Spark Plugs

CoolWhip

Member
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2008 Mazdspeed 3 Sport
Anything special I should know before switching them out with the denso iridium spark plugs I just got in the mail :D

I did a search and couldn't find anything really helpful. I did find something on other forums but I figured I would consult here first!

Never really changed spark plugs before (smash)


Umm
Make sure they are gapped correctly ...
Grease them down?
Once they are out make sure no dirt etc gets in there ...

Yeah ... I'm clueless ...
 
this is just me. before you take out the old ones...give it a good shot of air to remove dust and crap.

don't know about the grease? never used any.
 
Check around but I heard antiseize on threads not grease and is the gap .028. How much $ for the Denso as i need to replace again?
 
dont use the pulstar plus there was a tread i started almost a year ago we came to see that the plugs only gave us 1 extra hp. the price for the plugs vs the power gain dont add up. do as u will i wont tuch them
 
The pulstar plugs don't run properly on the ms3 from what I have heard. I would stay away from them.
 
i use nology silver plugs on my 1.6, there is an improvement over stock, but i cant say how much, iridium is good, but its main strength is that it will outlast most plugs, silver on the other hand is the best electrical conductor of all metals, better than iridium as well, and its lifespan, according to nology is 3x that of oem plugs.
 
good info on the pulstars... not as concerned about power gains from plugs than better economy.
 
i use nology silver plugs on my 1.6, there is an improvement over stock, but i cant say how much, iridium is good, but its main strength is that it will outlast most plugs, silver on the other hand is the best electrical conductor of all metals, better than iridium as well, and its lifespan, according to nology is 3x that of oem plugs.

ARGH (bang)

Too late oh well, I'll have the heads up next time lol
 
$ 43.96

I checked them out and they are gapped at .028
Thanks for your help CW, I ran the colder ngk iridiums, then switched back to stock with a tighter gap. I think I will see if I can tighten up the colder ones without breaking the electrode post. Although my computer lies it is reading 28.9 avg. the oil change back to synthetic made a nice gain in mpg if that is a goal of yours.
 
Thanks for your help CW, I ran the colder ngk iridiums, then switched back to stock with a tighter gap. I think I will see if I can tighten up the colder ones without breaking the electrode post. Although my computer lies it is reading 28.9 avg. the oil change back to synthetic made a nice gain in mpg if that is a goal of yours.

I'm looking more towards performance gains.

I'm going to switch to synthetic @ 9k miles (pow)

Maybe I'll notice a difference.
 
Generally you don't want to go with anything other than copper in boosted applications. Irridium and whatnot is fine for the NA folks, but can cause hotspots in the combustion chamber. In boosted applications, that can mean detonation. Detonation can mean bent rods and blown blocks.

Just stuff that's been circling round the MSP community for years.
 
Generally you don't want to go with anything other than copper in boosted applications. Irridium and whatnot is fine for the NA folks, but can cause hotspots in the combustion chamber. In boosted applications, that can mean detonation. Detonation can mean bent rods and blown blocks.

Just stuff that's been circling round the MSP community for years.

So Xnay on the Iridiumay?

I know some people have the IVt22 and I was recommened by them to go ahead with the purchase.
 
Generally you don't want to go with anything other than copper in boosted applications. Iridium and whatnot is fine for the NA folks, but can cause hotspots in the combustion chamber. In boosted applications, that can mean detonation. Detonation can mean bent rods and blown blocks.

Just stuff that's been circling round the MSP community for years.
That is so nice to hear that from someone besides my tuning guru kid. He said to me after I installed, of course, that he dynoed a car while switching plugs and gaps for the science of it. He said the iridium gained abit for a couple of runs then went away quickly. I am sure there are more factors. But he also said boost likes copper plugs for heat transfer something something. Maybe I should apologize for doubting?
 
Ahhh I'm also confused now.

I'm not sure if I should go ahead with the iridium or just find some copper ones ...
 
The MS3 blocks are a little more robust than our damned FS engines on the MSP, so if you want to go irridium, go for it.

I baby the s*** out of mine and try to take as few chances as possible, so I stick to the copper. Recently changed out what I think were OEM irridium plugs after I bought it used, and the car was at 90k miles. Obviously it hadn't blown up yet.
 
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