The Tire Wear Problem Thread

[kleptomaniak]

I have one the earliest fresh-off-the-boat 06 models in the states. I'll tell all of you what the fix is, so listen carefully. I first bought a set of summer high performance tires. At below 35 PSI, these tires barely lasted 10K and the rears were cupping badly on the inside to the point that they almost came off the tread! Then I switch over to a less high performance set of sumitomos. I ran 225s all around, and with less than 36 PSI, the rear cupping resumed. I then got an alignment check , and the rear camber was still in spec, even though you can see that the camber is a i little aggressive. It gets more pronounced if you go wider.

I then tried increasing the PSI to 38. After I did this it was instant magic. The cupping went away! Like I said a while ago. Make sure your tires are inflated above 36 PSIs. This will solve your problems. Check your pressure out once every other week at least. Keep a tire pressure guage handy. This is all easy and routine stuff that we should be doing anyways.

 

[Rocket]

I routinely get 40,000 miles from tires including the Toyos that came from the dealer. As the others point out above, pressure is critical. As is frequent rotations.

My problem is I feel I should get more than 40,000 miles! 60 - 80 minimum...

 

[bulwnkl]

A bit of an update:

I gave up on the local Mazda autocrosser's alignment spec some time last year. We also bought new tires last year. I've gone to a zero toe rear alignment, and that's helped significantly. I won't claim no improper wear whatsoever, but zeroing the toe is extremely helpful at a minimum (just as one would expect).

 

[johenkel]

I got my new (used) Mazda5 last Saturday. I took a test drive Friday and noticed the loud noise in the back and said I have to sleep over it.
That same evening I found out all about the unusual fast wear on the back tires.

This thread here gave me hope and I bought the car the day after (after they put a new set of tires on the back). I really like the design and functionality for such a small car for my family! Not quite a van but bigger than a compact with ample seating.

Ok, anyways - I just wanted to confirm with you guys if I got a good start on the tire wear situation.

front:
pretty new Riken Raptor 205/50ZR17 98W
max PSI 51 - I set it to 42

rear:
new Cooper Sport Zeon 205/50ZR17 93W
max PSI 50 - I set it to 42

Its a 2008 w/ 37500 miles. The "one owner" was a rental company (yeah, I know, so it had 500 owners with rattling keys and dirty shoes...)

Next oil change is in 3000 miles and I will start rotating tires.

I will let you guys know how it will turn out. *twistmyfingers*

johenkel

 

[Tmurk]

tire wear/ max tire size/power steering upgrade?

I have an 09 Mazda 5 with approx 65K Km. Similar scalloping and noise from rear tires reported here and one front tire worn on the inside at 40Km. I took it to the dealer and they told me it had an alignment problem but did not measure it or want to cover it on warranty. They told me the tires should be rotated every 10Km but did not explain how rotating the tires cures the alignment problem. As far as I can tell, if there is a problem, frequent tire rotation wears out all the tires really fast. They offered to sell me a new set for about $175 ea... and recommended an alignment. I also reported what I think is a saftey concern (if the engine is shut off while driving the power steering does not turn back on even after the engine starts up again, it takes several seconds- they had never heard of this problem....)I took it to a different shop, had an alignment done and a new set of winter tires installed. The winter tires seem to be fine. I am ready to replace the winter tires and am wondering how large I can go on the replacement. Has anyone tried 225 60 16?
Is there a software upgrade for the power steering so that it comes on when the key is turned on?
Thanks in advance,
Tmurk

 

[KBrian]

I am ready to replace the winter tires and am wondering how large I can go on the replacement. Has anyone tried 225 60 16?
Tmurk

I assume that you have a GS model with 16 inch wheels. No matter, both the 16 and 17 inch wheels are 6.5 inches wide. This is the limiting factor in what tires you can run.

Upgrading to 215/55-16 tires is fairly common, but any wider will not fit too well. 225/60's will be very tall compared to the stock tires-speedo will be completely out of wack even if there was no rubbing.

Go with 215/55-16's. Size is common, prices are cheap, and choices between grip, wear and smoothness will be limitless.(drinks)

 

[amcmike]

I got my new (used) Mazda5 last Saturday. I took a test drive Friday and noticed the loud noise in the back and said I have to sleep over it.
That same evening I found out all about the unusual fast wear on the back tires.

This thread here gave me hope and I bought the car the day after (after they put a new set of tires on the back). I really like the design and functionality for such a small car for my family! Not quite a van but bigger than a compact with ample seating.

Ok, anyways - I just wanted to confirm with you guys if I got a good start on the tire wear situation.

front:
pretty new Riken Raptor 205/50ZR17 98W
max PSI 51 - I set it to 42

rear:
new Cooper Sport Zeon 205/50ZR17 93W
max PSI 50 - I set it to 42

Its a 2008 w/ 37500 miles. The "one owner" was a rental company (yeah, I know, so it had 500 owners with rattling keys and dirty shoes...)

