Installed my trailer harness today using Howlin4you's parts list and general method. I piggybacked the connector on top of the hitch for a clean OEM look. Thanks for the info!
Looks better than OEM! (and I have an OEM so I know ;-)
What have you done to your CX-5 today?
- Thread starter Kayger12
- Start date
Looks better than OEM! (and I have an OEM so I know ;-)
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- San Antonio, Texas
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- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
Turns out the cause was the tabs abs sensor on the front left wheel somehow came out letting it dangle onto the axle. A little bit of the insulation has rubbed off, exposing the metal wire, which was creating a short and causing the cel and inoperation. Most likely the wire can be repaired and the tab put back in place (+ a ziptie for extra security). I was told over the phone that both sensors needed to be replaced, and that it was going to cost $523 (already paid $120 for diagnostics). I was also told it was a result of my suspension. It is obviously a case of whatever made the tab come out maybe a bump + heat or something. Now, it is possible that removing the tab during installation (43000 mi ago) weakened it, and it managed to pop out. But don't try to tell me that basically it was hanging to low all along especially when the other wire is fine. So, I'm going to pay for the $44 sensor, determine if I need to pull the old one or not, and put a ziptie on both to ensure that if the tabs come out, that won't happen again
.. I would recommend that to anyone though if the tab pops out for any reason it will most likely drag, and short once the rubber is worn down. Especially if you are lowered, because even though there are two tabs, the wire is situated in a "u".
basically this is the part from what I can glean from the workshop page, I don't even need to remove the wheel.. how the f they gonna charge $500 http://am.mazdaserviceinfo.com/emaz...3\CX5\mv\books\mvw04/html/id041500800300.html
.. I would recommend that to anyone though if the tab pops out for any reason it will most likely drag, and short once the rubber is worn down. Especially if you are lowered, because even though there are two tabs, the wire is situated in a "u".
basically this is the part from what I can glean from the workshop page, I don't even need to remove the wheel.. how the f they gonna charge $500 http://am.mazdaserviceinfo.com/emaz...3\CX5\mv\books\mvw04/html/id041500800300.html
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(drinks)
This is most likely what happened. Lowering the car itself probably didn't cause the problem, but the act of doing eventually did. The wire is fairly simple to do. Take all the bolts off holding the wire to the vehicle, remove the sensor from the hub, which may be on there tightly. You may have to remove part of the inner fender well, you may not. Then trace it back into the engine bay where it should connect to a quick release connector. I agree, $500 is outrageous. Each ABS line should be approximately 1hr labor book time, but I've never worked on this model, so it's just an educated guess. You should not need to reset ant CEL lights once finished.
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- San Antonio, Texas
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- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
Yea, I would still recommend a ziptie to anyone who installs a new spring/coilover and removes that tab just for piece of mind. I don't think I should have to unbolt anything if I use a lift.
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- San Antonio, Texas
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- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
Did you dip your emblem to make the M?
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- San Antonio, Texas
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- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
Considering getting these billet sway bar brackets if the zinc one bends again. I am trying to get a replacement atm. http://www.hotchkis.net/heavy_duty_billet_sway_bar_bushing_brackets2.html probably style b 1" $110
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(rlaugh)
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- San Antonio, Texas
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- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
I prefer Tacos..
Considering getting these billet sway bar brackets if the zinc one bends again. I am trying to get a replacement atm. http://www.hotchkis.net/heavy_duty_billet_sway_bar_bushing_brackets2.html probably style b 1" $110
I don't have issues with mine (JBR-but bushing&bracket are off the shelf item-Prothane), did you tighten the bushing bracket first before the end links? make sure the rear wheels are on a ramp before tighten the end links.
those Hotchkis are nice! better than the JBR ones!
got both rear rotors replaced today...vehicle's got 21,000km on the clock.
took it to the dealer today because when brakes were applied, it sounded like something was wobbling in the back of the vehicle. Its a bit funny that I could hear but not feel the pulsing in the brake pedal, but my wife could feel it pulsing in the brake pedal, but could not hear it..how's that for a perfect couple.
Anyway, my dealer said that the rear rotors were warped (how does that even happen ????) and replaced them under warranty...
in case you didnt know, apparantly the warranty for the rotors expire at 20,000km, however, they were able to work something out for me...being that i had gone over that by 1,000km.
took it to the dealer today because when brakes were applied, it sounded like something was wobbling in the back of the vehicle. Its a bit funny that I could hear but not feel the pulsing in the brake pedal, but my wife could feel it pulsing in the brake pedal, but could not hear it..how's that for a perfect couple.
Anyway, my dealer said that the rear rotors were warped (how does that even happen ????) and replaced them under warranty...
in case you didnt know, apparantly the warranty for the rotors expire at 20,000km, however, they were able to work something out for me...being that i had gone over that by 1,000km.
Iceman04503
Member
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- 2015 Mazda CX-5
I didn't know that rotors were under warranty.
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- San Antonio, Texas
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- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
I'm ready to replace my brake pads is it just a hand tool thing or do I need to be concerned with other factors?
Dealers can replace rotors under warranty with discretion.
No power tools are required, but you will need a tool to push the caliper piston back into it's bore. If you're slick enough you can jam a strong screwdriver/pry bar into the top window and pry the caliper against to rotor to push it in. However, the old fluid needs to go somewhere. Some people will push it back into the lines and into the master cylinder, but I don't recommend doing that. It's possible to damage an ABS system that way. I, and many professionals, will use a brake line block tool to block the fluid from going back and releasing the fluid back through the caliper bleeder. DO NOT use vice grips to block the brake line off, as I've seen done many times before, you will internally damage the brake like and can cause premature failure. Don't forget to bleed the brakes afterwards, a couple air bubbles always ends up in the lines. The master cylinder will also need to be topped off.
Edit: if you're replacing the rear brakes, you will most likely require a special rear caliper tool that pushes and turns the caliper piston in.
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Iceman04503
Member
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- 2015 Mazda CX-5
Installed some mud flaps and dipped the wheels since I don't have any money for other black wheels.
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/34559518@N07/14462038874" title="Untitled by Iceman04503, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3890/14462038874_6b40386bf0_z.jpg" width="640" height="360" alt="Untitled"></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/34559518@N07/14276543980" title="Untitled by Iceman04503, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5077/14276543980_f2741ebcca_z.jpg" width="640" height="360" alt="Untitled"></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/34559518@N07/14462038874" title="Untitled by Iceman04503, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3890/14462038874_6b40386bf0_z.jpg" width="640" height="360" alt="Untitled"></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/34559518@N07/14276543980" title="Untitled by Iceman04503, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5077/14276543980_f2741ebcca_z.jpg" width="640" height="360" alt="Untitled"></a>
