Strange 2.5T Engine misfire problem w/multiple choice answer game. Come play.

Link to video showing major vibration from misfires

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/h0k8t4venrko64ml9wfjy/20260329_144233.mp4?rlkey=6erqnmbe4aeg8ys95iaqr6ot4&st=nxcses06&dl=0
 
Link to video showing major vibration from misfires

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/h0k8t4venrko64ml9wfjy/20260329_144233.mp4?rlkey=6erqnmbe4aeg8ys95iaqr6ot4&st=nxcses06&dl=0
That looks and sounds rough. If you bring the revs up, does it smooth out or no?
 
That looks and sounds rough. If you bring the revs up, does it smooth out or no?
Yeah its terrible. That video is with the car in drive and foot on brake. If I take my foot off the brake the revs go up and it smooths out a good amount. If I have it in park and rev up the rpms it is smooth. It's really strange. Maybe I should just replace all four plugs and all four coils. I don't know if it's brake booster related anymore or some other issue but this is so frustrating. Still working on finding a coolant system pressure tester loaner from an auto parts store.
 
Good evening all,

Here's an interesting one I thought I'd post to get a consensus on an engine misfire on all cylinders issue on my 2020 CX-9 GT 2.5T. 36k miles.

Yesterday, I noticed the engine running rough, lower idle than usual with the car in drive and my foot on the brake. Engine sounded wierd and was stumbling and felt like it was close to stalling. If I remove my foot from the brake, the idle went back up by at least 100 rpm and the engine smoothed out. Press again and idle lowers and engine stumbles.

This does not happen if the car is in park idling, even with foot on brake. It only happens when in drive or reverse with foot on brake.

Broke out my TopDon BT scan tool to look at live data stream and confirmed that there were many misfires on all cylinders occurring with numbers slowly rising, however NO check engine light was on or had been triggered thus far. This was confirmed over multiple trips. Incidentally, if I leave the car to cool off and come back to start it a couple hours later, the engine has trouble starting for a few seconds it cranks and stumbles and finally gets going. Almost as if there was bad plugs or coils, but that is not possible because the misfires are across all cylinders.

I looked under the engine cover and there is no damage to the wires to the coils or injectors from any animals.

Further, the plugs were replaced with genuine NGK at 30k miles as preventative maintenance even though 40k miles are the normal time to replace.

So, before I take it to the dealer(I have a mazda oem extended contract) I thought I'd post and play a game of what could be wrong and who votes the most on the multiple choice answers to the problem below.

Possible choices are:
A) Bad brake booster with torn diaphragm/vacuum leak letting unmetered air into engine causing misfires and idle fluctuations when brake pedal applied under engine load

B) Dirty or stuck EGR valve

C) Cracked Cylinder head causing coolant intrusion and misfiring in all cylinders,also causing hard starting since coolant can pool in the cylinders and is not combustible like gas.

D) One or more cylinders have low compression due to bad rings or for unknown reasons.

E) Combination of any of the above

F) None of the above.

Lets go!
have you check your gas. have you change where you buy your gas. Or maybe you got a bad batch from Iran. LOL
 
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Yeah its terrible. That video is with the car in drive and foot on brake. If I take my foot off the brake the revs go up and it smooths out a good amount. If I have it in park and rev up the rpms it is smooth. It's really strange. Maybe I should just replace all four plugs and all four coils. I don't know if it's brake booster related anymore or some other issue but this is so frustrating. Still working on finding a coolant system pressure tester loaner from an auto parts store.
Well most issues mentioned in this thread should affect the engine at all RPMs. I don't recommend replacing the coil packs. They rarely go bad, and the odds of all four of them being bad are almost zero.
 
There has got to be some significance with the brakes because of the different response that you noted. Does your OBD tool show any brake-related sensor/stats or do you know all that is involved in braking? Mine shows two: brake fluid pressure and brake switch, but there could be more on your CX-9. What other aspects of the car need to react when the brake is depressed? Asking because I don't know. 😳
 
It can't hurt unless it ends up being a waste of time. I can't imagine bad spark plugs running just fine when you raise the RPM...
 
Have you tried re-seating coil packs? Which cyl's misfiring? It didn't throw any codes? Has been doing this for a while? Multiple tanks of gas?
 
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Didn't get any random codes on the infotainment screen did you?

One time I had the car start sputtering, and went into a limp mode I guess? Turned it off, and back on and it was fine. Only the codes through the infotainment, and to the app. Never threw an actual ECU code.
 
Is it normal for the RPM to go down ONLY when the car is in drive or reverse WITH foot on brake? If I put the parking brake on with the car in drive but no foot on the brake, the engine rpm is higher around 725 and seems to idle ok. Once I put my foot on the brake, the rpm drops to about 550 and then I get the shaking and feeling like it wants to stall but doesn't. It just runs like crap.
Confirmed today that this is how mine behaves, minus the running like crap.
 
Have you tried re-seating coil packs? Which cyl's misfiring? It didn't throw any codes? Has been doing this for a while? Multiple tanks of gas?
I checked coils before removing plugs and confirmed all tight. No codes in the ECM which is pretty ridiculous. Cylinder 3 ( second plug from the top in the pic I posted) had the most number of misfires but all cylinders had misfire counts. This just started out of nowhere. I did fill up a few gallons at Costco right before this happened but I think that is coincidence as you can see from the plugs this had to be slowly happening but not noticeable until now. I did fill up again with 93 octane from another station since and no difference. I dont know what's going on but it's really frustrating.
 
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Didn't get any random codes on the infotainment screen did you?

One time I had the car start sputtering, and went into a limp mode I guess? Turned it off, and back on and it was fine. Only the codes through the infotainment, and to the app. Never threw an actual ECU code.
No random misfire codes anywhere. Its absolutely amazing to me that Mazda programming could be so desensitized to not pick up misfires and throw a code when they are clearly happening. Lots of damage could be done until it does, or IF it ever does. That's ridiculous
 
There has got to be some significance with the brakes because of the different response that you noted. Does your OBD tool show any brake-related sensor/stats or do you know all that is involved in braking? Mine shows two: brake fluid pressure and brake switch, but there could be more on your CX-9. What other aspects of the car need to react when the brake is depressed? Asking because I don't know. 😳
That's what I thought but apparently it's a normal thing confirmed by N7Turbo. I also tested my wifes 2021 CX-5 2.5T and it also lowers the idle when stepping on the brake while in drive and then idle raises when foot off brake but hers doesn't run like crap when I test it.

Scan tool data shows brake switch, pressure etc all normal.
 
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Update, performed cooling system pressure test cold and let sit for 1 hour. Pumped to 16 PSI and pressure dropped .75 of 1 psi during that time so was down to 15.25. I dont know if this is significant or not but its something. Also I don't know if it's my imagination or not but I can swear I smell the slight odor of coolant every time I drive the car and check under the hood when it's warm.

After the pressure test, I swapped the number 3 cylinder coil with my wifes car since thats the one with the carbon fouled looking plug. I started her car and used the scan tool to check for misfires. None. Also ran fine. So I swapped it back.

Then, I replaced all 4 plugs with new identical NGK laser iridium from advance auto and checked the gap before installing. They were right on .030 from the factory. I also swapped the #3 coil with #1 coil at the same time. Put everything back and fired it up.

Result was very smooth on startup and idle in park. Put into drive with parking brake on, idle dropped a bit but still seemed smooth. Applied brake pedal in drive and idle dropped more and engine began to sound and shake worse but not as bad as before the plug change.

Checked live data for misfires and there were a handful on 2 of the 4 cylinders.

At this point what would you do next?

It's driving me nuts!
 
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