Guide ATF Drain/Fill

[yrwei52]

I'm just gonna pick up a new pan when I do a fluid change with the filter next time. Previously just fluid only the last two times.

Trans Pan - Mazda (FZ01-21-51XB) MSRP: $55.98

Could be an alternative to save some time cleaning the RTV on the old ATF pan.

 

[Lbear]

At 122F, the fluid is at the low mark. How much more fluid to bring it to full?

I ran out of trans fluid after 5 quarts. I need to get 1 more quart at the Mazda dealer.

 

[dunhillmc]

At 122F, the fluid is at the low mark. How much more fluid to bring it to full?

View attachment 321713

I ran out of trans fluid after 5 quarts. I need to get 1 more quart at the Mazda dealer.

you don't want it at 'full'. you want it to be at the center rectangle marker

 

[Lbear]

you don't want it at 'full'. you want it to be at the center rectangle marker

So at 122F the fluid is between the center rectangle and below the 122F line. Good enough for me.

Ran it up to temperature twice and so far no leaks. I will take it for a test drive slowly down the driveway without the plastic bottom cover and then check for leaks before I install the cover.

 

[yrwei52]

So at 122F the fluid is between the center rectangle and below the 122F line. Good enough for me.

Ran it up to temperature twice and so far no leaks. I will take it for a test drive slowly down the driveway without the plastic bottom cover and then check for leaks before I install the cover.

Yes, the square marker is the target ATF level at 122°F with engine idling. If this’s the first ATF change with the pan dropping, you can do 2 more drain-and-fills and get about 87.5% of the fresh ATF content. And you can adjust the ATF level properly in the final drain-and-fill.

BTW, which OBDII scanner you’re using to read the ATF temperature?

 

[Lbear]

Ran i

Yes, the square marker is the target ATF level at 122°F with engine idling. If this’s the first ATF change with the pan dropping, you can do 2 more drain-and-fills and get about 87.5% of the fresh ATF content. And you can adjust the ATF level properly in the final drain-and-fill.

BTW, which OBDII scanner you’re using to read the ATF temperature?

View attachment 321742
View attachment 321743

I used a thermal laser gun to get temps.

I've done 2 fluid changes prior to doing a 3rd fluid/filter change just now. I believe it is good enough for now where it is at on the dipstick. When driving around that fluid is sloshing around on turns, stops, going uphill/downhill. It's almost never level inside the trans pan. Steep hills, sharp turns, That fluid is sloshing around like crazy. As long as it's not overfilled by some crazy amount like a 1/2 quart or probably 1 quart, it's fine. The difference in fluid from the center rectangle to the full mark is very minute. I don't see a point in adjusting it for now to take out like 30ml of fluid. It's good enough for government work Send it!

 

[yrwei52]

I used a thermal laser gun to get temps.

I've done 2 fluid changes prior to doing a 3rd fluid/filter change just now. I believe it is good enough for now where it is at on the dipstick. When driving around that fluid is sloshing around on turns, stops, going uphill/downhill. It's almost never level inside the trans pan. Steep hills, sharp turns, That fluid is sloshing around like crazy. As long as it's not overfilled by some crazy amount like a 1/2 quart or probably 1 quart, it's fine. The difference in fluid from the center rectangle to the full mark is very minute. I don't see a point in adjusting it for now to take out like 30ml of fluid. It's good enough for government work Send it!

Here:

I think the plan is to skip the pan drop, but definitely do 1 or 2 more drain-and-fills. My OBDII reader doesn't do ATF temp so I have to admit this was not very scientific- while the plastic undercarriage protector was down over the weekend I used an infrared temperature gauge on the pan.

Infrared reader won't give you an accurate reading, I tried it and compared it to my OB2. Maybe get a thermometer for checking meat temperature and stick it in there if you want to get more accurate.

