What have you done to your CX-5 today?

Hood Damper. So easy and works like a charm to lift that 30 pund hood. It assists the lift effortlessly to about 1 foot then raises itself the rest of the way - even higher than the standard hood prop
IMG_20200730_221815.webp
 
The bolt for the fender goes in that top hole, but with this set you need to find a wat to hold the nut in place after inserting it through that larger middle hole. If you look at Amazon you'll see pics on other sets that include a holding device/net release accessory.

Attach33923_20200619_191936.jpg
Attach33926_20200619_192309.jpg
 
I went the direct Chinese route with these:
aliexpress.com/item/32961456918.html

It took about 3 weeks to arrive and they work as expected.
 
Yeah, don't go with the one I got, that bottom nut was a real B****, the others include a nut/holder that makes it a bunny.
 
Got back my rear spoiler from the paint shop, and installed it. I had the clear coat peeling off.
 
I see the cargo cover so I'm guessing the grocery bag was not in sight?
Yeah it was all covered by the cover. Good thing I bought a cheap one from ebay. Repair came out to $2400 because the rear quarter panel got damaged too and it's connected all the way to the front.
 
New shoes came in. TSW Bathurst 21x9 35 offset. Hankook V12 EVO2 tires 245/35/21. Will be putting them on in a couple weeks just waiting for the hub centric rings to come in from TSW. Will be selling my Rays Gram Lights 57Transcend in the near future.

 
Last edited:
Your brake fluid looks very dark! When was the last time it was flushed and filled?

Don't mean to pick on you but...

Those battery terminals look like they need a bit of attention too.

Brake fluid was replaced a few months ago with Ravenol dot 4 at the same time the belts were replaced, the battery terminals were cleaned and sprayed with a corrosion protector around the same time. so good to go for a while.
 
Brake fluid was replaced a few months ago with Ravenol dot 4 at the same time the belts were replaced, the battery terminals were cleaned and sprayed with a corrosion protector around the same time. so good to go for a while.
So the pictures were taken before all of these maintenance work? Nice!
 
So the pictures were taken before all of these maintenance work? Nice!
The pics were taken after the work was done, unfortunately my phone doesn't really capture the lighting as well as it should, so it's a little deceptive in the pic, always 3 shades darker than what it actually is. Tried to adjust my camera settings to no avail, nice clean amber fluid in there.

Battery terminals look a little dark because of the coating of corrosion protection spray that I used.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

When this battery finally dies, it will be replaced with an AGM one like I have in my Volvo, so no worries about acid leaks or corroded terminals.
 
The pics were taken after the work was done, unfortunately my phone doesn't really capture the lighting as well as it should, so it's a little deceptive in the pic, always 3 shades darker than what it actually is. Tried to adjust my camera settings to no avail, nice clean amber fluid in there.

Battery terminals look a little dark because of the coating of corrosion protection spray that I used.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

When this battery finally dies, it will be replaced with an AGM one like I have in my Volvo, so no worries about acid leaks or corroded terminals.
Actually I haven’t seen a battery terminal clamp looks like that bad in your picture for a long time. The battery terminal clamps on my 22-year-old 1998 Honda CR-V still look like new as leaking battery is rare nowadays with better technology. I’d get a new OEM cable with new terminal clamp when you get a new battery, unless your clamp condition looks much better than in the picture like the brake fluid.
 
The battery terminals are fine, like I said battery corosion protector has been applied to the terminals.

A little dust has accumulated on it also over the last couple months as the reason they look dark.

They would look perfectly shiny, almost new if I remove the corrosion protection.
 
Replaced some anti rattle clips that I didn't have on hand when I changed the pads a while back. But I only bought the fronts by mistake. Also added more fill to the trash rear diff mount. It'll be filled eventually.
20200814_151508.webp

20200814_153630.webp
 
Replaced the rear brake pads and rotors on our 2016.5 touring. 92,500 miles on the original brakes and the rear still had LEFT 4mm/4mm (outer/inner) and RIGHT 3mm/4mm thickness remaining. Probably could have gone another 20k miles but it's developed a slight pulsation while braking that is beginning to get annoying so wanted to get some new rotors on. I like Raybestos brand components ...Element3 Coated Rotors 981008FZN and Pads EHT1846H

The job itself was pretty straight forward and easy. I followed the procedure for placing the rear EPB in "maintenance mode" and just used my thumbs to push the piston in by hand to fit the new pads. The two caliper bolts are 14mm as well as the two bracket bolts (need to remove those to replace the rotor.) Caliper slide pins were still free moving and boots in good shape.

I was a little worried how hard it would be to pop the rotors off (untouched since new) but they came right off by running a bolt in the little threaded "pilot hole" (Idunno what you call it). I don't know what size bolt it is but it's got to be pretty common because I had a lot of that size in my "spare bolt jar".

Key points:
Make sure you get the EPB in "Maintenance Mode"
Knock off any corrosion in the channels for the pad clips so the new ones fit in properly.
Don't turn the piston any and just push it straight in by hand, just enough to fit over new pads.
I knock the rust off with a wire brush/sand paper and slather a little anti-seeze compound where the rotor contacts the hub to make removal easy next time.

If your thinking about doing your brakes yourself I think these were pretty easy to do. You could literally do it with one 14mm crescent wrench, a hammer, and piece of sand paper. No reason to pay a shop a bunch of money to do this.
 

Attachments

  • 20200815_233105.webp
    20200815_233105.webp
    184.9 KB · Views: 255
Last edited:

New Threads and Articles

Back