Yes a 2023 CX-5 Oil Change Thread

[i12drivemyMP5]

yeah mine was on but not started. the key was having service interval showing in gauge pod. that allowed me to access the vehicle status menu in information on infotainment screen. we have very different gauge pods. nothing in our "A" config pod is visble when car is off. all digital and no static markings with lots of config options for view.

 

[Koko_Bandit]

Just a side question regarding diy oil changes. How many use an oil extractor when changing their oil? I have used one for years but not on a Mazda. Just curious if it is difficult to get the tube to the bottom. The dipstick feels like it is a straight shot.

 

[stickerbush]

Just a side question regarding diy oil changes. How many use an oil extractor when changing their oil? I have used one for years but not on a Mazda. Just curious if it is difficult to get the tube to the bottom. The dipstick feels like it is a straight shot.

I have used a small pump I got from Blackstone to extract oil for analysis. I found it a bit challenging to get the tube through the dipstick to the bottom. It bound up a couple of times and I had to pull back a bit and then continue inserting it. It worked though I couldn't help but have some concern around the plastic tube getting stuck in the dipstick tube.

 

[N7turbo]

Just a side question regarding diy oil changes. How many use an oil extractor when changing their oil? I have used one for years but not on a Mazda. Just curious if it is difficult to get the tube to the bottom. The dipstick feels like it is a straight shot.

I considered it, but instead just did it the old fashioned way—but then I installed a Fumoto valve before I was done to make the next one easier. I figured, even with an extractor, you'll still have to go down there and pull the panel off to change the oil filter.

The extractor makes sense for the Mercedes techs who also have the filter up top. The main downside to it? If the engine is older and hasn't been maintained as well, it won't get all the solids at the bottom of the pan, if there are any.

Also, 1st post!

 

[N7turbo]

So where did you get Tokyo Roki PE01-14-302B oil filter installed at factory for the 2.5L NA? You can only get OEM Thai made Denso 1WPE-14-302 and Mexican made “Value Product” PE01-14-302A-MV at Mazda dealers in the US. And yes, Mazda dealers will use MV filter for your oil change unless you specifically ask for a Thai filter.


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Also my experience. Ask at the parts counter for a filter and you'll get the value model. Ask specifically for this one for the turbo: 1WPY 14 302

The car will come with the Tokyo Roki filter from the factory but they don't sell it here. No big deal.

 

[PTguy]

Way back there was a question about which brand of oil to use, and the answer is simple. It does not matter. Any top brand is equally excellent. Top conventional oil is very good. Synthetic oil is better at very cold temperatures as it thickens less in the cold, at very high temperatures because it thins less in the heat, and it oxidizes more slowly for longer oil life. I use syn in all my turbocharged cars (2 so far). Keep in mind that turbocharged diesels in trucks, ships, rail engines, etc., use conventional oil and have great results--the last ship's diesel engine I worked on had four 4' diameter turbochargers with 30 wt conventional oil in their own sumps, an no oil lubricated problems. Do use the quality and viscosity engine oil recommended in the owner's manual. Low viscosity oils such as 5W-20 and 0W-20 create less internal friction inside the engine for a sliver less drag and a bit better gas mileage, as well as being more suitable in frigid temperatures. The current top oil categories are ILSAC GF-6A and API Service Category SP. Those are upgraded every few years, and always buy the most current. They will be fully compatible with the older categories listed in older owner's manuals.

For filters, it's different. There is no industry standard for oil filters like there is for, say, GF-6A/SP 5W-30 engine oil. Each engine maker's oil filter is a secret. Aftermarket oil filter companies may reverse engineer the engine maker's filter and make one that matches or just pick one out of their catalog that seems to be close enough. During the warranty period I suggest sticking with the engine maker's filters. After the warranty any top brand of filter is likely just fine.

