What have you done to your MSP today?

A stock MSP needs an intercooler upgrade, an intake (I prefer a short ram to make more room for the FMIC piping), a Split Second AFC, poly motor mounts, and an exhaust. Other small stuff like an aluminum rad, shifter bushings, springs, etc can come later. BUT don't mod the car until it has had a proper tune-up and everything is running correctly.


great advice there
 
There are tons of them on the forum for ~$40-50, you can delete the VTCS and swap it out. I just don't appreciate street unit overpricing their stuff. I don't really 'recommend' a shift knob, I just have been wanting a new one lol. A stock MSP needs an intercooler upgrade, an intake (I prefer a short ram to make more room for the FMIC piping), a Split Second AFC, poly motor mounts, and an exhaust. Other small stuff like an aluminum rad, shifter bushings, springs, etc can come later. BUT don't mod the car until it has had a proper tune-up and everything is running correctly.

I should have done more research before I purchased it. The Mazda recommended maintenance has all been done. Motor mounts were replaced because the broke. I didn't get any fancy type. I have an intercooler, cold air intake, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, downpipe, midpipe, and EBC brakes and rotors on order. What is the Split Second AFC?
 
The 626 intake mani has a smaller air chamber so even with no "performance" to be gained given the same amounts of everything else then the smaller chamber has a smaller amount of air to move therefore it will move the given air faster therefore it will have a beneficial effect even if it is small and not noticeable also it depends a lot what else has been done to the vehicle plus there is the added bonus of it cleans up the bay and makes more room for other stuff and there is an audible change to the engine too however I do agree with hornsfan that SU is a little over priced.
 
With the 626 mani, there is a pretty noticeable loss in low end torque. I had a ported stock manifold with all the butterflies deleted, and it was a perfect setup for a stock turbo.
I would even prefer that on a big turbo setup, keeps all the lowend until the turbo spools.
I had the 626 mani, low compression pistons and a 61mm turbo, car would bog so hard until it hit boost lol
 
The 626 intake mani has a smaller air chamber so even with no "performance" to be gained given the same amounts of everything else then the smaller chamber has a smaller amount of air to move therefore it will move the given air faster therefore it will have a beneficial effect even if it is small and not noticeable also it depends a lot what else has been done to the vehicle .
Um, what? A smaller chamber will move the air faster? What are you talking about? The 626 mani loses a lot of low end because it's a long runner manifold, it flows about the same up top as the stock mani. This has all been proven a decade ago I don't understand why everyone still runs the 626 mani.
 
My bad I only joined this forum in may '15 so 10 years ago I wasn't on here looking for that I base what I said solely on my own experience with the part.
 
Um, what? A smaller chamber will move the air faster? What are you talking about? The 626 mani loses a lot of low end because it's a long runner manifold, it flows about the same up top as the stock mani. This has all been proven a decade ago I don't understand why everyone still runs the 626 mani.

What's the best manifold?
 
From all the research I have seen and read the best intake manifold to make power with is the 505Zoom custom one.
 
Got a pair of new rear swaybar bushings finally to fix the clunk in 1345, haven't replaced them since 2010 when I very first bought the car. I had a pair of energy suspension bushings and brackets I intended to buy a set of the CR3 relocation brackets for, but I got bored yesterday and bent the ESuspension brackets to fit the MSP subframe so I will just spend the $80 on something else like an ac compressor.
The stock bushing bracket on 1574 was broken when I bought it so I have been needing to fix the rear SB for months now.
 
So the energy suspension brackets DO NOT fit, they are too small even when bent to the same shape as the stock brackets. I suppose I will find another stock bracket and order some stock style bushings...
 
So I did a vary bad thing but it was evil fun.
So I received my MP3 ECU from spicy...thank you spicy. And I had to try it out on my map. Now before you completely scoped me I have to remind you my block is forged coated and the entire rotating assembly including the blancer and clutch are blanced.
So with my waste gate all the way open I installed the MP3 ecu and took it for a spin. Wow mama was it was a blast. Afr held in the 14s 1-3 gear and then I sheepishly put the car away and reconnected the msp ecu. The only time I had that much fun in this car was when my waste gate was bad and I would spike boost to 15psi
 
I don't understand what would compel you to purchase a computer for a N/A car and run it with your MSP?

There is something called a Split Second Air Fuel Controller you can buy that will alter the tune on your car and help with the hestitation.


AFRs in the 14s in boost will detonate like a mofo, even with forged internals.
 
So with my waste gate all the way open I installed the MP3 ecu and took it for a spin. Wow mama was it was a blast. Afr held in the 14s 1-3 gear and then I sheepishly put the car away and reconnected the msp ecu. The only time I had that much fun in this car was when my waste gate was bad and I would spike boost to 15psi

You're lucky you didn't blow the welds on your intake manifold! Now you and the mad scientist gotta replace those piston rings you fried...
 
So far I've fumbled around trying to get the new engine in the car for a total of 8 hours... I can't believe how much hardware is missing. Luckily I have extras of almost everything, but every part I touch I have to go sort through the bucket of bolts. I left all my hardware on the other engine and was expecting that the new engine would have everything, but that's not the case. On the up side, the engine now has accessories, manifolds, and a transmission bolted onto it. I have to source a few bolts I just don't have and then I can finally put the beast in the car.
 
So far I've fumbled around trying to get the new engine in the car for a total of 8 hours... I can't believe how much hardware is missing. Luckily I have extras of almost everything, but every part I touch I have to go sort through the bucket of bolts. I left all my hardware on the other engine and was expecting that the new engine would have everything, but that's not the case. On the up side, the engine now has accessories, manifolds, and a transmission bolted onto it. I have to source a few bolts I just don't have and then I can finally put the beast in the car.
After my third time pulling the engine I started putting every bolt back where it came from.
 
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