As for how much the ATF level would get affected by the temperature, see this:

I checked the factory-filled ATF on my 2.5T (2021 GT Turbo). Not easy but doable. Had 5 extensions and a 10mm socket, took the securing bolt off the dipstick, and was able to slither my arms down and pull the dipstick out. Not THAT difficult in the grand scheme of things.

The level was PERFECT, slightly overfilled by 1mm on the dipstick, just the way I like it. I prefer slightly overfilled than slightly underfilled.

Not all transmissions are underfilled from factory it seems. Glad I checked and have peace of mind.

You guys were right, I checked the ATF while idling and it was low. The ATF was at around 25-30 C (77-86 F). I added 600ml and it came up to the middle of the 2 lines, so perfect. I don't think ATF expansion is that great that I need to check at 122F, and I'm guessing if I were to check at 122F it would be closer to the top line.

I also changed the rear diff and front transfer case, and they both took about 0.5L each. Not too complicated.

Update: I warmed up the transmission fluid to 51C / 123F and re-checked level (car idling, level surface) and it was just below the Full line. MS Paint artwork attached.

Summary: added 600ml to factory fluid to bring it up to full level. I did not drain and fill since car has 30K km / 18K miles.

View attachment 320245

 

[GoodGuyDudu]

Hi all!

Got a few questions as I started my 1st of drain and fill on way to a filter replacement on my 2016.5.

Drained about 3.5qts of fluid. It was drained and refilled by a Mazda dealership about 25k miles ago. I measure it using the Mazda procedure: 122f, pull dipstick, wipe it, insert, pull out and check. But when I do that, there is barely any fluid on the dipstick, like seen in my picture. The fluid goes up on the dipstick when I run through gears (and I do so plenty of times while the fluid warms up to 122f). Car is on levelled surface and running when checking. Now at 4qts of ATF since drain.

- What am I doing wrong?
- Is it possible that it was so underfilled that it now needs more to bring it to the correct level?
-I noticed the dipstick is curved, but the positioning has not change anything.
-Should I check the level AFTER running through gears?

Thanks a lot for your help!!

 

[ruthrj]

Hi all!

Got a few questions as I started my 1st of drain and fill on way to a filter replacement on my 2016.5.

Drained about 3.5qts of fluid. It was drained and refilled by a Mazda dealership about 25k miles ago. I measure it using the Mazda procedure: 122f, pull dipstick, wipe it, insert, pull out and check. But when I do that, there is barely any fluid on the dipstick, like seen in my picture. The fluid goes up on the dipstick when I run through gears (and I do so plenty of times while the fluid warms up to 122f). Car is on levelled surface and running when checking. Now at 4qts of ATF since drain.

- What am I doing wrong?
- Is it possible that it was so underfilled that it now needs more to bring it to the correct level?
-I noticed the dipstick is curved, but the positioning has not change anything.
-Should I check the level AFTER running through gears?

Thanks a lot for your help!!

Got to keep filling until that fluid is in the range on the dipstick, engine running, fluid at 122F. Doesn’t hurt to cycle the gears prior to checking.

 

[yrwei52]

Hi all!

Got a few questions as I started my 1st of drain and fill on way to a filter replacement on my 2016.5.

Drained about 3.5qts of fluid. It was drained and refilled by a Mazda dealership about 25k miles ago. I measure it using the Mazda procedure: 122f, pull dipstick, wipe it, insert, pull out and check. But when I do that, there is barely any fluid on the dipstick, like seen in my picture. The fluid goes up on the dipstick when I run through gears (and I do so plenty of times while the fluid warms up to 122f). Car is on levelled surface and running when checking. Now at 4qts of ATF since drain.

- What am I doing wrong?
- Is it possible that it was so underfilled that it now needs more to bring it to the correct level?
-I noticed the dipstick is curved, but the positioning has not change anything.
-Should I check the level AFTER running through gears?

Thanks a lot for your help!!

Firstly, how did you measure the ATF temperature?

- if you use capable OBDII scanner and read the ATF temperature at 122°F, AND took the ATF level while the engine is idling, you did nothing wrong.

