Guide ATF Drain/Fill

Idled for 20 mins nice and hot, shut it off and quickly removed air box to access screw, took reading.

I’m in the middle of trying to remove a stuck pan that seems to be welded on with silicone, tried everything over the last hour, rubber mallet, hitting edges with soft wood and hammer, tried slipping thin scraper tool between seal to get it started and nothing will get in there to break the bond… thinking of going to heat with propane torch but that seems extreme. I don’t know what else to try.

As TheBlooms stated, the engine HAS to be running when checking the trans fluid, just as in EVERY other car out there in the world.

Plus the engine shouldn't be hot, but warm. The consensus on this forum is that running the engine just up to the point of the COLD dash indicator turning off is ~123F and the perfect temp to check the trans fluid.
 
As TheBlooms stated, the engine HAS to be running when checking the trans fluid, just as in EVERY other car out there in the world.

On a Honda, you check it with the engine off. Blew my mind when I read that in my owners manual! But they are definitely an outlier. I know of no other make that has that requirement.
 
On a Honda, you check it with the engine off. Blew my mind when I read that in my owners manual! But they are definitely an outlier. I know of no other make that has that requirement.

Really? That's a first for me then. My bad, I thought they were all the same. I've never owned a Honda.
 
Really? That's a first for me then. My bad, I thought they were all the same. I've never owned a Honda.
My old gas ‘19 RAV4 was odd like that too. I think I was supposed to warm the fluid up and then check the level after turning the engine off. It didn’t have a dipstick though. It had this weird straw sticking up into the transmission as part of the drain plug. fluid above the straw was too high a level and pours out of the drain plug.

My newer hybrid ‘21 RAV4 is so much simpler. Literately drain and fill it like a differential. When fluid starts dropping out of the fill hole with the car level, you’re at the right ATF level.
 
Idled for 20 mins nice and hot, shut it off and quickly removed air box to access screw, took reading.

I’m in the middle of trying to remove a stuck pan that seems to be welded on with silicone, tried everything over the last hour, rubber mallet, hitting edges with soft wood and hammer, tried slipping thin scraper tool between seal to get it started and nothing will get in there to break the bond… thinking of going to heat with propane torch but that seems extreme. I don’t know what else to try.
Oh you need to measure while its still on, not off. I kinda just moved my air box a different direction so it wasn't covering the area where the dipstick was, reattached it to the tube and turned the car back on. Alternatively, you can access the dipstick from underneath the car.
 
YES, car has to be running, top of air box should be connected, trans temp should be at 122 degrees. Any colder then level will be low, any hotter lever will be higher. Says 122 degrees right on the stick.
 
You can leave the bottom of the air box off while the engine is running. Makes it FAR easier to check the fluid level.
 
If the engine isn't idling, you won't get an accurate reading. The transmission pump has to be running.

As far as removing the pan, the factory RTV can absolutely be tough. When I removed mine for the first time, I used a 2" paint scraper to break the bond. I started at one corner, then worked my way around. Once you break about 6", the rest will come off.

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Well I did manage to free it after some more persuasive arguments with a piece of metal curved and sharpened and lightly tapping it in between the seal going half way around at all access points, eventually enough of the bond broke free I could get my fingers in there and pull down prying the rest away, what a messy frustrating job that was, but it’s done and turned out good! 4.75L came out replaced that and drove it a hundred KM today on my commute, shift is improved but seems to still want to hold on to second gear a second too long when downshifting to first in stop and go traffic, maybe it need to be reflashed?

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Well I did manage to free it after some more persuasive arguments with a piece of metal curved and sharpened and lightly tapping it in between the seal going half way around at all access points, eventually enough of the bond broke free I could get my fingers in there and pull down prying the rest away, what a messy frustrating job that was, but it’s done and turned out good! 4.75L came out replaced that and drove it a hundred KM today on my commute, shift is improved but seems to still want to hold on to second gear a second too long when downshifting to first in stop and go traffic, maybe it need to be reflashed?
I'm also curious to know if the PCM needs the be reprogrammed after such service
 
As TheBlooms stated, the engine HAS to be running when checking the trans fluid, just as in EVERY other car out there in the world.

