What have you done to your CX-5 today?

From what I’ve read. The ke had the sensor directly on the trans the kf moved it to the hub… experts correct me if I’m wrong

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The front brake schematic you posted is for the passenger / right side. Here’s the driver / left side:

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This’s the ABS (speed) sensor as described by the part name. And there’re 4 ABS speed sensors on 4 wheel hubs at 4 corners.

There’s only one vehicle speed sensor (VSS) located at transmission output shaft area.

You can’t use one LF ABS speed sensor to decide the actual vehicle speed as one wheel could be spinning or stopped due to road conditions or braking which will give the PCM a false info on vehicle speed.

The P0500 code is from VSS malfunctioning, not from ABS sensors. Your mechanic somehow figured out the LF ABS sensor is at fault which caused all the warning lights. But definitely isn’t from P0500 code.

BTW, I seem to remember some reports that a bad ABS sensor would cause multiple warning lights like yours. But usually those CX-5’s are much older with much higher mileage.
 
.... Your mechanic somehow figured out the LF ABS sensor is at fault ...
My theory is that the scan tool used by @Jef garbled up the code and description, but the one used by the pro did not. OBD code C0500 is a perfect match to the resolution of the problem. Before retiring, I spent a lifetime writing and looking at computer code, and know how easy it would be for someone to mistakenly assign that 0500 as a 'P' instead of a 'C', while building the text block for the output display description for the code. Just another simple coding error that didn't get caught in the testing phase.

But IMO this is not in any way important enough to belabor it any further, so I'll just be leaving at that - nothing but my own theory.
 
My theory is that the scan tool used by @Jef garbled up the code and description, but the one used by the pro did not. OBD code C0500 is a perfect match to the resolution of the problem. Before retiring, I spent a lifetime writing and looking at computer code, and know how easy it would be for someone to mistakenly assign that 0500 as a 'P' instead of a 'C', while building the text block for the output display description for the code. Just another simple coding error that didn't get caught in the testing phase.

But IMO this is not in any way important enough to belabor it any further, so I'll just be leaving at that - nothing but my own theory.
Can I ask you a question though? I thought there’s no specific error code to assigned to each of these 4 ABS sensors but this C0500 does pinpoint to the “left front” ABS wheel speed sensor. Are there other 3 codes for the rest 3 ABS sensors?
 
Can I ask you a question though? I thought there’s no specific error code to assigned to each of these 4 ABS sensors but this C0500 does pinpoint to the “left front” ABS wheel speed sensor. Are there other 3 codes for the rest 3 ABS sensors?
I don't have an answer for you on that. I only arrived at the C0500 when it occurred to me that all of the ABS-related codes are normally in the 'C' OBD group, so at that point I just took a look at C0500, which happened to match up perfectly to the problem resolution. I suspect there must be similar codes for the other 3 wheel sensors, but don't know that for certain.
 
I don't have an answer for you on that. I only arrived at the C0500 when it occurred to me that all of the ABS-related codes are normally in the 'C' OBD group, so at that point I just took a look at C0500, which happened to match up perfectly to the problem resolution. I suspect there must be similar codes for the other 3 wheel sensors, but don't know that for certain.
Hey man… Hopefully someone searches this mess one day and finds use of it 😂
 
@Inked up Looks great! Rear end looks clean with the emblems shaved and the CS exhaust looks stock. Is that carbon fiber overlays on your headlight trim and eyelids?

Not me, but took some pics of my in-laws new 2023 in soul red crystal metallic. We have finally converted them. Now I am trying to convince my FIL to trade in his 2003 Saturn L200 for a Miata. ;)
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Yeah, they're the Ducks garden eyelids and lower headlamp garnishes that I had overlaid in carbon fiber.

Now you can find the eyelids made in real carbon fiber for much cheaper but at the time I bought them they weren't available.
 
Yeah, they're the Ducks garden eyelids and lower headlamp garnishes that I had overlaid in carbon fiber.

Now you can find the eyelids made in real carbon fiber for much cheaper but at the time I bought them they weren't available.

Those are nice, subtle touches!
 
Got the summer tires installed. When I had the winters installed last October I went to a random shop that a friend recommended, paid $40 and I thought I was good to go. He had a broken arm and he basically had to install the wheels twice because he forgot the center covers (that go under the lugnuts)
Had no problems during the winter, and decided to go to the dealership this time. They told me the lugnuts were way too tight and as a result one stud was damaged and another one was broken. (They showed them to me and I saw the damage) So while trying to save $40 last october I ended up having to pay an extra $180 to replace the studs.
 
Picked up the USB hardware for the Apple Carplay/Android Auto and now trying to rip the dash apart after updating the infotainment firmware myself.

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Ripped both the front door panels off of my new to me 2016 Mazda CX-5 GT to superglue the backs of the factory BOSE speakers back on which had the rubber rusted away from the housing, considering replacing them along with the 3 front dash speakers and the 2 rear door speakers as I don't care for the front bass heavy no highs audio it came with.


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Dangit!!!!!

I really wish that I hadn't see the condition of Bloes speakers in your car! I have two 2016's with those speakers in them that I'm now going to have check out.

If I'm going to go through the trouble of removing the door panels, I think that I'm going to order some new speakers and just replace em while I'm at it. No reason to put those junkers back in.
 

Ripped both the front door panels off of my new to me 2016 Mazda CX-5 GT to superglue the backs of the factory BOSE speakers back on which had the rubber rusted away from the housing,
There’s a TSB for this problem. Luckily I saw the TSB early when my 2016 CX-5 still had the new car warranty. And my Mazda dealer went ahead replaced both front door Bose 9” woofers no questions asked with the improved version which supposedly won’t rust away like originals.


⋯ considering replacing them along with the 3 front dash speakers and the 2 rear door speakers as I don't care for the front bass heavy no highs audio it came with.
Yes Bose system on gen-1 CX-5 really sucks on highs as there’s no tweeters designed into the 9-speaker Bose system.

Strangely the same Bose system on the 2016 Mazda6 does have 2 extra tweeters on dash. Like dead pedal cover and front center vent open / close dials which were also found on the Mazda6 but missing on the CX-5, I was wondering why Mazda was so cheap to the CX-5 wouldn’t offer those nice amenities at the same level as the Mazda6?
 
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Absolutely! Just order the door panel clips first cause even using the right tools to remove the door panels you will break half the clips they are kinda designed that way.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

Here are a couple videos to walk you through the door panel removal process:




Thing about the front door speakers is they are low impedance woofers running only 1.25 Ohms with heavily processed signals and therefore the heart of all the bass in the system, I will probably replace the rear door speakers to add more range to the sound and make the rear relevant by also adding a sub in the spare tire (Kenwood and Kicker both make a perfect one), it’s too bad the front door speakers receive mainly low bass frequencies as would rather have coaxials beside me and they would be useless in this configuration, plenty have installed three Polk db351 speakers in the left/right/centre dash to solve the lack of tweeters/highs so might try that as well.

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For now I can confirm cleaning off the old rusting material with 99% alcohol and gorilla gluing the rubber back to the housing restored the distorting/rattling front speakers to factory condition, several before me have comments that they are still going strong years later with this easy fix so will run them till I can figure out what I want to do to improve the audio for my specific preferences.

Please take note there is a big difference between discussion of BOSE equipped factory audio packages vs non-BOSE equipment and read these threads before going down the speaker replacement rabbit hole:


 
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not today but a couple of days ago. I put some Xpel paint protection on the door sills. Can't really see it but it holds up well. I have used it on my other vehicle door sills and it holds up to abuse and keeps the paint like new.
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