Next oil change is in 3000 miles and I will start rotating tires.

I will let you guys know how it will turn out. *twistmyfingers*

johenkel

Did you get a four wheel alignment? Make sure you compare it to the recommended. I had the dealer recheck it under warrenty with only 5k on it and they said it was out. So my guess is, it came this way right off the boat. With about 12k all is still fine.

 

[Robotazky]

If your tires are the OEM size (i.e., written on the door jam), then use the tire pressure that is written there. 42 psig is going to beat the living sh*t out of you and cause the interior to fall apart. Doesn't the door jam say 34 psig? The suspension is designed and tuned to have the OEM tires at the factory-stated pressure.

 

[AIMWO4]

Personally... I just take the corners fast to promote even wear. (cabpatch)

 

[thaxman]

Ok, anyways - I just wanted to confirm with you guys if I got a good start on the tire wear situation.

front:
pretty new Riken Raptor 205/50ZR17 98W
max PSI 51 - I set it to 42

rear:
new Cooper Sport Zeon 205/50ZR17 93W
max PSI 50 - I set it to 42

You like driving on rocks? Personally 42 psi is WAYYY too Fred Flinstone for me. Especially if you put that pressure in cold. Unless you always drive with the car loaded, you will wear the centerlines of the tires along with the rear inside edge. I would suggest no more than 38 cold - the door recommends only 34.

 

[Robotazky]

If you can stand the really firm ride of going over 34 psig, then you'll certainly get better gas mileage. Whether it's noticeable is arguable. Plus, you do have to worry about uneven wear, along the center, like thaxman said. I'd stick with 34 if you have OEM size tires.

 

[KBrian]

Whatever you do, do not exceed the maximum cold pressures written on the side of the tire.

 

[vinist]

if your camber or toe or caster is out 2 degrees YOU hit something. pothole, curb or whatever is was you caused that measurement to be out. 2 degree is an incredible amount... like scary bad. also you need to rotate far more often, not doing so GAURANTEES they we scuff of the edges and be ruined far too early. you havent done the most basic of maintence on your vehicle, dont blame mazda. the vast majority of tires retailers say right in the warranty forms you MUST rotate every 8-10,000 kms (approx every 5000 miles).

you cant be this bad with maintenance and expect no problems... also a heads up you should get an oil change occasionally too.

there heres a bit of information on our 5's and there tires.

first off the OE tires are VERY crappy, switch into any good brand of tire and you will notice an immediate performance difference. most OE tires that have a brand (eg michelin, toyo, etc) arent truly made by that manufacturer and the few that are, are made to crappy standards so they can sell them cheaply to car manufacturers.

mazda, ford or whomever go to Toyo, for instance, and say "we want your name on the tires we put on OE vehicles but we wont pay you anywhere near normal pricing, make us lower tread life tires, lower quality materials and lower the cost, THEN you have a deal"

how do i know this? i run a large tire store and have a good friend that manages a car dealership.

want proof? why do your OE tires last maybe 30-50km when the same brand bought at any tire store last 80-130km? it isnt bad luck, trust me. it is the same reason tires from costco or some other low quality tire centers burn off so quick, despite being "the same tire". the 32/nds on michelin tires from the centres is lower and they sell for less... see a pattern?

cheap tires (eg goodyear, continential, general) are cheap for a reason, they are garbage.

buy a good brand for what you need andyou wont have the same problem.

lastly the reccommend PSI is based on the crappy OE tires, once you have good tires on run them at 36-40 PSI, your fuel economy will go up, the 5 handles better and you can carry more weight without the 5 feeling sluggish.

 

[thaxman]

Yeah, like vinist said...

I also have 4 years exp. in tires. I have seen tires come in that were bald down the center with more than half the tread remaining on both outer edges. Overinflating your tires may save you 1% mpg, but what is that worth if you replace your tires 2X faster? $600-$800 a pop? Pay for the gas, my friend...
Plus overinflation is dangerous. Those guys who come in with only centerline wear are only riding on that part of the tire, so in essence, with 205 series tires, they are using only 105mm-145mm of what is available - for emergency stopping and maneouvering. We all know that putting skinny tires on a car increases its stopping distance. Same thing. And forget the deer-avoidance maneouver.

 

[vinist]

Yeah, like vinist said...