- Yes, it looked like your Mazda dealer was under-filled 25K miles ago (check the invoice for ATF quantity used.). And it isn’t the news anymore that Mazda under-filled our ATF at factory too. Never use the quantity drained out as the reference to re-fill your ATF. From many reports here, about 3.75 quarts is the right quantity to re-fill during a simple drain-and-fill.

- Your ATF dipstick is curved? Overheated?

- Yes, many check the level AFTER running through gears.

 

[GoodGuyDudu]

Firstly, how did you measure the ATF temperature?

- if you use capable OBDII scanner and read the ATF temperature at 122°F, AND took the ATF level while the engine is idling, you did nothing wrong.

- Yes, it looked like your Mazda dealer was under-filled 25K miles ago (check the invoice for ATF quantity used.). And it isn’t the news anymore that Mazda under-filled our ATF at factory too. Never use the quantity drained out as the reference to re-fill your ATF. From many reports here, about 3.75 quarts is the right quantity to re-fill during a simple drain-and-fill.

- Your ATF dipstick is curved? Overheated?

- Yes, many check the level AFTER running through gears.

Sorry maybe curved was not the right word, but it's not straight, it looks inclined on one side (see attached photo form YouTube video). I see that they all look like that so I'm reassured!

So yes, I use a VEEPEAK OBD2 tool and Car Scanner app for my phone. I'm just confused since when running through gears seem to make the dipstick read more and when using Mazda's "pull out, wipe, insert, pull out and check level", I get a not even half of checking after running gears!

 

[GoodGuyDudu]

So a little update, after I drained 4 qts (measured with oil container), I added just about 4 qts and and now, at 122f, it reads just around the middle rectangle! I started with 3.7 and it was bot enough, added some until it reads perfectly while at 122f.

I've read so much about other people's experience, that I was 110% convinced it was going to be 3.75qts, but I ended up needing 4qts on my 1st and 2nd drain and fill.

It seems like a notable difference, Am I doing something wrong? Should this difference worry me?

Thanks in advance, I appreciate everyone's input and knowledge on this.

 

[yrwei52]

So a little update, after I drained 4 qts (measured with oil container), I added just about 4 qts and and now, at 122f, it reads just around the middle rectangle! I started with 3.7 and it was bot enough, added some until it reads perfectly while at 122f.

I've read so much about other people's experience, that I was 110% convinced it was going to be 3.75qts, but I ended up needing 4qts on my 1st and 2nd drain and fill.

It seems like a notable difference, Am I doing something wrong? Should this difference worry me?

Thanks in advance, I appreciate everyone's input and knowledge on this.

Where did you get your Mazda ATF FZ? If you got it from Mazdashop.ca by Scarboro Mazda for the best price available, it came with 1-liter bottle which is 1.05669 quarts.

⋯ I got genuine Mazda fluid in liters from Mazdashop online - they had the best price and it was half what my local dealership in Florida is charging.
⋯
If you want to do a "Triple Drain and Fill" without changing the filter, buy 11 quarts of transmission fluid.

Here: https://mazdashop.ca/products/mazda-automatic-transmission-fluid-atf-fz-skyactiv

$11.16 No Tax, No Freight.

This's a great find from Canada. The price is changing due to the floating exchange rate. Now it's $11.20 USD.

The part number is different 0000-23-ATF-FZ instead of 0000-FZ-113E-01 may be due to its 1-liter capacity 1.05669 quarts which means it's even cheaper as each bottle has more. The labels on the bottle are different too.

You have a 2016.5 CX-5, your ATF capacity should be similar to everybody else with gen-1 CX-5. Newer CX-5’s with cylinder deactivation and turbo may have different ATF pan configuration (hence those aftermarket pan gasket won’t fit) with a bit larger ATF capacity.

