Regarding synthetic Oil change

Your engine will break in normally with synthetic. And...

This is a common misconception. Synthetic oils will not harm your engine during break in. They are designed to work in your engine and as long as you use the right weight of oil you will be fine(if they did harm the engine do you tihnk BMW would ship their cars with syntetic?). This was something that they pounded into our heads at school when I was in there to become a mechanic.

I have a friend racer/mechanic on Corvettes and GM ships those with Mobil 1 too. However they did change their cylinder honing to do so, or at least that's what he reports. And he would know .. He's an insider with the GM factory crowd ..
 
For Amsoil I thought 0w-30 was the way to go. That is their premier oil and it can be used in any car that normally uses 5w-30 and offers advantages for better cold starts.
 
Your engine will break in normally with synthetic. And...

This is a common misconception. Synthetic oils will not harm your engine during break in. They are designed to work in your engine and as long as you use the right weight of oil you will be fine(if they did harm the engine do you tihnk BMW would ship their cars with syntetic?). This was something that they pounded into our heads at school when I was in there to become a mechanic.

I'm probably wrong but I thought in general Bmw motors come pre run. Mazda salesman also porsche audi, tried to tell me same thing. I'm old school, break in is important to me. Depending on tolerances at ring, gaps might need less ( cushion ) as they tend to hone cylinder wall and once they have mated the two, synthetic is the way to go for long term high stress motors. I'd be happy to be reeducated by you youngsters!
 
I have read a # of articles on Motor Oil looking for information on which are the best, and what additives make it so. I do have one PDF file where 18 different synthetic engine oils were tested in a rig where a bearing was loaded to the point of failure. The Royal Purple was the best performer of these oils that is available in stores where I live. (If you would like a copy of the file email me at pruzink@charter.net). I switched to Royal Purple in my gas engine cars a few years ago and have been pleased with the results.

I think I've seen that test too and though it has some good information, the test doesn't represent real world conditions. Most importantly, the test was done with the oil at ambient temperature (like 72 degrees F) where we all know that motor operating temperature is way above that.


here is a link to the test I'm referring to:
http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil Tests.pdf


And finally here is the Post Scipt to that article originally from here:
http://www.streetcommodores.com.au/news.php

OILS AIN'T OILS The post script

If there's one thing we try and do here at Street Commodores, it's give you, our readers un-biased info on which products are good, and which ones suck. There's so much BS marketing guff out there, that it can be tough to nut out which products can walk the walk so that's where we come in, doing our best to sort the Holdens from the Lada Nivas.

A few months back (issue 108), you might remember we did an oil comparison. At the time, we thought it was a bloody good thing, and we don't mind telling you we were pretty proud to publish an article that basically bagged a heap of big name brands. You see, at Street Commodores, we can't, and won't be bought. We like to play things straight. And in the name of playing things straight, we'd like to tell you what has happened since that story went to print.

Basically, we made a few oil companies very cross, and some others quite happy; but we've also been educated some more on engine oils, and being the type of publication that we are, we wanted to fill you in on it. The information we've learned since then suggests the test we performed may be irrelevant. Some sources have advised us that the test we used would have been better served testing some of our favourite greases rather than the engine oils we commonly use on our street cars. Sure, we did the test with the best intentions, with a level playing field for each oil and no preconceptions as to who would perform better than another, but when, and if, we mess up, we like to think that we're man enough to set the record straight.

So keep an eye out in an upcoming issue real soon for an in-depth look at what makes up the contents of your oil, what to look for when choosing one, why certain ingredients are so important and whether the test we used was irrelevant for testing oils.
 
I'm probably wrong but I thought in general Bmw motors come pre run. Mazda salesman also porsche audi, tried to tell me same thing. I'm old school, break in is important to me. Depending on tolerances at ring, gaps might need less ( cushion ) as they tend to hone cylinder wall and once they have mated the two, synthetic is the way to go for long term high stress motors. I'd be happy to be reeducated by you youngsters!

tolerances will be worn no matter the kind of oil. Synthetic oil will allow break in just as well.
 
I dynoed my car stock after putting in Amsiol full synthetic and I gained a whopping 35hp and 45ft tq. Go with AMSOIL!!!











j/k... It's good stuff though!
 
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Did you do the preferred member thing MS3077?

No, I didn't do the preferred member thing, whatever that is. Probably would've saved me a little money huh?

My dealership had Amsiol in their parts dept so I told them to put it in my car when I went for my oil change. My clutch was actually a bit easier to modulate and my gears were easier and smoother to change. The tech noticed the improvement as well. Granted I still have the occasional 3rd gear grind with shifting at WOT but I don't think any kind of transmission lube will remedy this problem. Hopefully a short shifter with better brushings will…
 

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