I also have 4 years exp. in tires. I have seen tires come in that were bald down the center with more than half the tread remaining on both outer edges. Overinflating your tires may save you 1% mpg, but what is that worth if you replace your tires 2X faster? $600-$800 a pop? Pay for the gas, my friend...
Plus overinflation is dangerous. Those guys who come in with only centerline wear are only riding on that part of the tire, so in essence, with 205 series tires, they are using only 105mm-145mm of what is available - for emergency stopping and maneouvering. We all know that putting skinny tires on a car increases its stopping distance. Same thing. And forget the deer-avoidance maneouver.

this can be very true if you go very heavy on the air pressure, especially guys with trucks that run them WAY too high for a glorified grocery getter.

raising your PSI to 36-40 on a good tire with max 51 PSI will workgreat, but do this on your OE toyos and you be buying new tires very soon.

again rotate your tires and watch the wear on them, if you dont know what to look for then take it to a good tire place and get them to rotate your tires, if they are any good they will spot problems long before your tires are toast.

 

[Lonia]

The honeymoon is over. I remember when I first bought our Mazda 5 for 30000$ in 08 there wasn't one negative post on the M 5...now well, you don't have to search very far. At 63K, I'm on my second set of tires (I have to replace them tomorrow). So I spoke to the tire expert (O.K. tire) and inquired on aligning the vehicule. Well he tells me it's around 700$. First reaction I thought he was pulling my chain, so I went to my local Mazda dealer in Pembroke, Ontario and when I mentioned the 700$ he didn't even blink or was surprised...I was obiously not the first person raise this. At 225$ a tire, 2 blown rear shocks, owning a M5 is expensive and I forsee it will continue to be expensive. I purchased my first and last Mazda in Ottawa and I will continue posting so other potentiel lost souls won't fall for a shiny mini van with 17 inch rims, that seats 6 but only if your wife weighs 100 pounds and your kids' combined weight does not have a negative effect on the performance of this little 4 cylinder.

 

[exman]

My mom and I both have 06 mazda5s. I was getting the rotational noise associated with uneven wear at around 20,000 miles. I had just moved and was going to a new Mazda dealership for my scheduled service and the guy said it looked as though the tires had never been rotated. He rotated them for me, fronts to rears, and said that if the noise came back or got worse, he could sell me new tires, but he couldn't do it in good conscience, then, because the amount of tread left (on the good sides) was decent. two oil changes later, the noise was getting worse, and he sold me a whole new set of tires. They're much less noisy, and I haven't had uneven wear troubles yet (been on about 6k miles).

My mom's 5 is up to about 28k miles and she is now getting the rotational noise... she's dealing with the same dealership I was, before I moved.


If you go for regular service at a mazda dealership, how often should they be rotated? Is it in the schedule of regular maintenance?

Has anyone gotten uneven wear on tires besides the stock Toyos?

I had Falken Ziex 912's as my 3rd set and really the tire wear is alot better with out any adjustment. The Toyos are really really junky. Although that were good on wet snow. My 2 sets of toyos were junk and the second set where i got 30k miles on them were shot in the back with no rotating at all. The Falken 912's ride really nice but not as sticky and I have 38k on them and they are at 5/32'' all around.

 

[exman]

Just buy 215/50/17s and stop arguing an endless battle with them. Good grief. Half the people freakin' out about the tire wear could've have worked and made enough money to buy tires that won't wear unevenly in the time they've spent researching and complaining. I used to get all freaked out when everything on my new cars wasn't just perfect. You know, s*** happens and rarely do any of the car companies fix what is wrong. All of them are like that now. That is why close physical inspection before purchase is so important.

BTW, I bought 215/50/17s and haven't had one bit of weird tire wear. It's probably just those total garbage Toyos doing it anyway. The only new cars I've bought in the last five years with good tires on them were Hondas. Unfortunately, that's where the quality ended and both were quickly sold due to being junk cars with LOTS of issues. I can promise you that if all you can complain about is junky tires wearing unevenly on your new cars, then you've got it easy and should count your blessings instead of wasting more time.

Ha you're from Lexington! I was just at paul Miller today! Anyhow I agree with your statement about the toyos and the 215's look better on the car and ride much nicer as almost all my inside back tires were gone on the toyos the falkens are looking pretty good and i do not take care of my car very well. Make sure you get any warranty work on TSB's before 36k the good service manager is gone and that isn't good news he was pretty awesome.

 

[johenkel]

Did you get a four wheel alignment? Make sure you compare it to the recommended. I had the dealer recheck it under warrenty with only 5k on it and they said it was out. So my guess is, it came this way right off the boat. With about 12k all is still fine.

Nope. Didn't get that done.
I am 10k down the road, still rotating and so far everything seems fine.

johenkel

 

[jwhgg]

Hi,

I am with a law firm that is investigating complaints about Mazda tires wearing out prematurely. If you own a Mazda and are experiencing these types of issues and want to learn more about our investigation, please visit our website at www.GirardGibbs.com/Mazda-tire.asp or give me a call toll-free at (866) 981-4800. You can also reach me by email at jwh@GirardGibbs.com.

Thanks,

John