Plus the engine shouldn't be hot, but warm. The consensus on this forum is that running the engine just up to the point of the COLD dash indicator turning off is ~123F and the perfect temp to check the trans fluid.
During a cold start (10+ hours), there's always going to be a fairly large difference between engine coolant temp (ECT) and transmission fluid temp (TFT). My second gen CX-5 shuts the blue dash light off when the ECT value goes over 122ºF. However, the TFT value at that same time is typically only around 80ºF, with some variation depending on ambient temp and amount of down time. And it takes quite a bit of additional time (10 minutes or so), before TFT reaches the target ATF check temp of 122ºF.

I don't know how much different the first gen CX-5 is with blue light shutoff and ECT/TFT difference, so I can't comment on what you wrote above. There's a completely different coolant thermostatic system in use on the second gen, so the two gens could differ by quite a bit, relative to ECT/TFT temps.

But I can say for certain that, for second gen CX-5 vehicles, the blue light shutting off definitely should not be used as the ATF level check time. Anyone who wants to do this job properly should be using a live data scan tool (Forscan, ...) which supports the Mazda TFT parameter (which many live data tools do not). Using the blue light shutting off instead would always result in the dipstick showing an ATF level lower than it actually is - possibly quite a bit lower.
 
During a cold start (10+ hours), there's always going to be a fairly large difference between engine coolant temp (ECT) and transmission fluid temp (TFT). My second gen CX-5 shuts the blue dash light off when the ECT value goes over 122ºF. However, the TFT value at that same time is typically only around 80ºF, with some variation depending on ambient temp and amount of down time. And it takes quite a bit of additional time (10 minutes or so), before TFT reaches the target ATF check temp of 122ºF.

I don't know how much different the first gen CX-5 is with blue light shutoff and ECT/TFT difference, so I can't comment on what you wrote above. There's a completely different coolant thermostatic system in use on the second gen, so the two gens could differ by quite a bit, relative to ECT/TFT temps.

But I can say for certain that, for second gen CX-5 vehicles, the blue light shutting off definitely should not be used as the ATF level check time. Anyone who wants to do this job properly should be using a live data scan tool (Forscan, ...) which supports the Mazda TFT parameter (which many live data tools do not). Using the blue light shutting off instead would always result in the dipstick showing an ATF level lower than it actually is - possibly quite a bit lower.
In the absence of a scan tool I plan on using my IR thermometer. The pan is black which should provide a good reading with IR emissivity setting to the usual 0.95. Adding 10*F should give a close fluid temperature. I saw this method being used somewhere and think it has merit. I can't see a few degrees making much difference since there is a range on the dipstick and besides, this ain't the Space Shuttle and the fluid can't have a huge coefficient of thermal expansion. Also, look at the different quantities drained (factory fill) on members cars when they did the first service. Some had 3-1/2 qts or 3.75, I had 3-3/8, and none of the transmissions had failed after running thousands of miles on those initial fill quantities. Not trying to upset the apple cart but offering a different viewpoint.
Edited to add: just remembered, my digital multimeter came with a thermocouple. I could put that down the dipstick hole to get a reading and based on that decide to let it cool or run a while longer. Ain't technology great?
 
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In the absence of a scan tool I plan on using my IR thermometer. ....
.....
my digital multimeter came with a thermocouple. I could put that down the dipstick hole to get a reading and based on that decide to let it cool or run a while longer. ...
Perhaps do both and see how much they differ? The ATF temp sensor is located inside of the transaxle valve body, so it's just a guess as to how close those three temps would be at the 122ºF target checking point.

Just an FYI that, if you have a Windows laptop, you can get the Forscan live data tool up and running on it for as little as $20. Forscan currently offers a free download of their software for Windows, and you can buy an inexpensive OBD adapter to read TFT (and a whole lot more as well). The Forscan doc states that they no longer support the lower-priced adapters, however they still work just fine for the simple stuff. This is a very easy and inexpensive way to get TFT the way the manual says to do it. But as always, your vehicle your choice.
 