I do not know if there is any functional difference in the Mazda filters from different makers in different countries. I do know that during the engine warranty period any suitable Mazda filter fully satisfies the warranty requirements. I know of one Thai filter maker, HiFloFiltro, that makes very high quality filters, and I have good experiences with their motorcycle line. They also make the K&N motorcycle oil filters.

 

[N7turbo]

Way back there was a question about which brand of oil to use, and the answer is simple. It does not matter. Any top brand is equally excellent. Top conventional oil is very good. Synthetic oil is better at very cold temperatures as it thickens less in the cold, at very high temperatures because it thins less in the heat, and it oxidizes more slowly for longer oil life. I use syn in all my turbocharged cars (2 so far). Keep in mind that turbocharged diesels in trucks, ships, rail engines, etc., use conventional oil and have great results--the last ship's diesel engine I worked on had four 4' diameter turbochargers with 30 wt conventional oil in their own sumps, an no oil lubricated problems. Do use the quality and viscosity engine oil recommended in the owner's manual. Low viscosity oils such as 5W-20 and 0W-20 create less internal friction inside the engine for a sliver less drag and a bit better gas mileage, as well as being more suitable in frigid temperatures. The current top oil categories are ILSAC GF-6A and API Service Category SP. Those are upgraded every few years, and always buy the most current. They will be fully compatible with the older categories listed in older owner's manuals.

Generally agree, though there are some performance differences if you really care. It probably matters more for the turbo engine because there you care more about flashpoint and heat-related viscosity loss and not all oils are created equal there, even if they all meet the minimum specs for certification.

For filters, it's different. There is no industry standard for oil filters like there is for, say, GF-6A/SP 5W-30 engine oil. Each engine maker's oil filter is a secret. Aftermarket oil filter companies may reverse engineer the engine maker's filter and make one that matches or just pick one out of their catalog that seems to be close enough. During the warranty period I suggest sticking with the engine maker's filters. After the warranty any top brand of filter is likely just fine.

I do not know if there is any functional difference in the Mazda filters from different makers in different countries. I do know that during the engine warranty period any suitable Mazda filter fully satisfies the warranty requirements.

I read that the turbo filter IS different than the non-turbo filter, specifically in its bypass operation, but I don't know too much about specifics. If someone could tell me how much oil pressure we're supposed to be seeing on these engines I could possibly use a scanner to verify that I'm in range.

But there are 2 reasons I won't buy 3rd party oil filters for my engine:

1. I do not know if any of these other companies have taken into account the differences in the Mazda engine requirements for the turbo/non-turbo filters
2. Even the best, correct filter from the Mazda parts counter is only $12. If I'm meeting Mazda requirements and changing it every 5K miles, why bother looking elsewhere.

 

[N7turbo]

I wanted to come back and update this thread on what I found out about these filters.

Teardowns

Mazda Oil Filter Cut Open 1WPY-14-302 / 2020 Mazda CX5

Oil filter review.Let's see what this used Mazda oil filter caught, after being in a 2020 Mazda CX-5. Mazda 1WPE-14-302 oil filter: https://www.mazdapartsfac...

youtu.be

Mazda Oil Filter 1WPE-14-302 Oil filter Cut Open, Used Mazda Oil Filter

Roberto's Youtube Channels: https://www.youtube.com/@twinforce_fusion6560 https://www.youtube.com/@impalalfx1349Oil Filter Inspection.Today we'll open up a ...

youtu.be

Mazda oil filters: 1WPE-14-302 vs. 1WPY-14-302

A look at what makes two genuine Mazda oil filters different, even though both numbers supersede to the same number in many aftermarket brands

artsautomotive.com

As you can see, the only difference is when the bypass valve opens. But Mazda did that for a reason, so who am I to argue.

