
-
New Here & Needing Advice & It's Sad But True- Started by DeathGun2020
- Replies: 3
