What have you done to your MSP today?

After my third time pulling the engine I started putting every bolt back where it came from.

I generally do the same, but my engine was left as a core and the new engine came with a box of hardware that has duplicates of some things, too few of some, and a complete absence of others. It has been a frustrating process. I've made things much worse for myself by not taking the time to clean up after each job I've done lately so the garage is a mess to boot. I need to spend a few hours cleaning, order the essential and difficult to get hardware, and then tackle the rest of the job with a clean shop and all the fasteners.
 
Last edited:
Spent an hour cleaning the bronze MB Weapons after getting a new Michelin A/S 3 installed on Friday. Put them on 1574 with a set of 8mm spacers on the front, I really like the stock wheels but I'm happy with it. The wheels look new with the clean barrels, there were 3 years of grime and a coat of plastidip that had to go.

#1574 has an oil leak from the VC that is getting worse, it must be the silicone dabs on the cam caps because the gasket was replaced a couple months ago when I did the motor.
 
slow and steady

DSC03929s.jpg
DSC03930s.jpg
DSC03931s.jpg
Still waiting on the rest of the parts. (spin)
 

Attachments

  • DSC03932s.jpg
    DSC03932s.jpg
    44.3 KB · Views: 109
hmmmm

DSC03932s.jpg

Took the car to the shop to get it flushed. Turns out one of my ignition coils was snapped in half. Fun.

My primary goal for this car over the next few years is reliability. What should I do to get there? Skip right to a forged engine?
 
Forging the motor is so you can make more power, it doesn't make the car more reliable. These are actually good cars, I have had a protege as a daily for about 6 years now and have only been stranded by a dead battery.
 
View attachment 211997

Took the car to the shop to get it flushed. Turns out one of my ignition coils was snapped in half. Fun.

My primary goal for this car over the next few years is reliability. What should I do to get there? Skip right to a forged engine?


Are you planning or have relocated your maf and put a bov or are you keeping a bpv? I wouldn't recommend a cai with a bpv due to compressor surge.

Honestly when its not modded too badly and you just take care of the problems like the crappy lsd and front/rear engine mounts that car is pretty reliable... I also pushed over 200whp for a couple of years on the stock block with no issues before I decided to build it. Keep the boost at or below 10psi and you should be fine. (I did blow up a built engine but that's another story..)
 
Are you planning or have relocated your maf and put a bov or are you keeping a bpv? I wouldn't recommend a cai with a bpv due to compressor surge.

Honestly when its not modded too badly and you just take care of the problems like the crappy lsd and front/rear engine mounts that car is pretty reliable... I also pushed over 200whp for a couple of years on the stock block with no issues before I decided to build it. Keep the boost at or below 10psi and you should be fine. (I did blow up a built engine but that's another story..)
I got an oil pressure gauge as that's a vary important thing to monitor. When my engine blew I upgraded my oil system to the doc B setup.

Sent from my HTC Desire 626s using Tapatalk
 
I got an oil pressure gauge as that's a vary important thing to monitor. When my engine blew I upgraded my oil system to the doc B setup.

Sent from my HTC Desire 626s using Tapatalk

I have an awr deep sump and never had issues with oil starvation or low pressure. I try not to rev high when hard cornering though.
 
Brakefest is the most important meal of the day!

Forging the motor is so you can make more power, it doesn't make the car more reliable. These are actually good cars, I have had a protege as a daily for about 6 years now and have only been stranded by a dead battery.

Honestly when its not modded too badly and you just take care of the problems like the crappy lsd and front/rear engine mounts that car is pretty reliable... I also pushed over 200whp for a couple of years on the stock block with no issues before I decided to build it. Keep the boost at or below 10psi and you should be fine. (I did blow up a built engine but that's another story..)

Thanks

I wasn't too sure about the quality of the engine after having issues with the intercooler and exhaust manifold. I don't plan on getting rid of this car. I am fine with the car's power when stock, so I'm sure 10psi will be more than enough. What do I need to do to get there?

DSC03933s.jpg
 
Thanks

I wasn't too sure about the quality of the engine after having issues with the intercooler and exhaust manifold. I don't plan on getting rid of this car. I am fine with the car's power when stock, so I'm sure 10psi will be more than enough. What do I need to do to get there?
Intercooler upgrade, SRI (or CAI if you prefer), SS AFC, exhaust upgrade, AWR motor mounts, electronic boost controller. The cheapest and a reasonably safe way to push 10psi
 
Are you planning or have relocated your maf and put a bov or are you keeping a bpv? I wouldn't recommend a cai with a bpv due to compressor surge.

Honestly when its not modded too badly and you just take care of the problems like the crappy lsd and front/rear engine mounts that car is pretty reliable... I also pushed over 200whp for a couple of years on the stock block with no issues before I decided to build it. Keep the boost at or below 10psi and you should be fine. (I did blow up a built engine but that's another story..)

The engine in my dd has over 240k on it. Drinks a little oil when in boost, but just normal driving it is just fine.
 
Thinking my stock turbo seals are getting nfg. Every now and then after a good boost it will puff out smoke when letting off. In the morning it will puff out smoke until I start actually driving it.
The 315km motor didn't let any smoke out pre turbo. So maybe my 140km turbo is just bad. Didn't feel bad in hand. Typical ballbearing play but nothing excessive.
Maybe ill just fish it all out and go na again in p5.
 
A little smoke is normal with an older car and turbo, I know both of my cars smoke some out the exhaust but as long as they boost fine I don't see any reason to replace it.
 
I do this every time. Or baggies. Buckets of bolts never get sorted straight and you always are short of have lots of leftovers.

I started putting everything in baggies and labeling everything. Its a bit more time consuming but in the end its so much better. Nothing worst than trying to fit in a part and have to do dig through a bucket of bolts to find something that fits but probably isn't the same as what is supposed to go there.... trying to take that part out later and having to use 4 different sockets suck :p
 
Hard to say with msp tune. I wonder if it would survive the p5 tune? I need to fork out for a unichip bad.
Car seems to pull best if you slowly open the throttle about 3/4. Just matting it makes a lot of noise but does nothing lol.
Its definitely faster than my wifes es but under 400km/ fillup is way worse than p5 ha.
 
Yeah sounds like the stock MSP tune, you can find SSAFCs for ~$150 or so and tune it in the mean time. Then if you want a unichip you can still sell the AFC for what you paid
 
The irony is I sold afc1when I was rolling the mx3. Never expected to pic up the black p5 let alone the silver one ha.
I don't really wanna spend $200usd on the afc. It ran OK but not really great. There was still random stumbles and bogs and you had to reset the car every few weeks. It honestly ran smoother stock most of the time though less power. Must have been something weird in the transition from negative to positive pressure.
Ill get to it. Lots of other stuff costing me money atm.
 
That is interesting you had random stumbles and bogs with the AFC, I have had one for years and it has never done that. I have an FTC in the other MSP and it also runs great
 
Back