 

[madar]

Way back there was a question about which brand of oil to use, and the answer is simple. It does not matter. Any top brand is equally excellent. Top conventional oil is very good. Synthetic oil is better at very cold temperatures as it thickens less in the cold, at very high temperatures because it thins less in the heat, and it oxidizes more slowly for longer oil life. I use syn in all my turbocharged cars (2 so far). Keep in mind that turbocharged diesels in trucks, ships, rail engines, etc., use conventional oil and have great results--the last ship's diesel engine I worked on had four 4' diameter turbochargers with 30 wt conventional oil in their own sumps, an no oil lubricated problems. Do use the quality and viscosity engine oil recommended in the owner's manual. Low viscosity oils such as 5W-20 and 0W-20 create less internal friction inside the engine for a sliver less drag and a bit better gas mileage, as well as being more suitable in frigid temperatures. The current top oil categories are ILSAC GF-6A and API Service Category SP. Those are upgraded every few years, and always buy the most current. They will be fully compatible with the older categories listed in older owner's manuals.

For filters, it's different. There is no industry standard for oil filters like there is for, say, GF-6A/SP 5W-30 engine oil. Each engine maker's oil filter is a secret. Aftermarket oil filter companies may reverse engineer the engine maker's filter and make one that matches or just pick one out of their catalog that seems to be close enough. During the warranty period I suggest sticking with the engine maker's filters. After the warranty any top brand of filter is likely just fine.

I do not know if there is any functional difference in the Mazda filters from different makers in different countries. I do know that during the engine warranty period any suitable Mazda filter fully satisfies the warranty requirements. I know of one Thai filter maker, HiFloFiltro, that makes very high quality filters, and I have good experiences with their motorcycle line. They also make the K&N motorcycle oil filters.

Somewhat disagree on the oil thing. Depends on your OCI. If you're doing 5k intervals, which is what I do, then no, it won't matter. If you're pushing the limits, say 10k, then you want to be fussier.

 

[AL Cx5]

Seems penny wise and dollar foolish. Looking at the oil doesn't tell much or anything of what's going on.

Is there metal, fuel or dust in the oil? Has the oil broken down? How much dirt or sludge is in the oil filter? It could be reducing oil circulation. Oil breaks down because of the heat in the combustion chamber heats the oil on the cylinder walls.

I have run oil sample tests on my expensive engines and plan to get a base line oil sample test on the CX5, the next oil change. Cost is less than $30 and tells me how my engine is wearing compared to other 2.5l in their data base. Some guys run oil sample tests on their diesels and change oil based on the results. These engines hold 3 gallons of oil, so it's cost effective. I changed some of driving habits based on oil sample tests. My truck has 265K mi and should be good for 500k.

I have cut open many oil filters to looking for yellow metal, bearing material. I'll cut my oil filter on the CX5, next oil change as well, at 12k mi. It's always a sinking feeling to see yellow specs on the filter. This is a race car thing...

The OP could send a sample of oil for testing and decide.

 

[Cooter Boy]

Alrighty then....figured it out......had to put gauge display on next service and then went into information on infotainment and the maintenance settings selection was lit where i could put next service date on automatic and reset service interval and now shows next service in 7500 miles.

None of this worked for me. The last one on the list remains inactive. Can anybody explain this?

Plus: Engine on? Ignition on? Acc on?

 

[Cooter Boy]

None of this worked for me. The last one on the list remains inactive. Can anybody explain this?

Plus: Engine on? Ignition on? Acc on?

Never mind, I got it.

The engine must be running.

 

[yrwei52]

Never mind, I got it.

The engine must be running.

In my case on my 2016 CX-5 I can do the Reset with the ignition on without engine running. See post #60 above.

 

[madar]

So where did you get Tokyo Roki PE01-14-302B oil filter installed at factory for the 2.5L NA? You can only get OEM Thai made Denso 1WPE-14-302 and Mexican made “Value Product” PE01-14-302A-MV at Mazda dealers in the US. And yes, Mazda dealers will use MV filter for your oil change unless you specifically ask for a Thai filter.


View attachment 323872


View attachment 323875

The last time I bought a few Thailand filters was a few years ago, they were around $8 from my dealer. I just picked up a few from my dealer a few days ago....$11 with a 15% off coupon!! Geez!