Perhaps do both and see how much they differ? The ATF temp sensor is located inside of the transaxle valve body, so it's just a guess as to how close those three temps would be at the 122ºF target checking point.

Just an FYI that, if you have a Windows laptop, you can get the Forscan live data tool up and running on it for as little as $20. Forscan currently offers a free download of their software for Windows, and you can buy an inexpensive OBD adapter to read TFT (and a whole lot more as well). The Forscan doc states that they no longer support the lower-priced adapters, however they still work just fine for the simple stuff. This is a very easy and inexpensive way to get TFT the way the manual says to do it. But as always, your vehicle your choice.
Thanks for the info regarding an economical alternative using Forscan. All of the other info available besides TFT makes that a no -brainer purchase. My Foxwell NT301 OBD2 scanner is limited in what data it can access beyond the usual trouble codes and some live data.
 
Thanks for the info regarding an economical alternative using Forscan. All of the other info available besides TFT makes that a no -brainer purchase. My Foxwell NT301 OBD2 scanner is limited in what data it can access beyond the usual trouble codes and some live data.
I'm frankly amazed that they're giving away such advanced functionality, and suspect that will end someday soon. So IMO it would be a good idea to copy the downloaded installation file to whatever storage media you like to use. I have a couple of copies of that file squirrelled away, just in case.
 
On a Honda, you check it with the engine off. Blew my mind when I read that in my owners manual! But they are definitely an outlier. I know of no other make that has that requirement.
Yes, my 1998 Honda CR-V and friend’s 2002 Honda Odyssey all just require the engine in “operating” temperature, and with engine stopped pull a dipstick checking the ATF level. So much easier and no OBDII reader for specific ATF temperature required.
 
My old gas ‘19 RAV4 was odd like that too. I think I was supposed to warm the fluid up and then check the level after turning the engine off. It didn’t have a dipstick though. It had this weird straw sticking up into the transmission as part of the drain plug. fluid above the straw was too high a level and pours out of the drain plug.

My newer hybrid ‘21 RAV4 is so much simpler. Literately drain and fill it like a differential. When fluid starts dropping out of the fill hole with the car level, you’re at the right ATF level.
I believe your old 2019 gas RAV4 has traditional 8-speed step transmission, but the 2021 hybrid RAV4 has a CVT, hence the difference. Either way, both are easier to do on ATF drain-and-fill than Mazda’s.
 
So as it is up at the F of 122F then it’s overfilled from factory for the last 100,000 miles huh. 🤦‍♂️
No, your ATF temperature was definitely higher than 122°F, and the ATF level will be much higher when the engine isn’t running.

Most checked have found the ATF is a bit too low from factory. That’s why people shouldn’t use the ATF amount drained as the reference to fill the same amount of fresh ATF back into the transmission. They’d under-fill the transmission again.
 
Did my trans fluid and filter on my 2017 CX5 today. Getting that pan off with the factory RTV was a pain. Had to break the seal and then pry it down. The RTV acts like a glue. Then cleaning the pan was another pain. I wish Mazda would just use a reusable gasket with a steel core and outside compressible rubber like on many other cars. The filter came with a cheapo rubber gasket and I don't trust those gaskets.

The trans fluid never stopped dripping, even after hours of waiting. So I cleaned the pan really well and the trans mating surface and then put the Mazda grey RTV on the pan and put it on the trans. Tightened it up and will wait until tomorrow to pour the fluid in to let the RTV set up.

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At 53k miles, I have done TWO fluid only changes, this is the first filter change. The trans pan magnet had a decent amount of clutch material on it. Nothing bad but definitely needed to be cleaned. I can't see how people wait until 75k-100k miles to do a fluid/filter change. It's damaging the transmission if you wait that long. The "lifelong fluid" is a marketing joke. Maybe lifelong means 100k miles and the trans fails and you have to buy a new trans.

Hopefully the trans pan doesn't leak. Will find out tomorrow. Measured 4.3 - 4.5 qts of trans fluid that came out.
 
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I'm just gonna pick up a new pan when I do a fluid change with the filter next time. Previously just fluid only the last two times.

I think one would have to let it sit about a day before you no longer saw any drips.
 
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