What have you done to your CX-5 today?

Ha, most gen-1 CX-5 owners, including me, regretted doing the liftgate struts recall as the replacements are weaker and shorter. Some started having noise very soon, and the liftgate opening height becomes lower and easier to bump to the head. At least one member had to replace the replacement struts again with his own expense.

There’re 4 recalls (one is Special Service Program for passenger side airbag re-programming; the other one is only for those with optional LED headlights) for 2016 CX-5, which one is the other recall you just had done in addition to loftgate struts recall?

I’d say the previous owner of your 2016 CX-5 was very smart holding on to original liftgate struts for as long as he could.
Wow buzz kill on the struts lol, I guess time will tell if they hold up, for now the tailgate lifts easier and Im only 5 foot 7 so I wont be hitting my head unless they fail. As far as the other recalls I got all 4. the struts, fuel filler pipe update, airbag reflash and the DRL issue. None seemed crazy urgent to do I believe but I would imagine the headlights on my GT wouldn’t be cheap to replace if they failed because of the defect. If the manufacturer issues a recall get it done I say, its not like it costs you anything but a few hours without your ride.
 
For what its worth the part number for the replacement struts on the invoice was KDY8-76-61X Kit,Stay Dampers, Looked up the cost on the site that Necroposts part numbers linked to and they came up at 46.08, a few bucks more than 1 side of the ones he ordered…..”cheap“ is what the recall replacements are lol.
 
Wow buzz kill on the struts lol, I guess time will tell if they hold up, for now the tailgate lifts easier and Im only 5 foot 7 so I wont be hitting my head unless they fail. As far as the other recalls I got all 4. the struts, fuel filler pipe update, airbag reflash and the DRL issue.
Now you have all 4 recalls done.


None seemed crazy urgent to do I believe but I would imagine the headlights on my GT wouldn’t be cheap to replace if they failed because of the defect.
So your LED DRLs were still working and you had them replaced? Yes these LED headlights aren’t cheap. Before Mazda issued the recall last year, people were paying $1,200 each parts only if they’re out of new car warranty! Mine were failed within 3 years, and both got replaced under warranty.


If the manufacturer issues a recall get it done I say, its not like it costs you anything but a few hours without your ride.
I have second thought on recalls now as the replacement may be even worse. Since there’s no time limit on recalls, I’d wait until the parts involved actually failed, then go get the recall done for free replacement.
 
For what its worth the part number for the replacement struts on the invoice was KDY8-76-61X Kit,Stay Dampers, Looked up the cost on the site that Necroposts part numbers linked to and they came up at 46.08, a few bucks more than 1 side of the ones he ordered…..”cheap“ is what the recall replacements are lol.
Interesting. So struts used for recall are different from struts on Mazda’s parts list? You have one part number KDY8-76-61X for both side from the recall, but Kedis82ZE8 got struts with 2 different part numbers, KD77-62-620A (Right) and KD77-63-620A (Left)?
 
Now you have all 4 recalls done.



So your LED DRLs were still working and you had them replaced? Yes these LED headlights aren’t cheap. Before Mazda issued the recall last year, people were paying $1,200 each parts only if they’re out of new car warranty! Mine were failed within 3 years, and both got replaced under warranty.



I have second thought on recalls now as the replacement may be even worse. Since there’s no time limit on recalls, I’d wait until the parts involved actually failed, then go get the recall done for free replacement.
I agree with you on the strut recall after seeing what others have posted. But whats done is done. As far as the headlights they did not replace them, just installed an updated seal. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2020/RCMN-20V063-6575.pdf
 
I agree with you on the strut recall after seeing what others have posted. But whats done is done. As far as the headlights they did not replace them, just installed an updated seal. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2020/RCMN-20V063-6575.pdf
Now I finally realized why we feel the replacement struts by the recall are inferior, because they only cost a half of the regular struts, Thanks for the info.

Yes, since your LED DRLs are still working, you get only revised seals, not the entire LED headlights.
 
And my wait until the part fails strategy on recalls works even better on this LED DRL recall. You drive until the LED DRLs fails, then go get entire updated LED headlights for free by the recall.
 
Hit 150,000 a few days ago on my 17 CX-5 Sport. Had my Rear Differential replaced a month ago, otherwise it's running like new.
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20211208_032244772.webp
    PXL_20211208_032244772.webp
    38.5 KB · Views: 181
Tire rotation and brake inspection. 41.5k miles on the 2.2 diesel (USA) and pad thickness is Front 10mm and Rear 7mm and even wear between inner/outer and left/right side.

20211211_152038.webp


Everything is free moving and little corrosion. Rotors look and feel great. I see no reason this won't make 100k + before brake service is needed.
 
Yep, the detergents used in carwashes are very caustic and will remove your wax very quickly.

What I do in the winter months, when I have to use the carwash to remove the salt, is only use the manual bay at the carwash and only use the rinse mode with plain water. It may not get all the road grime off, but it does remove the salt. The trick is to do it on a day that the temps are above freezing, and the roads are clear. No point in getting the salt off only to reapply on your drive home from the carwash. You'll also want to get your brakes warmed up a bit before parking the car. It's good to get the brakes heated up enough to evaporate the water coating them.

