- :
- '04 RX8
mspeedP5 said:
$49.99
Microtech Library
- Thread starter LinuxRacr
- Start date
$49.99
kicker22705
Member
- :
- 03.5 Ti MSP
when you guys road tune the microtech, and mess w/ timing, do you guys do it from the rpm or map pressure screen? i've been pulling it from the map pressure screen and i still seem to be getting pinging despite how much timing i pull.
should i lower the static timing from the 10 degrees it set at? thanks.
should i lower the static timing from the 10 degrees it set at? thanks.
i've only played with the timing/rpm map.
how i understand it is that the static timing freezes the timing to whatever you have it set at so you can check your timing to make sure it's the same. maybe you should do that to make sure that your timing isn't off. that could be your problem right there.
setting your max timing at 16 seems very low. iirc, i run that at idle. i also run maxtim of 45 with no issues(n/a though)
how i understand it is that the static timing freezes the timing to whatever you have it set at so you can check your timing to make sure it's the same. maybe you should do that to make sure that your timing isn't off. that could be your problem right there.
setting your max timing at 16 seems very low. iirc, i run that at idle. i also run maxtim of 45 with no issues(n/a though)
i largely leave the timing maps alone - not game to touch them until i get the car on a dyno and give it a thorough tune.....
The only places i've mucked with them is to iron out some noticable flat spots in the tune, and at idle to promote more vac to help me hold a better idle.
i'm still very much on the "very safe" side of timing.
BUT...what you do, is you do timing for RPM, then modify it for MAP. so you get a nice timing curve on RPM, then you use the MAP adjustments to add or pull timing for a specific vac or boost pressure.
The only places i've mucked with them is to iron out some noticable flat spots in the tune, and at idle to promote more vac to help me hold a better idle.
i'm still very much on the "very safe" side of timing.
BUT...what you do, is you do timing for RPM, then modify it for MAP. so you get a nice timing curve on RPM, then you use the MAP adjustments to add or pull timing for a specific vac or boost pressure.
you've got a wideband?mspeedP5 said:Thanks for the offer but all I really want is a map...
get out there and make your own map
"base" maps are only going to be good for getting you started - period.
A base map is not going to be something you are going to want to roll around on all day every day.
mspeedP5
Contributor
- :
- '02 Protege5
LordWorm said:you've got a wideband?
get out there and make your own map
"base" maps are only going to be good for getting you started - period.
A base map is not going to be something you are going to want to roll around on all day every day.
That's what I'm looking for. A base map for 550 injectors. To get me started.
kicker22705 said:I lost my dynotuned map while trying to save it on my adapter on MemCal3 and instead loaded a blank MemCal3 overwriting my unsaved dynotuned map
i'm using the base 550cc map and now i'm getting a lot of pinging now.
i tried to tune it last night by pulling timing in timtrm to 0, timmax to 16, pulled eventually an addition 10 degrees per boost in tmap and t-rpm and although it got better, i still was getting a lot of audible pinging. i ended up jus loading back the basemap again and drove home.
I take it you don't have a wideband or something? What injectors are you running? I"m guessing you are running 440's off of a 550 map? If so, you need to push your mixtrim up to 20% to even that out. Also, your timmax at 16 is WAY wrong I"m amazed the car is even running. That TimMax needs to be no lower than 28, but untuned no higher than about 34. You should be pulling also at maximum about 3 degrees of timing per psi of boost. What you've done right now is try to get the car to run at spark at TDC and that is probably causing all havoc and the car probably bucks and staggers and barely drives. So make a few adjustments to take care of it. But the biggest thing is you need a wideband on there, or at the least a narrowband and make sure the thing stays over into the rich side at all times until you can get the tune better or get a wideband. Shoot me an email at sales@nsnmotorsports.com if you have more questions past what I addressed above.
mspeedP5 said:
I'm really sorry to have to hold the company line of not providing our base maps to someone who didn't buy from us, but we have to be careful to protect our market and the knowledge that we've spent many hours and plenty of dyno and other dollars to gain... but that said... the map that comes on the microtech is not horribly far off to be able to start the car with 550's... I can tell you this much:
pre-Startup/cranking at ~70-80F should fall around 5.4-7.2 ms Idle when warmed will be about 1.19-1.30 ms output on the injectors (cold I believe it is around 1.85-1.92ms). Those values should get you close enough to get the car fired up. Just view the "output" box on the Microtech software in the lower right screen. Simply adjust the MixTrim value or the water temp values for your map to compensate. Otherwise, if you are already tuned on 280cc injectors. You can set the MixTrim to I believe roughly 75% positive and that will pull you in close enough to get started, but probably still run you significantly lean. However, I think the Microtech may limit to a maximum of 50% positive mixtrim.
