2013~2016: Knock noise from CX-5 front


That's just pulling in the tire back and forth on the ground. I know that's not replicating the knocking sound by going over a speed bump. But that's one noise I hear.
 
Yes it's the quick struts. Both times (rock auto). They come as one piece. But yes.
I'm just running out of options. Everything that connects to each other, is tight.

Top 3 bolts to strut tight.
Below that, the 2 lower bolts to strut.
The sway bar links, and bushings.
The inner and outer tie rods.
Then the ball joints.
Even brand new tires from Sam's.
And the knock is still there.


Sorry forgot to post.
187k
2014 CX-5 GT
This should help:

TSB No.: 02-002/18 Knocking / Squeaking Noise from Front Shock Absorber, Creaking Noise from Front Lower Arm Bushing
 
Both lower control arms replaced and coil protectors installed. No difference, knock still there.
Had the car on a lift, I was turning the steering while my friend was under listening, yanking on the wheels in all ways. Started car, put in drive, break, gas etc etc on/off and no knock.

Still a mystery.

I can reproduce it just going down a smooth road not even sure over 5mph swerving back/forth and it makes the sound.
 
I have a knock from what seems to be the front drivers side at slow speeds when going over bumps. It's sporadic. I replaced the control arms that included ball joints and bushings. Also replaced the front struts. No movement to the steering wheel or vibration just the noise. Tires are wearing even. It's been to two mechanics that haven't been able to track down the issue. Any ideas?
Before firing the "parts cannon" at the car and changing anything, check the tightness of the support
brace that is attached on the upper inside of the strut towers tight against the firewall. There should
be two bolts per side. I had a terrible knock coming from underfoot on the drivers side as well as a minor thump from the rear. I found these bolts loose on my 2018 CX 5 and secured them tight.
All noises disappeared. Unfortunately I did not have the factory torque spec so I tightened them to
50 ft-lb with red Loctite on the threads. It appears the strut towers can flex in and out slightly under
suspension load and cause body flex. The noise telescopes through the uni-body. If these bolts are really loose the car will require endless steering correction on the highway, bump steer, and make a loud snap or thump with the wheels slightly off-centre going over speedbumps, potholes and the apron from the road to the driveway. If this is not your issue let me know and I'll give you the complete "flowchart" procedure to find the noise. I never found any DIY'er on YouTube who knew there arse from a hole in the ground on proper diagnostics and ended spending a fortune on unneeded parts in shear desperation.
 
Before firing the "parts cannon" at the car and changing anything, check the tightness of the support
brace that is attached on the upper inside of the strut towers tight against the firewall. There should
be two bolts per side. I had a terrible knock coming from underfoot on the drivers side as well as a minor thump from the rear. I found these bolts loose on my 2018 CX 5 and secured them tight.
All noises disappeared. Unfortunately I did not have the factory torque spec so I tightened them to
50 ft-lb with red Loctite on the threads. It appears the strut towers can flex in and out slightly under
suspension load and cause body flex. The noise telescopes through the uni-body. If these bolts are really loose the car will require endless steering correction on the highway, bump steer, and make a loud snap or thump with the wheels slightly off-centre going over speedbumps, potholes and the apron from the road to the driveway. If this is not your issue let me know and I'll give you the complete "flowchart" procedure to find the noise. I never found any DIY'er on YouTube who knew there arse from a hole in the ground on proper diagnostics and ended spending a fortune on unneeded parts in shear desperation.
Is there any repair that would necessitate someone loosening them?
 
Is there any repair that would necessitate someone loosening them?
They naturally come loose from body flex, suspension action and time. Threads stretch under continual strain and once loose they literally unthread themselves.
 
... I found these bolts loose on my 2018 CX 5 and secured them tight. ...
Hi Logidad and welcome to the forum 👋 . I was curious, around how deep into ownership did these bolts loosen up on your vehicle? Do you have rough roads (in whatever part of the world you're from)? Would you guess the bolts were just loose from the factory or loosened over time?

... If this is not your issue let me know and I'll give you the complete "flowchart" procedure to find the noise. ...