 

[AL Cx5]

I still dont understand the logic buying an inexpensive part like an oil filter to protect an engine that will cost thousands to replace?

Those cheap filters are rock catchers and can collapse.

I put a Purolator Boss filter on our CX 5, not based on price but quality. NOT all oil filters are the same.

It is one is one of several excellent oil filters.

Purolator Boss Oil Filter

Review

 

[N7turbo]

The Mazda filters are fine.

Post in thread 'Any brake updates for 2022+ CX-5?'

Jun 30, 2024

There isn’t much info on Mazda OEM oil filters. Not sure where did you get the bypass pressure specs on OEM oil filters. But one thing for sure is, if Mazda can use the same oil filter from the 2.5L NA, why bother to spend R&D money to develop a new oil filter, and spend more money to manufacture a different oil filter for the 2.5T?

I don't think the manufacturing costs are much different. Look at this...

• N7turbo

 

[AL Cx5]

The Mazda filters are fine.

Post in thread 'Any brake updates for 2022+ CX-5?'

Jun 30, 2024

There isn’t much info on Mazda OEM oil filters. Not sure where did you get the bypass pressure specs on OEM oil filters. But one thing for sure is, if Mazda can use the same oil filter from the 2.5L NA, why bother to spend R&D money to develop a new oil filter, and spend more money to manufacture a different oil filter for the 2.5T?

I don't think the manufacturing costs are much different. Look at this...

• N7turbo

"FINE" doesn't give me confidence in a filter that doesn't state how well it filters, microns. Fine sounds like a compromise, at best.

Why not state the % filtration at 2 microns? 2 microms is the hardest partial to filter. If it filters 2 microns well the other size material is captured.

I'll spend the extra $7.00 on a know quality filter and do my own oil changer. Save on labor and buy high quality filters. Keeping the lest trained and lowest paid techs hands away from my car as well.

Have a fine day...

 

[ADS-B]

" ...I will see if the dealer will allow me exchange it for the 5-30 -..."

In a civilized world, the dealer should have no say in this particular matter. And if there will be a guy there trying to stop you from choosing between 0W-20 and 5W-30, cut him off as fast as you can!

 

[ruthrj]

"FINE" doesn't give me confidence in a filter that doesn't state how well it filters, microns. Fine sounds like a compromise, at best.

Why not state the % filtration at 2 microns? 2 microms is the hardest partial to filter. If it filters 2 microns well the other size material is captured.

I'll spend the extra $7.00 on a know quality filter and do my own oil changer. Save on labor and buy high quality filters. Keeping the lest trained and lowest paid techs hands away from my car as well.

Have a fine day...

Hate to burst your bubble, but it appears the Purolator Boss has the lowest filtration efficiency in their product line below 46 microns:

BITOG discussion: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/purolator-boss-pbl24651-6-075miles-c-p.378865/page-2

Spec sheet for a Boss filter from that thread (not our model for Mazda tho:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/screenshot_20240207_075700_drive-jpg.202323/

Discussion for the filter you linked: Purolator Efficiency on Upgraded Oil Filters

I’m not too surprised to be honest. 20k mile rating would have to filter less imo. I hate that the advertising on the box and their marketing doesn’t match the test spec sheet. The box says 99% filtration per ISO 4548-12 but conveniently leave off the fact that it’s at 46 microns. The test results you shared show a steep drop off in filtration efficiency below 25-30 microns which jives with the spec sheet screenshot.

In all likelihood these work fine. However, nothing wrong with using the OEM filters too. Denso isn’t a slouch when it comes to quality. I’d prefer shorter intervals that filter more vs longer intervals that filter less.

 

[Jmaz]

I've gotten away from the Fram Ultra synthetic and used the Purolator 'ONE' for my last few oil changes. Think I'll stay with them. It's not full synthetic media but the filtration numbers are good enough for me. The price @ $7.49 at Menard's doesn't hurt either.