YMMV
2nd this above...

Also go to the manual bays while raining...
Have a third-full(to half full) bucket of mother's carnuba wash and wax (or your soap)...use a microfiber telescoping hand wand to do a quick wash, especially get the rockers, and then start the rinse off in the bay. Don't spray the undercarriage if you have fluid film. Otherwise spray the whole underside and wheel wells.
 
2nd this above...

Also go to the manual bays while raining...
Have a third-full(to half full) bucket of mother's carnuba wash and wax (or your soap)...use a microfiber telescoping hand wand to do a quick wash, especially get the rockers, and then start the rinse off in the bay. Don't spray the undercarriage if you have fluid film. Otherwise spray the whole underside and wheel wells.

"Also go to the manual bays while raining..."

Wash your car in the manual bay while it's raining? What happens on the drive home?

"Don't spray the undercarriage if you have fluid film."

I assume that since you 2nded my advice that you're talking about spraying the car with water only? If that's the case, why advise not to spray the undercarriage if you have fluid film? Do you think that the water will wash the film off? What happens to the film when you drive in the rain?
 
"Also go to the manual bays while raining..."

Wash your car in the manual bay while it's raining? What happens on the drive home?

"Don't spray the undercarriage if you have fluid film."

I assume that since you 2nded my advice that you're talking about spraying the car with water only? If that's the case, why advise not to spray the undercarriage if you have fluid film? Do you think that the water will wash the film off? What happens to the film when you drive in the rain?
Yes...the automatic car washes do use high pressure jets to spray the undercarriage and it will indeed wash the fluid film off. The same with the self serve bays hand wands which are basically variable controlled power washers. It's possible the spot free rinse might not wash off the fluid film but then is it really getting the salt off?

Rain water splashing up on the undercarriage may remove some fluid film at a lesser reduced timeframe over many, many many miles but most of it should stay intact during the majority of the winter season thus keeping the salt brine from further rusting your vehicle... that's why it should be re-applied every season or two.

For someone who wants to wash their underbody during winter, they probably shouldn't waste their $$ on fluid film. IMO, fluid-film it and wait til spring to wash the underbody or don't fluid film.

Their might be videos on you-tube that explain do's and don'ts.

On a side note, you have to wonder, as we turn into a more green friendly nation/world, car washes are starting to recycle water, would you not be spraying recycled salt water onto your car???

Maybe we should just hose rinse/wash our cars at home like the old days.
 
Last edited:
Tire rotation and brake inspection. 41.5k miles on the 2.2 diesel (USA) and pad thickness is Front 10mm and Rear 7mm and even wear between inner/outer and left/right side.

View attachment 305458

Everything is free moving and little corrosion. Rotors look and feel great. I see no reason this won't make 100k + before brake service is neede
So based on this TSB, there’re two different liftgate struts for gen-1 CX-5, KD55 and KD77, and they’re not compatible?

And not sure where the KDY8-76-61X strut set are coming from for Westy16’s recall?

View attachment 305406
View attachment 305407
Just a quick follow up on this, did a search on the part number of the strut they used on my recall and found this https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2016/RMISC-16V644-4585.pdf
see page 14 it shows the part number used on mine in red type, hoping Mazda changed vendor they were getting the struts from or had the part updated since the recalled ones were failing.will post if my updated ones fail in the future (hope not).
 
Yes...the automatic car washes do use high pressure jets to spray the undercarriage and it will indeed wash the fluid film off. The same with the self serve bays hand wands which are basically variable controlled power washers. It's possible the spot free rinse might not wash off the fluid film but then is it really getting the salt off?

Rain water splashing up on the undercarriage may remove some fluid film at a lesser reduced timeframe over many, many many miles but most of it should stay intact during the majority of the winter season thus keeping the salt brine from further rusting your vehicle... that's why it should be re-applied every season or two.

For someone who wants to wash their underbody during winter, they probably shouldn't waste their $$ on fluid film. IMO, fluid-film it and wait til spring to wash the underbody or don't fluid film.

Their might be videos on you-tube that explain do's and don'ts.

On a side note, you have to wonder, as we turn into a more green friendly nation/world, car washes are starting to recycle water, would you not be spraying recycled salt water onto your car???

Maybe we should just hose rinse/wash our cars at home like the old days.

"Maybe we should just hose rinse/wash our cars at home like the old days."

I would love to! It's difficult to do when your garden hose is frozen solid though.
 
"Maybe we should just hose rinse/wash our cars at home like the old days."

I would love to! It's difficult to do when your garden hose is frozen solid though.
LOL. True. Have done it before though. Garden hose connected to the laundry tub in basement so could get warm water outside..fed it through the glass block window vents when needed. PITA though
 
LOL. True. Have done it before though. Garden hose connected to the laundry tub in basement so could get warm water outside..fed it through the glass block window vents when needed. PITA though

Gotta do what you gotta do, right?

I'd have to bring the frozen hose in from the garage to let it thaw somewhere in the house first.
 
Back