Great! I'd love a flowchart for finding odd noises. They're always so difficult to track down. Post it up 👍😁
 
Before firing the "parts cannon" at the car and changing anything, check the tightness of the support
brace that is attached on the upper inside of the strut towers tight against the firewall. There should
be two bolts per side. I had a terrible knock coming from underfoot on the drivers side as well as a minor thump from the rear. I found these bolts loose on my 2018 CX 5 and secured them tight.
All noises disappeared. Unfortunately I did not have the factory torque spec so I tightened them to
50 ft-lb with red Loctite on the threads. It appears the strut towers can flex in and out slightly under
suspension load and cause body flex. The noise telescopes through the uni-body. If these bolts are really loose the car will require endless steering correction on the highway, bump steer, and make a loud snap or thump with the wheels slightly off-centre going over speedbumps, potholes and the apron from the road to the driveway. If this is not your issue let me know and I'll give you the complete "flowchart" procedure to find the noise. I never found any DIY'er on YouTube who knew there arse from a hole in the ground on proper diagnostics and ended spending a fortune on unneeded parts in shear desperation.
Which nut are you talking about? There are three nuts on the upper inside of the strut tower? If you could share a picture that will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 
Mine is fixed. It was the sway bars. The tech said when he grabbed them he could feel they were loose. I know when I had it in the air I checked them and don't recall them moving. I'm wondering if when there was no weight on the wheels and just hanging they were solid, but if you jack up the wheel too to mimic being on the ground maybe they then would shake.

Either way, knocking noise gone.
Thanks for all those that have helped in this thread with suggestions. I hope to get many more years and miles out of it.
 
Yes, sway bars and sway bar links can only be assessed loaded at ride height.
 
Engine mount on passenger side is good. I've been debating between a tranny mount or wheel bearing. But neither has any symptom beyond the noise. The noise is definitely from outside the car.
I have this same issue with my car a 2013 Mazda cx 5. I have had the struts, sway bar and tie rods replaced and it still makes the freaking noise!! It's driving me crazy! I heard something about having to get certain suspension parts greased every now and then...maybe that's all it is..anyone else know anything about doing that with Mazdas?
 
Rubber bushings are typically not greased; that usually only applies to polyurethane.
 
I have this same issue with my car a 2013 Mazda cx 5. I have had the struts, sway bar and tie rods replaced and it still makes the freaking noise!!
Does the sound appear to come from up near chest level or from down below?
 
I'm still having the noise. I replaced everything and I really don't want to give up. I know it's something easy. It has to be.

"I will find you" - Liam Neeson

I've replaced the struts, inner and outer tie rods, sway bar bushings, sway bar links, axles, lower control arms, rotors and pads, all motor mounts.

And it's getting worse, I feel like.

Only thing I haven't tried is "check the tightness of the support
brace that is attached on the upper inside of the strut towers tight against the firewall.", like LOGIDAD suggested.


And I installed the sway bar bushings with the wheels in the air, so maybe I'll put the tires with a load and check the torque like CRZYFST suggested as well.


I have a video, idk if y'alls sound like this.

It's driving me nuts. I have 189k on a 2014 Mazda CX5 GT.
 

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I have a knock from what seems to be the front drivers side at slow speeds when going over bumps. It's sporadic. I replaced the control arms that included ball joints and bushings. Also replaced the front struts. No movement to the steering wheel or vibration just the noise. Tires are wearing even. It's been to two mechanics that haven't been able to track down the issue. Any ideas?
Before you fire the parts cannon at the car again you need to check a couple items. If there is a cross brace spanning between the strut towers nearly against the firewall, check the 4 retaining bolts for tightness - these can come loose due to tower flex from going over bumps. I had this issue and tightening the bolts cured the issue. I could not find a torque spec for these bolts. Beneath the car, just behind the engine, is a cross-member. Manual refers to this spot as a jacking point.There is a large bolt head right dead center. Re-torque this bolt to factory spec ( it has the rear engine mount attached above it).
 
And I installed the sway bar bushings with the wheels in the air, so maybe I'll put the tires with a load and check the torque like CRZYFST suggested as well.
How does one do that and still get access to all the bolts needed. Ramps? But can you still get to where you need to with the tires on? Making me think I should re-check mine.
 
How does one do that and still get access to all the bolts needed. Ramps? But can you still get to where you need to with the tires on? Making me think I should re-check mine.
Well you can take off the tires or not while installing the sway bar bushings. But taking off the tires would be easier. Just jack it up high and put jack stand under the sub frame.
The bolts to the sway bar bushings are on top of the sub frame. 2 bolts. It's a tight area but doable.
 

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