Crossover problem

Does anyone know the location of the factory crossovers for the front door speakers? My set of JBL GTO 606c's came with crossovers and I wanted to use them. The local shop guy just told me to just use the same line that hooked up to the factory 5x7. I was unsure that there was a factory crossover so I attempted it. So I did that for one side just to test it out and it indeeds sounds as if that line had the frequencies sorted. The tweeter didn't sound as clear as the other side with the untouched wiring.

Anyone stumble across this? Or should I just use that factory x-over with my components? Is there any benefit from using the aftermarket-provided crossover or is it just a waste of time and effort? I've been wanting to run an amplifier for my mids/highs but these obstacles just keep showing up. (help)
 
There is no factory crossover. The tweeter is simply run in parallel with the midrange. I think they pretty much use a cap inline or let the tweeter's nat freq response do the blocking.

Basically, if you have an aftermarket set of components and a crossover, then they are matched to work together. So, yes...that's what you should be using.just make sure your signal line into the crossover is the one that used to be on the 5x7...or just run new wires from an amp into the doors. ;)
 
servoeyes said:
There is no factory crossover. The tweeter is simply run in parallel with the midrange. I think they pretty much use a cap inline or let the tweeter's nat freq response do the blocking.

Basically, if you have an aftermarket set of components and a crossover, then they are matched to work together. So, yes...that's what you should be using.just make sure your signal line into the crossover is the one that used to be on the 5x7...or just run new wires from an amp into the doors. ;)
Hmm, how interesting. Well, since there's more clarity and sound quality WITHOUT the crossover, wouldn't I be better off amplifying the two speakers without the provided crossover?

I think I should also check whether I accidentally wired the speaker in series. If that's the case, it might possibly explain why it sounds so much weaker now.
 
how do you know if there is more clarity and sound quality if you havnt tried the aftermarket crossover yet??

i seriously doubt there is any crossover inline with the setup. its mostly just a cap in the tweeter to keep low frequencies out and the mid will be playing full range. youlle get allot more out of a speaker if you use the crossover that was designed for it.
 
also, if youre using the stock deck still to run the speakers they're going to sound like s*** cause the stock deck only puts out like 15w rms or so, leaving your new JBLs hungry for more power. when you hook up an amp to the new set of components and give them the power they need theyll sound sooo much better. id say keep your stockers until you get an amp for up front, then hook it all up at once.
 
sndsgood said:
how do you know if there is more clarity and sound quality if you havnt tried the aftermarket crossover yet??

i seriously doubt there is any crossover inline with the setup. its mostly just a cap in the tweeter to keep low frequencies out and the mid will be playing full range. youlle get allot more out of a speaker if you use the crossover that was designed for it.
Well as I said in the first post, I tried hooking up the aftermarket crossover to one side while the other side retained the factory wiring. The 606c's sounded fine, crisp, and clear before I hooked up the line (going to the mid) to the crossover (then from the crossover to the woofer and tweeter). So the side with the crossover sounds a lot weaker now while the side without the crossover added still sounds as good as it did.

I already have the amplifier and LOC. I'm just waiting for the local shop to receive shipment on my reverse harness. I still need to check if the x-over'd side is wired in series. I know it'd be best if I ran new wire from the amp, but the guide for getting wire through the front doors seems very strenuous.
 
if you're amping, without a doubt put the crossoer onit. You're risking damage if you don't. Make sure you disconnect the factory tweeter as well.
 
okay your original post didnt really specify that u used the crossover, it appeared you just tried the stock wiring.

if your amp is on the way wait for that and run the crossovers. what your hearing is likely do to the lack in power, the aftermarket will rob a small amount of power and your allready starving the speakers as it is by using the stock radio power. they were made to handle allot more power then the stock unit is putting out.
 
^^ what he said... However, I'd run that crossover anywhich way, just get it wired right from the start so you don't have to mess with it. THey'r enot designed to be "optional" components of the speaker system.
 
sndsgood said:
okay your original post didnt really specify that u used the crossover, it appeared you just tried the stock wiring.

if your amp is on the way wait for that and run the crossovers. what your hearing is likely do to the lack in power, the aftermarket will rob a small amount of power and your allready starving the speakers as it is by using the stock radio power. they were made to handle allot more power then the stock unit is putting out.
Yeah, I said I "did that for one side just to test it out" in the first post.

Anyway, I have both sets of components hooked up to their respective crossovers and changed out the rear speakers to a set of 6.5" 2-ways. I decided not to put in the amplifier but I changed out the headunit to a Pioneer DEH-P9200R. With the equalizer set and the HPF set to 50Hz, everything sounds so crisp and clear and furthermore, the system itself is already quite deafening, there shouldn't be a need to amplify it anymore unless I really wanted to go deaf.

I also figured out why previously the side without the crossover sounded a lot louder. Since servoeyes said in his post that the factory speaker and tweeter were hooked up in parallel, I concluded that I had one side hooked up in parallel as well, yielding a 2-ohm load for that channel. And that's why it was louder. I also brought it by the local audio shop and the rep suggested using the crossovers regardless since it has a special circuit that prevents the tweeter from overheating.

Also, now that I have good mids, highs, and the factory spare-tire sub acting as a good midbass, I'm looking into hooking up an aftermarket subwoofer for a more defined listening range. I had previously in my 240SX a Bazooka RS104DV passive tube hooked up to a Bazooka EL1600 amplifier running it at its advertised 2 ohm load of 500W RMS x1 @ 14.4V. Well, I'm thinking of using another passive tube setup for my Proteg5 using my Alpine 4ch bridged to two 4-ohm loads. It sounds like a great plan, but now I have a problem. I have the Scosche dash-kit for my aftermarket receiver. I need to hook up the RCA cables and remote wire, but I have no clue how to remove the darn thing. Help, anyone?
 
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