Spark plugs
- Thread starter Phoenix5
- Start date
Phoenix5 said:
i meant no disrespect.i wasn't trying to put you down or anything. i am just surprised that someone in this forum wasn't sure. 4 plugs is what you need. there is always one plug for every cylinder in a car...hence a four cyl car has four plugs(fuel injectors however can be different). if you plan to install plugs yourself i HIGHLY recommend you read up and have someone assist you. installing plugs is a simple job when you understand the procedure. if you need help this is the place. have fun learning....doing is much more fun than watching. (wiggle)
flat_black
Member
Actually, there are some engines that use two plugs per cylender. =) 1989-94 Ford Ranger with the 2.3 had twin plugs; Eight plugs for an I4... But that's getting off topic a little bit. Generally, one per cylender.
At any rate, I have NGK Iridium plugs in my P5, along with Magnecor wires... Smooth idle, clean burn... Whenever I change my plugs, I inspect the previous, and generally, I get blackened plugs, as the car likes to run kinda rich, as well as a bit of black on the tailpipe, especially after the header/HF second cat/sport exhaust. Since switching to the NGK Iridiums, the car smells cleaner (Don't sniff too deeply.
), the tailpipe STILL hasn't gotten blackened, even after 7500 miles or so, durring which time it usually would have turned dark black a few times. I run 89 octane, as well, as the car started getting rough at high revs after installing the header while I was still using 87, FYI.
At any rate, I have NGK Iridium plugs in my P5, along with Magnecor wires... Smooth idle, clean burn... Whenever I change my plugs, I inspect the previous, and generally, I get blackened plugs, as the car likes to run kinda rich, as well as a bit of black on the tailpipe, especially after the header/HF second cat/sport exhaust. Since switching to the NGK Iridiums, the car smells cleaner (Don't sniff too deeply.
), the tailpipe STILL hasn't gotten blackened, even after 7500 miles or so, durring which time it usually would have turned dark black a few times. I run 89 octane, as well, as the car started getting rough at high revs after installing the header while I was still using 87, FYI.mountjonas
Member
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- 2013 VRM MS3
NJP5Guy said:
not always true. my friends old 4cyl nissan pickup had 8 plugs.
the main reason to go for the iridium is for their overall lifespan. typically they could last something like 70-80,000 miles maybe more even before needing to be replaced. they MAY give you better power but very unnoticeable. they give a good clean burn...at least thats what deso says.
flat_black
Member
Most Japanese cars only work well with Denso/NGK plugs, where Bosch plugs will actually offer a loss of power, and they just make the car feel crappy, IMO... Whereas the Bosch plugs in my old Volvo made it feel GREAT.
oh i found the answer to my own question. on each spark plug's box it has a little diagram. i didn't understand it at first since there are no words, but after reading online i get it. first you hand tighten, then you turn 1/16th of a turn for conical seat plugs (not the ones i have) or 1/2 - 2/3 of a turn for the type i have. I read online that you should put anti-seize on the thread, is it really necessary with our cars?
edit: i'm trying to decide whether to throw the new plugs in now or wait until my wires are here. argh I ordered the wires on monday and the plugs on wednesday, plugs are here (from california), but wires... still waiting. sparkco hasn't even shipped them yet.
edit: i'm trying to decide whether to throw the new plugs in now or wait until my wires are here. argh I ordered the wires on monday and the plugs on wednesday, plugs are here (from california), but wires... still waiting. sparkco hasn't even shipped them yet.
flat_black
Member
Yep, use anti-seize. =) Just make sure not to get it on the electrode; Start putting it on about two millimeters from the last thread on the plug, as a suggestion. I, personally, torque to 19 lb/ft of torque, and the whole process only takes a few minutes.
flat_black
Member
Yep... We have the smallest one available... Not sure what size it is exactly, but I'd know it if I saw it, which doesn't help you, I guess. x.x Well, if you want to drive up to NH, I'll lend you my wrench, but that's a bit of a haul for you.
myndfi3ld said:
As someone else mentioned before, it's a good idea to only do the spark plugs first to see any change in performance, idle, fuel eco, etc... If you do both plugs and wires together, then you won't be positive which new part did what. It's called scientific method and you should always use it when diagnosing or experimenting with vehicles (or most anything IMO). Have fun.
Yeah haha I always think about scientific method, then I get impatient. It's like... hmm spark plugs + wires + exhaust all at the same time...rjmhotrod said:
but anyways, I put the plugs in. Wow, it was my first time changing plugs, are they that deep in most cars? The car seems smoother at lower RPMs. as for performance.. no, i'm not going to try and claim that i can feel the 0.0030 horsepower I gained.
The old plugs were black, but the little top hook thing that goes over the center electrode was white. They were all the same though, and the car was running well. Does this mean rich or lean, or die?