Work toward those base injector values for cranking and idle and you'll be fine.
kicker22705
Member
- :
- 03.5 Ti MSP
TurfBurn said:
i changed the things i altered back to normal and made the changes you suggested and the car is running much better now. my mixtrim was at +4 but my afr was pretty good at idle and under load which is why i left it originally. its now at +20 and the afr has seemed to have gotton a little richer but not by much. however the change definately helped the pinging as its virtually gone now. i think i might have to recalibrate my wb.
thanks for the help, this will definately hold me down until i dynotune it again in the coming month
it is the point man, but don't take it too baddly when people, for whatever reason, chose not to help you out.mspeedP5 said:
if i had 550's and was boosted i'd share in a heartbeat...but there are people on this forum who make a living off these things so when they say no you just have to deal ....*shrug*
I'll help out wherever i can, and steve's given you a bunch of good starting points....
ok fixed my boost problems now I can tune, woohoo!
It is running hot after hard runs in 90F weather. For the first time, I was it go past the normal operating temperature (just a bit). My fan comes on at 94C, I'm thinking about setting that a little lower. I have another question though. How can I wire my A/C condenser fan to come on? I don't have A/C any more. If I hit the A/C button and leave it on, will it come on eventually? I'll test that out.
Right now she is running rich but I have a friend who is experienced and going to help me soon. One thing I haven't been able to do is verify timing--my UDP is aftermarket and doesn't have the little mark on it. Right now my values are set at:
TimTrm: 0
Static: 12
TimMax: 40 (looking at Steve's post above, I should lower this to 28-34)
values are per the map in post #43.
I'll keep you guys updated on how it goes, hopefully I'll get my damn exhaust soon too
It is running hot after hard runs in 90F weather. For the first time, I was it go past the normal operating temperature (just a bit). My fan comes on at 94C, I'm thinking about setting that a little lower. I have another question though. How can I wire my A/C condenser fan to come on? I don't have A/C any more. If I hit the A/C button and leave it on, will it come on eventually? I'll test that out.
Right now she is running rich but I have a friend who is experienced and going to help me soon. One thing I haven't been able to do is verify timing--my UDP is aftermarket and doesn't have the little mark on it. Right now my values are set at:
TimTrm: 0
Static: 12
TimMax: 40 (looking at Steve's post above, I should lower this to 28-34)
values are per the map in post #43.
I'll keep you guys updated on how it goes, hopefully I'll get my damn exhaust soon too
There is a pin on the ECU that you can wire the AC condenser fan to come on based off the Microtech just like the main fan. It should be called out on the last page of your instructions packet.
I actually have my fans both wired to come on with the ignition and run non-stop. A little worse for alternator load, but the improvement in cooling is considerable.
I actually have my fans both wired to come on with the ignition and run non-stop. A little worse for alternator load, but the improvement in cooling is considerable.
Steve, speaking of AC, in your travels have you run into strange AC behaviour in relation to the microtech??
Get this...my AC will be working fine...perfectly fine....then, i goto the track and swap a few parts around (don't touch any wires, double check to make sure everything is fine...) and the air con stops working.
Solution at this stage is a full standard ecu restart (unplug standard ECU for 3 hours and wait....plug it back in...battery unplugged doesn't do enough to fix it)......got NO IDEA whats going on with it.... probably just some strange J48 wiring gremlin.....but i think it might be air temp sensor related...this ringing any bells?
Get this...my AC will be working fine...perfectly fine....then, i goto the track and swap a few parts around (don't touch any wires, double check to make sure everything is fine...) and the air con stops working.
Solution at this stage is a full standard ecu restart (unplug standard ECU for 3 hours and wait....plug it back in...battery unplugged doesn't do enough to fix it)......got NO IDEA whats going on with it.... probably just some strange J48 wiring gremlin.....but i think it might be air temp sensor related...this ringing any bells?
haven't really heard of much in the way of AC problems before. Have you checked that clutch wire etc to make sure that is all intact?
If you go on protege5.ugly.net and look at the manual there is a page in the control systems section that shows the relation chart and it'll show you which sensors etc effect the AC. If anything I believe the TPS may be your culprit.
If you go on protege5.ugly.net and look at the manual there is a page in the control systems section that shows the relation chart and it'll show you which sensors etc effect the AC. If anything I believe the TPS may be your culprit.