As long as you have followed the procedure outlined on the Mazda workshop manual: car leveled、engine is idling while checking the ATF level (I’d cycle through the gears at least once before checking)、ATF temp @ 122°F、 and the level is on the “central marker area” of the dipstick, you should be fine. The variation amount of the ATF would be even bigger when you drop the pan, 4.75 ~ 6 quarts have been reported.

 

[GoodGuyDudu]

Where did you get your Mazda ATF FZ? If you got it from Mazdashop.ca by Scarboro Mazda for the best price available, it came with 1-liter bottle which is 1.05669 quarts.





You have a 2016.5 CX-5, your ATF capacity should be similar to everybody else with gen-1 CX-5. Newer CX-5’s with cylinder deactivation and turbo may have different ATF pan configuration (hence those aftermarket pan gasket won’t fit) with a bit larger ATF capacity.

As long as you have followed the procedure outlined on the Mazda workshop manual: car leveled、engine is idling while checking the ATF level (I’d cycle through the gears at least once before checking)、ATF temp @ 122°F、 and the level is on the “central marker area” of the dipstick, you should be fine. The variation amount of the ATF would be even bigger when you drop the pan, 4.75 ~ 6 quarts have been reported.

Yes, followed every single step! And I bought the bottles at my local Calgary Mazda dealer, but been using the quarts measurement instead of liter one since this was the reference here.

I'm letting it cool now, and I will check again later to see my measurement!

 

[yrwei52]

Yes, followed every single step! And I bought the bottles at my local Calgary Mazda dealer, but been using the quarts measurement instead of liter one since this was the reference here.

I'm letting it cool now, and I will check again later to see my measurement!

Not sure about VEEPEAK OBD2 tool and Car Scanner app. There’re some apps use the coolant temp data displayed as the ATF temp. If you see both coolant temp and ATF temp are the same, your ATF temp readout isn’t the true ATF temp. It might explain why you need a bit more ATF as your true ATF temp is lower than 122°F (ATF warming up slower than the engine coolant) and you need a bit more to reach the mark with colder ATF.

 

[GoodGuyDudu]

Not sure about VEEPEAK OBD2 tool and Car Scanner app. There’re some apps use the coolant temp data displayed as the ATF temp. If you see both coolant temp and ATF temp are the same, your ATF temp readout isn’t the true ATF temp. It might explains why you need a bit more ATF as your true ATF temp is lower than 122°F (ATF warming up slower than the engine coolant) and you need a bit more to reach the mark with colder ATF.

I was also unsure about the app, but I had coolant and ATF temps on the app dashboard and kept looking at both and saw they were different, the coolant getting warm faster than the ATF. Kind of told me that the were separate!

The name of the app (free version btw) is Car Scanner ELM OBD2 from the Google Play Store.

 

[yrwei52]

I was also unsure about the app, but I had coolant and ATF temps on the app dashboard and kept looking at both and saw they were different, the coolant getting warm faster than the ATF. Kind of told me that the were separate!

The name of the app (free version btw) is Car Scanner ELM OBD2 from the Google Play Store.

Looks like your app is fine. Keep us posted for your next ATF level checking and drain-and-fill / dropping the pan.

 

[GoodGuyDudu]

Looks like your app is fine. Keep us posted for your next ATF level checking and drain-and-fill / dropping the pan.

Will do, thanks for you help and guidance! Dropping the pan in ~300 miles!

 

[GoodGuyDudu]

Something I found online that I thought might be helpful when re-installing the pan: snap ups by Fel-Pro. They screw in the corners and hold the pan and help with the alignment. I will buy them to test.

Video tutorial: How to Install an Oil Pan Gasket with SnapUps Installation Aid | Fel-Pro Gaskets

 

[ruthrj]

Something I found online that I thought might be helpful when re-installing the pan: snap ups by Fel-Pro. They screw in the corners and hold the pan and help with the alignment. I will buy them to test.

Video tutorial: How to Install an Oil Pan Gasket with SnapUps Installation Aid | Fel-Pro Gaskets

I nearly got those as well before I changed my mind and went with wooden chopsticks. Good luck and good find.